Anybody change the oil themselves on a 2.0?

[Bearcats98]

I will be tackling this in the next day or two and wonder if there are any tricks. Been changing oil in my own car since 1990 so I got the basics. Anything special with avoiding under engine shields or other nifty tips that will make life easier? Anybody know what the torque spec on the drain bolt is and if it requires a new crush washer?

I plan on getting Motorcraft FL-910 and Motorcraft semi-syn 5W-30.

Per the parts stores looks to be a can filter (not cartridge) and we need 5.7 quarts and I read up on the oil life reset feature which in terms of doing a dance is pretty weird to reset a sensor, but such is life.

 

Oh and I do have a strap wrench as the factory oil filter is usually put on by the biggest, strongest gorilla in the shop with bets as to how long it takes the end user to get it back off.

Edited August 5, 2013 by Bearcats98

[HenryVIII]

RRF985 has a few times and did it himself.

 

Hope this can help.

 

http://2gfusions.com/index.php/topic,960.0.html

Edited August 5, 2013 by HenryVIII

[Guest RRF985]

Here's some notes for you that I learned as I did my oil change:

 

-Your strap filter wrench most likely will not work. The oil filter is mounted vertically in an extremely tight space. I ended up using this: Lisle Oil Filter Tool

 

-You will need a T30 Torx for the underpan; there are a million of the screws, and two pop-out tabs that I used a flathead on.

 

-I used a total of 5 quarts for the oil change. The reading was at the full mark so IMO there is no need to add 0.7 quarts additionally.

 

-As far as the drain plug, I have always just gone by snug but not super tight. I have also always replaced the crush washer each time. However, for my oil change, I used an oil extractor. Less mess that way.

 

Not sure how many miles are on your oil but I will say that mine looked disgusting with only 2,700 miles on the oil. And that wasn't even the original oil.

 

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Edited August 6, 2013 by RRF985

[Bearcats98]

Hmmm, OK..maybe this will wait until the weekend so I can give it a good look over.

 

Not thrilled about the strap wrench news. I hate buying a new tool to use once....

 

Oil has 24xx miles. I usually change it earlier on a new motor but man, life gets in the way sometimes.

[akirby]

I don't remember a crush washer on the drain plug on any of my vehicles (2006/2013 Fusion, 2012 Focus, 2008 Edge). If there is one I've been reusing it with no leaks for years. Or not using one. And I've done all the oil changes myself.

 

I ended up making my own strap wrench to get the factory filter off. I twisted a nylon strap around a basin wrench - worked great.

 

I did a full flush and refill with 5W-20 before putting in the 5W-30. You'd think I would have read the oil cap when I took it off. In a non turbo engine I wouldn't have worried about it but I figure there is a reason they don't recommend 5W-20.

 

On the 5 quarts being full - does that include pre-filling the oil filter? If not you should check the level after running the engine and letting it cool down. You may be half a quart low after the oil filter fills up.

[akirby]

Hmmm, OK..maybe this will wait until the weekend so I can give it a good look over. Not thrilled about the strap wrench news. I hate buying a new tool to use once.... Oil has 24xx miles. I usually change it earlier on a new motor but man, life gets in the way sometimes.

 

This is the type of strap wrench you need (or the socket that fits on the bottom of the filter) (I made my own version):

 

[Guest RRF985]

On the 5 quarts being full - does that include pre-filling the oil filter?

 

Yes.

[Bearcats98]

That's why I love vertical filters. You can pre-fill those babies and eliminate just that much more "dry time".

 

I am going to Meijer today for materials and Ill be doing this this weekend so I can take my time. Did Ford put access panels in the shield or do you have to pull it every time you do a change?

 

Looks like using all Motorcraft parts (semi-syn and filter) it going to cost me 22 bucks...LOL!

Edited August 6, 2013 by Bearcats98

[Guest RRF985]

That's why I love vertical filters. You can pre-fill those babies and eliminate just that much more "dry time".

 

I am going to Meijer today for materials and Ill be doing this this weekend so I can take my time. Did Ford put access panels in the shield or do you have to pull it every time you do a change?

 

Looks like using all Motorcraft parts (semi-syn and filter) it going to cost me 22 bucks...LOL!

 

Solid underbody panel. Has to be pulled every time.

 

You can do full syn for the same price. I'd get different oil.

[Camride]

I've done mine once and as I have never needed a filter wrench/strap I had a hell of a time getting the stock filter off. I ended up doing the screwdriver trick and even with that it took forever since there is no room. I always do my own oil changes so I won't ever have to worry about that again, but it was pretty frustrating at the time.

 

I plan on going about 10k miles between oil changes. I've done that with good oil on all my cars and have never had an issue.

[Bearcats98]

So I am comparing filters for the Fusion and came across another Motorcraft filter that should fit. However I am confused at the filtration specification. Also curious about the PSI relief being lower. Maybe to prevent oil starvation at the Turbo?

 

FL910S

Thread Inside Diameter (in.): 3/4"-16

Outside Diameter Top (in.): 3.15"

Outside Diameter Bottom (in.): 3.15"

Length (in.): 3.36"

Spin-On Filter: Yes

Bypass Valve: YES

Color: White

Burst Pressure (PSI): 250 PSI

Pressure Relief Valve: YES

PSI Relief: 14.5 PSI

Micron Rating: 50%@35um

Height (in.): 3.36"

Seal Outside Diameter (in.): 2.75"

Seal Inside Diameter (in.): 2.40"

Anti-drainback Valve: YES

 

 

FL400S

Thread Inside Diameter (in.): 3/4"-16

Outside Diameter Top (in.): 2.98"

Outside Diameter Bottom (in.): 2.98"

Length (in.): 4.14"

Spin-On Filter: Yes

Bypass Valve: YES

Color: White

Burst Pressure (PSI): 250 psi

Pressure Relief Valve: YES

PSI Relief: 20 PSI

Micron Rating: 80%@20um

Height (in.): 4.14"

Seal Outside Diameter (in.): 2.75"

Seal Inside Diameter (in.): 2.40"

Anti-drainback Valve: YES

Edited August 8, 2013 by Bearcats98

[Bearcats98]

Ok she is draining right now. With the pre-information its been quite a painless process.

