YT90SC

Torqshift is assembled at Sharonville. The trans is GREAT. The engine, not so much.

What is wrong with replacing an assembly when the cost to repair it is HIGHER than the cost to replace? I am not sure I understand your arguement.

Clean the aluminum bits out of the steel flutes on the shaft. THAT is what is keeping you from cutting new flutes in the aluminum, and why a new arm will not work. The old arm would work if you would clean the steel flutes and install a washer between the nut and arm. Then you need to be sure that there is not anything holding them down when you use them, I.E. if there is snow, ice or frost. I've never seen one fail without either being mis-installed from a previous service or held down till the motor torque twists the aluminum out.

You forget the "HO" 351 in the f-150. It had a carb. ANd I am pretty sure it was available till the last of the 'flatnoses' in 91. I think there were some straggler econolines too... The thing is that GM held on to Q-jets till the bitter end too... Computer controlled metering jets anyone? Both GM and Ford TBI's could get really great fuel economy, if tuned and setup right. I did and still hate all carbs, with a special place in my dark heart for holleys. And VV's, as someone pointed out.

Mariner weighs more, has a lot worse coeiffcient of drag, is AWD, has larger, heavier tires and the differences between 'Generations' and you should probably actually see MORE loss. Of these, AWD is probably the greatest loss. PCM's are NOT interchangeable. Want more? I am sure that there is someone out there tinkering with programming.

Don't go buy an injector yet. Move the injector and see if the miss follows it. IF it does, then you know it is the injector for sure, instead of jsut throwing parts at it.

REalistically, that is about the average service life you can expect from an E4OD. Any other trans is going to be a hassle to install. Your best bet, as stated is to get an upgraded one. Google BTS transmissions, there is an HD version from Ford and some local shops will offer upgraded trannies as well. Around here, Certified Transmission offers a "Road Ripper" which is an upgraded model. Whatever you do, be sure to replace the OTA cooler (the new stocker is much larger than the one that came in your truck) and flush the other cooler components. Also be sure that you install an inline filter.

First a little history. The 5r55 family started out as the C3/C4. It then became the C5. All were 3 speed automatics. IT then became the A4LD, when they put a center support where the pump used to be and forward of that, an overdrive assembly. A4LD originally had mechanical controls with electronic control of the overdrive and torque convertor clutch. It then got full electronic control with the conversion to the 4R44E. But it was still a 4 speed. It became the 5R when someone figured out that you can use the overdrive portion to overdrive the 4R's first gear to 'split' the ratios. The 5R's control strategy has not always been the same. In some applications it skips second under light load. In others, it shifts through all 5 each time. There are slight differences between the E/W/S/N models. The 5r55 family only has 5 forward ratios. The sixth 'shift' you are feeling is the torque convertor locking up. The trans you are thinking of is the Torqshift, which has 6 forward ratios, but only 5 are usedat any given time depending on temp. 4th is not used unless it is cold and then it skips 5th, iirc.

IT is VERY typical of Rangers but can be reduced. The vertical guide acts like a washer on a long bolt. IF you drop it down the bolt, it will chatter all the way down. The door panel must be removed, and the vertical guide adjsuted so that it keeps nice even pressure on the window through the whole movement, so it is not free to 'washer'down the guide. Remember though, adjustments are only covered for 12 months or 12k miles.

Call it something new, or call it Chevelle. Impala is NOT what this thing should be called. Calling it Caprice is almost as big a mistake as keeping GMC as a core brand...

How much HP are you running with your tuner? MOST Torqshift failures are due to hot tunes and overloading. What exactly was the root failure?

Doesn't anyone see that the owner is simply converting it to a "Back To The Future" hovercar? Step 1. Bend wheels down.... Now for step 2.

