Paulpoke Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 In the F150 2011 ecoboost, is the factory oil conventional, semi syn, or full synthetic? and any suggestions on the first oil change? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 In the F150 2011 ecoboost, is the factory oil conventional, semi syn, or full synthetic? and any suggestions on the first oil change? 5W-30 synthetic blend. Onboard computer tells you when to change it - somewhere between 6 months/5K miles and 1 yr/10K miles. No need to do any type of early change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulpoke Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 5W-30 synthetic blend. Onboard computer tells you when to change it - somewhere between 6 months/5K miles and 1 yr/10K miles. No need to do any type of early change. Is the onboard computer just a mileage or time since last change meter or some sort of actual wear/breakdown measuring device? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulpoke Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 (edited) I guess what I'm asking is with the ecoboost turbos is a sythetic recommended? I remember back in the 80's when GM was turbo-ing all those cars and all you heard about was the turbos frying due to excessive heat. I realize the ecoboost is a different setup in regards to cooling and has been extensively tested, but I just don't want any maintenance issues or unnecessary repairs. I've always run Mobil 1 in my current 01' supercrew that has slightly over 235,000 miles and has never had any work done with the exception of normal maintenance/wear items. (it's for sale now by the way...) I've ordered the ecoboost in the new truck and just want to "do it right" as I tend to keep my vehicles for about 10 years before replacing. I tend to stick to the owners manual regarding these items but any suggestions regarding maintenance is appreciated. did I mention we like to tailgate? Edited March 29, 2011 by Paulpoke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUCKRACER Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 I guess what I'm asking is with the ecoboost turbos is a sythetic recommended? I remember back in the 80's when GM was turbo-ing all those cars and all you heard about was the turbos frying due to excessive heat. I realize the ecoboost is a different setup in regards to cooling and has been extensively tested, but I just don't want any maintenance issues or unnecessary repairs. I've always run Mobil 1 in my current 01' supercrew that has slightly over 235,000 miles and has never had any work done with the exception of normal maintenance/wear items. (it's for sale now by the way...) I've ordered the ecoboost in the new truck and just want to "do it right" as I tend to keep my vehicles for about 10 years before replacing. I tend to stick to the owners manual regarding these items but any suggestions regarding maintenance is appreciated. did I mention we like to tailgate? The only thing I wiold add is that I will take my vehicle to the dealer for scheduled maintenance untill the warranty is up, then go whatever way you think is best. That way the dealer can't deny warranty repair because you took it to jiffy lube during the warranty period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Is the onboard computer just a mileage or time since last change meter or some sort of actual wear/breakdown measuring device? It's in between - it uses an algorithm based on how the engine operates (rpm, idle time, heat, etc.) and other factors (ambient temp?) to determine oil life. It doesn't actually measure the oil but it's a lot better than just a counter. I guess what I'm asking is with the ecoboost turbos is a sythetic recommended? I remember back in the 80's when GM was turbo-ing all those cars and all you heard about was the turbos frying due to excessive heat. I realize the ecoboost is a different setup in regards to cooling and has been extensively tested, but I just don't want any maintenance issues or unnecessary repairs. Paul - Ford uses Motorcraft synthetic blend 5W-30. That is what is recommended and that's what they've tested for. You could go to a full synthetic 5W-30 (motorcraft makes one) but Ford doesn't think it's necessary. It is, however, up to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesxpress Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 The only thing I wiold add is that I will take my vehicle to the dealer for scheduled maintenance untill the warranty is up, then go whatever way you think is best. That way the dealer can't deny warranty repair because you took it to jiffy lube during the warranty period. Your kidding right???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Your kidding right???? He meant "if you have a lubrication related failure and you had been taking it to Jiffy Lube". If the dealer had been doing the oil changes then it would be less likely the warranty claim is denied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUCKRACER Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 He meant "if you have a lubrication related failure and you had been taking it to Jiffy Lube". If the dealer had been doing the oil changes then it would be less likely the warranty claim is denied. Thanks akirby. That is exactly what I meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67Goat Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 In the F150 2011 ecoboost, is the factory oil conventional, semi syn, or full synthetic? and any suggestions on the first oil change? My EB is on order and I've been thinking about my first oil change. I'm thinking of using full synthetic. Probably Pennzoil Platinum because the MC full Syn seems hard to find. I'll probably change it at 1000 miles to get any machining debris out of the motor. I don't think the new Motorcraft filter is readily available yet either (FL2055 I think). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 My EB is on order and I've been thinking about my first oil change. I'm thinking of using full synthetic. Probably Pennzoil Platinum because the MC full Syn seems hard to find. I'll probably change it at 1000 miles to get any machining debris out of the motor. I don't think the new Motorcraft filter is readily available yet either (FL2055 I think). There is no "machining debris" the way engines are assembled these days. But if there was, wouldn't it make more sense to change it IMMEDIATELY rather than give it 1000 miles to wear on the engine? Total urban myth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bb37 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 I agree about the "machining debris". I think these engines are pretty well flushed before assembly. If there was any trash in the engine, it would show up quickly the first time the engine was started. Having said that, I do think some initial wear on rings and bearings occurs in the first few hours of engine operation. These parts have to get "friendly" with each other and may shed some fine particles. I don't see a down side to making the first oil change a bit shorter than the recommended interval. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djansma Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 I still will change my first oil change early Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilmo Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 (edited) I will also change oil earlier than normal. Probably at 3000 miles, then 6000 miles and 10000miles. From there, every 5000 miles with regular tire rotation. Edited April 10, 2011 by ilmo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydro Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 I will also change oil earlier than normal. Probably at 3000 miles, then 6000 miles and 10000miles. From there, every 5000 miles with regular tire rotation. Sounds like my schedule. Changing the oil early doesn't break the bank and it's cheap insurance (even if it's to make me feel better). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobrajim Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 also try to use a motorcraft filter as in the prev years have had non oem filters comming apart and clogging oil galleries. :reading: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sun-prairie Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 I'm going to ask my dealer to throw in a half dozen of the Motorcraft filters when I take delivery on my new EB (if it ever arrives). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p38fln Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 If you ordered the Ecoboost, be aware that many dealers don't have a very large stock of the FL-2055 oil filters so you may not be able to get any added at all. You will get a maintenance supplement with your owner's manual that shows using the FL-2055 filter instead of whatever is says in the manual. It's a slightly larger filter that holds 0.2 quarts more than the original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzPlatinumEB Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 If you ordered the Ecoboost, be aware that many dealers don't have a very large stock of the FL-2055 oil filters so you may not be able to get any added at all. You will get a maintenance supplement with your owner's manual that shows using the FL-2055 filter instead of whatever is says in the manual. It's a slightly larger filter that holds 0.2 quarts more than the original. My dealer parts guy didnt even KNOW about the FL2055....none in stock, but after I advised him about change notice, he ordered some right in to keep in stock....am getting my 1K change done this week to get the new filter on....then will wait until "father Ford" tells me a change is due.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobrajim Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 on a side note if any engineering staff are on here will these new engines require 10w40 in summer like the out going 5.4l engines for phazer "rattle"concerns? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndeerefarmer Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 There is no "machining debris" the way engines are assembled these days. But if there was, wouldn't it make more sense to change it IMMEDIATELY rather than give it 1000 miles to wear on the engine? Total urban myth. I disagree. My tractors have magnets on the drain plug and you would be suprised at the amount of metal shavings on them. A Ford engine is no different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zydico Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I don't think this has been asked in this thread so I'm going to ask. Does anyone know how accurate the F150 is on judging when the oil needs to be changed rather than changing on a set mileage interval? I've only ever driven vehicles with set intervals and no oil intelligence so I'm not familiar withhow this new oil monitoring technology makes the decision of when to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 (edited) I am not a great believer in a 7k or 10k oil change. Every new car i buy get's fresh oil-filter after no more then 2000 km which i do myself. Then every 5000 km. I have seen metal shavings . And that is all i need to know, to discard claims of " no earlier then recommended oil changes needed". The FIRST oil change is the most important one in ANY oil lubricated engine. Heck... i changed the oil in my new 80 GAL air compressor after the first 10 hours. Edited May 16, 2011 by Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 I disagree. My tractors have magnets on the drain plug and you would be suprised at the amount of metal shavings on them. A Ford engine is no different. Modern car engines are totally different than car engines 30 years ago and I'd bet your tractor is closer to a 30 yr old car engine than a modern one. Today's tolerances are small and the materials are different. They no longer even use a special break-in oil. Why would Ford NOT recommend an early oil change if it was necessary? Doesn't make sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndeerefarmer Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Modern car engines are totally different than car engines 30 years ago and I'd bet your tractor is closer to a 30 yr old car engine than a modern one. Today's tolerances are small and the materials are different. They no longer even use a special break-in oil. Why would Ford NOT recommend an early oil change if it was necessary? Doesn't make sense. Probably because it's too much trouble for the average guy. Heck the average guy doesn't even change his oil any more he takes it to some shop and lets some kid put some bulk oil in it. I don't care how close you machine it, there are still going to be metal shavings as parts wear. The filter and or drain plug magnet if it has one should catch it but for $7 or $8, me and a lot others would rather change it early and be on the safe side. You are behind on the times. Tractor engines (at least John Deere and Case-IH) are as high tech as any automobile engine out there. From Bosch high pressure fuel pumps, variable vane turbos, to EGR and urea injection. My Deere's have 3 on board computers to run everything. I would bet that Deere's specs are better than Ford as far as machining tolerances go. I think the difference is that tractors are made for heavy work from day one. A farmer can't afford to buy a tractor and take it easy for hours as it breaks in. He bought it to work and he needs it to work now, (not the equivalent of 1000 miles) later. Deere puts break in oil in them and they expect you to work it hard and then change oil and filter at 100 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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