Going with Penz Plat 5W-30 and Motorcraft FL910S. I have 6.1 quarts purchased just in case.

Some thanks:

 

To RRF985 for the T30 requirement. One saved trip there!

To akirby for the notification that a strap wrench WON'T fit (boy is he right). So another saved trip there.

I combined my trips and bought all my stuff at once. I used an AdvanceAutoNylon strap wrench like akirby described. Worked like a peach and worth the 6.99 plus tax.

 

Concern: After pulling the undershield I saw leaking oil at the drain bolt and some air smearing along the pan. However there was nothing on the undershield itself which has me puzzled. That drain bolt was on super snug (no way torqued to spec, way OVER torqued). So not for sure the origin of the leak. There was oil on the bolt head and I did the paper towel technique and did not see anything above the bolt. I think I just might get a new drain bolt from Ford.

 

EDIT: Further inspection shows no crush washer. I am buying a new one in a few hours and will compare.

 

EDIT2: No crush washer on new one either. Its a rubber gasket built into the bolt itself. The old one was like it but the new one had some "rise" to the gasket where the old one seemed to be below the surface.

Torque by Ford Service bay is 25 Ft/lb for oil drain bolt.

Edited August 10, 2013 by Bearcats98

[Bearcats98]

Two other things of note:

 

1) My Feb/2013 build does not use the two pedal oil life reset method. Its just a setting under Settings in the left hand display. So thats a bit weird.

2) I for sure needed an additional 1/2 quart to get the oil level to the top of the dipstick measurement. I was filling little bits after I put my 5.1 jug in (I also prefilled my filter too). So after a mini fill, quick drive around the block and let is set for 40 minutes or so, I have determined on this fill for my car I needed 5.6 quarts to fill it back up.

[Guest RRF985]

Two other things of note:

 

1) My Feb/2013 build does not use the two pedal oil life reset method. Its just a setting under Settings in the left hand display. So thats a bit weird.

 

I spent probably 10 minutes trying to reset mine with the pedal method before I though "I wonder..." And then found it in the menus. I was only a little angry.

 

2) I for sure needed an additional 1/2 quart to get the oil level to the top of the dipstick measurement. I was filling little bits after I put my 5.1 jug in (I also prefilled my filter too). So after a mini fill, quick drive around the block and let is set for 40 minutes or so, I have determined on this fill for my car I needed 5.6 quarts to fill it back up.

 

 

Perhaps I will find a more level surface and check again.

[TurboTi]

Did mine. Used the factory 910 filter, my local parts store had it behind the counter. "Synthetic" Mobil 1 of the recommended viscosity. For those of you that don't care you can toss the under engine bay cover, but I'll be using it, I just love the way this thing coasts. I did all the full service inspections as recommended in the manual, and signed it off myself. I like doing it myself, that way I know it's done right, I am automatically skeptical of any work done by a dealer. I had a metal loop wrench of the right size that worked, it is tight in there. Only issue I noticed was a little oil mist on the ends of the steering rack, but no drips.

 

Pretty much easy peasy, just take your time and look at everything. I went almost 10k miles on the oil that came with the car, so I am trusting Ford that they know what they're talking about in the manual. On my Mustang I change by color, so it doesn't stay in that long.

[Bearcats98]

I would never recommend "tossing" the under cover. The nice thing about that cover is it seems to be made of the same material that the fender wells covers are made of.

 

And at the risk of starting an oil war conversation oil color short of mechanical problem indication (milky due to coolant contamination..etc) means nothing. Just because its golden doesnt mean there is enough TBN and just because its dark doesnt mean it doesnt have enough.

[HenryVIII]

I would never recommend "tossing" the under cover. The nice thing about that cover is it seems to be made of the same material that the fender wells covers are made of.

 

And at the risk of starting an oil war conversation oil color short of mechanical problem indication (milky due to coolant contamination..etc) means nothing. Just because its golden doesnt mean there is enough TBN and just because its dark doesnt mean it doesnt have enough.

 

No. Let's fight about this.

 

 

 

/sarcasm - (for the sarcasm impaired)

[Bearcats98]

As a follow up I would say changing the oil is quite easy. The under tray is much easier to remove than say my 11 Sonata or my 07 Rav. If my arms were about 4" longer I would not even have to jack the car up to do the change. I like that a lot. Not a big fan of the oil filter spilling over the top of the intercooler tubing when you remove it though, but thats being picky.

.
I spent a great amount of time doing the fill to make sure what the capacity was and my drain/filter/fill came out to 5.6 quarts.

 

12 T30 bolts, two square friction snaps and under cover is off.

Drain bolt is 15MM (Make sure you use six sided socket) and the factory torque spec is 25 ft/lb. The factory WAY over tightened mine and actually ruined the bolt gasket. I bought a new one (9L8Z-6730A) and tightened it to factory spec and low and behold, no leak. Amazing how that works.

 

I used a Motorcraft FL901S filter.