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Oh, i thought you had a 2011 instead of a 2010 - that bulletin refers to problems that occur when the AC is running. Gets more complicated than that, but that's the basics of it.

I had a 4.0 FX4 - It never got over 17 MPG and sounded like it was ready to take off at 70. 4.10 gears

4.0 L gets about 16.5 - 17 MPG on the interstate, never really bothered to calculate in town

The TSB's is for 2011 model trucks for a bad front pump, and it was a fairly limited number of them that had the issue

There have been some issues with ground wires being loose on some of them from reading other forums. Hopefully you can reproduce the issue, take it to the dealer they will fix it if it can be reproduced.

If you have a 2011, you were definitely right the first time - 70% is 70% of life remaining, not 30%. You have to push and HOLD to perform the reset, just selecting it won't change anything. Ford only has one set of oil change intervals for the F-150, and they are the same in both the USA and Canada - it's up to 10,000 miles (or the metric equivalent) or 12 months as indicated by the IOLM display. PLENTY of dealers are finding any excuse in the world to have you come in sooner since 95% of drivers aren't going to make the indicator trip before 10,000 miles. The IOLM sensor will reduce the % of oil life based on how you drive the vehicle and the conditions it is driven in - unless you drive it like a madman it won't drop down faster than 1% per 1000 miles. Note that the only condition it can't sense is excessive dust - driving extensively on dirt roads is the example in the manual. If you do that, then the oil change interval is every 5,000 miles or 6 months. I would like to point out that finding a dusty dirt road in the winter time is just about impossible since snow "dust" evaporates.

There are two circumstances where the OM says to not use the IOLM - 1. If the IOLM is accidentally reset (In which case, change oil at 7,500 miles) 2. Operating PRIMARILY in dusty conditions such as unpaved roads (Change oil at 5,000 miles) For all other driving styles (including patrol car use and extensive idling) follow the IOLM. Your dealer will try to twist the wording to convince you that you're in a dusty area (since extensive idling is no longer a reason for ignoring the meter). My favorite was the local dealer's "The salt on the road makes dust when it dries." Yeah, not every day of the year though, and certainly not more than 50% of the time I'm driving the truck.

Seems to take between 3 to 6 weeks

From what I read elsewhere, they were hitting 12 inch "speed bumps" at high speeds (above 50 MPH) - I view stunts like that as driver error.

Just cut the whole back of the F series cab off to get a similar effect with less headroom - Paccar does it with their "T" series KW's and almost all of their Peterbilts for accessing the sleeper compartment.

I don't know of anyone that has one, but it has over 300 horsepower, although they're WAY up in the upper band of the tachometer. It will get most pickup chores done reasonably well and still tow a small boat on the weekend.

Experiment with different fuel grades if you can - that's been a common question on the Ecoboosts. I enjoyed how it ran on premium so much that I've only filled it with 87 once since then.

Cool - so what did you order?

It's a $250-$300 option if it's part of the truck already - it's $1,000 or more to add after the fact.

I have the 3.73 E-locking rear differential - The differential itself is an open diff unless you pull the knob out and lock the rear axle, and then it's a locked diff. No limited slip or anything at any other time. The traction control is incredible - I've spun gravel from both rear tires on a gravel road even with the open diff, and pulled through some snow that would normally stop a vehicle in 2WD in its tracks. There are 3 traction control modes - Traction Control - this is just the accelerator limiter, press TC button to turn off AdvanceTrac - This is the stability control, hold TC button for 5 seconds to turn off. * All TC turns back on at 35 MPH, or stays off permanently in 4-LO One-Wheel Slip control - This makes the open diff behave as a limited slip diff. Can not be turned off.

Have the dealer try unplugging the EPAS system power, then you drive it around the block once or twice without power steering and see if the problem goes away.

government mandated cutoffs usually happen on January 1st - and it would mean anything not built by January 1st, can't be built

If you ordered the Ecoboost, be aware that many dealers don't have a very large stock of the FL-2055 oil filters so you may not be able to get any added at all. You will get a maintenance supplement with your owner's manual that shows using the FL-2055 filter instead of whatever is says in the manual. It's a slightly larger filter that holds 0.2 quarts more than the original.

Why did you fill the box?

The thing is if you TOW with the eco boost, you might only have 260-300 miles between fillups depending on your trailer design.

My other favorite hidden feature - 1. Turn truck off 2. Press and hold "OK" (this is for 4.2" LCD's, theres a similar button on the base cluster) 3. Turn truck on, keep holding "OK" 4. IPC enters engineering mode - ENGINEERING MODE displayed on 4.2" LCD 5. Press OK to cycle through tests

At the dealer I bought my truck at, none of the sales staff have a computer - EVERYTHING is hand written. In this backwards city in the middle of nowhere, that's probably the best way to get a sale made.

No idea on the bumper - it looks like there's also a difference in the steering, max tow is 20:1 and everything else is 17:1. I dont knwo why that matters with power steering..

Rebates for the XLT model briefly hit $5,250 at the beginning of March if you didn't use Ford credit and got the $750 coupon. They only lasted about a week. I bought a 1999 Toyota in 2004 after hearing for years how great they are - also, my dad made me (Helped with the downpayment). Anyway, it did break les "convenience" options than the rebuilt/salvage title Chevy lumina I had been driving - but it broke more things that I considered important! Yes, the Toyota kept its power windows working the entire time I had it. The Chevy would break them on a yearly basis. The Chevy never had a steering issue! The Toyota had a failed U-joint in the steering column that almost made it impossible to turn... I'd rather have a broken power window motor than a broken steering column.

The relay is for the auxilliary battery circuit for the trailer - supposed to be for charging the breakaway battery and interior lights. You can pull the trailer and still have brakes without attaching the relay. Don't attach the relay until you plan on towing since it will energize the circuit and that seems to make the connector start to corrode much faster.