Under the left front headlamp, behind the bumper cover. (Bumper has to come off to access)

From your other post: ""I bought a 2005 Focus. I've had a crap load of problems with it, both with the car and the dealership that sold it to me. I used to work at Ford and because of that I ended up buying my Focus. I'm not impressed at all with it or how the dealership was (with warranty problems etc). Because of this bad experience I'm not likely at all to even bother with taking it for a test drive. I agree with the original title of this post... that's it for me. Problems: 1) electrical (warranty) 2) heating (warranty) 3) tires (warranty but told I had to buy new ones which cost quite a bit) 4) moulding (how it was made) 5) antenna snapped off It just keeps adding up... no more for me"" So is it an 05 or an 06? You've posted two different model years... Just curious. You apparently have a 'lemon' and or a really bad dealership. By all means if your car is so terrible, get another. It doesn't change the fact that thousands and thousands of cars have absolutely no problems. My 08 is still ABSOLUTELY perfect at 20k miles. I have several aquaintances with well over 100k with NOTHING more than normal maintainance from virtually all model years. I am truly sorry you have a bad car and a bad dealership experience. Good luck with your Toyota.

Do you get the trailer disconect with the trailer on or without? If it is with it on only, the trailer is at fault. Most likely a ground feedback issue.

NO PLUG

The problem is in what and how the OCS reads, so the automatic PAD works. The OCS bladder is inside the seat bottom. It measures the weight in contact with the seat bottom cushion ONLY. Some previous systems had weight sensors that measured the entire weight of the seat, but people stuff lots of stuff under the seat, which will cause issues and false readings. Your daughter is 5-7, 130? Does she sit upright in the seat, without the back reclined? If she sits reclined or off center, she is not putting enough weight into the seat pad. Let's work it out. Anything that the system doesn't consider 'large' will disable the bag. I forget the trigger weights, but let's say 20% of her weight is distributed off the seat bottom in her legs. Let's lose another another 10-15% for her arms on the armrests. On the low side she's lost 30% of her actual weight to body overhang off of the seat bottom, leaving us near 90 pounds. Remember that loss is the LOW side. An even slightly reclined body will take valuable pounds off the seat bottom and into the back. Too little weight and she's into the weight of what a carseat or even a small child would put into the pad. And in those situations you simply CANNOT deploy the bag. REmember, it is WEIGHT triggered, plain and simple. It simply has no idea that it is not a child or a carseat. She needs to slide the seat as far back as it will go, sit bolt upright and buckle the belt tight. The thing is that if she is that tiny, she probably shouldn't have the bag deploy anyway.

DON"T get a 5.4. Not enough power in a SD and actually will get poorer mileage than the v-10, for most applications. I strongly suggest a gasser though if you are going to do less than 10k a year. Diesels HATE short trips and setting. Don't forget that there are a lot less fuel problems with gas. The current state of diesel fuel is poor at best. Lots of parafin, lots of crap in the fuel, which leads to gelling and plugging of filters. A diesel takes 15 quarts of oil and a pricier filter, as opposed to a gas's 6 or 7. The aforementioned fuel filters MUST be changed every 15k miles. It takes 2 good batteries to start a diesel in the cold and their life is pretty short. Because of the demands on the electrical system, alternators fail pretty regularly. When it's -10 degrees, a gasser will start, BTW. I could go on and on... But if you're dead set on a diesel, in addition to oil leaks already said, check the up pipes to the turbo. They like to leak. (sooty appearance around the upper connections) MAke sure that the exhaust manifolds are not leaking (soot around runners). Since the oil fires the injectors in the 7.3, the oil MUST be changed regularly with good quality oil. If this has not been done, it can lead to injector oil control issues and hard starting, low power and a myriad of other problems. Be sure that the glow plug relay terminals look clean and fresh, not burnt. IF green coolant is used, it MUST have addative added to it per the owner' s manual, the coolant needs to be changed regularly as well, as cavitaton can lead to errosion of the cylinder walls. BE sure that the water pump is not leaking or has any green on it.

Beta, I would strongly suggest the Firestones or Bridgestones over ANY Michelins. Michelin tires USED to be a great tire, now they are mediocre at best, and yet still maintain the better-than-mediocre price. Just because they cost a lot, doesn't mean they are a good tire. Strongly suggest looking at BFG A/T's, ANY Uniroyal and Goodyear Wrangler ATS. The RTS's are hard and don't balance well.

Pump seems cheap actually. Labor for R+R is about 2 hours according to the motor manual. Add diagnosis time, also around 2 hours by the book and probably a fuel filter replacement (about a half hour). Four and a half hours of labor for $308 is pretty good, puts their labor rate about 68-70 an hour, which for my area is really low, dealership or not.

NO. It is absolutely not compatible.

IF it still dies with the throttle open, it is not the IAC. (IDLE AIR CONTROL) Does it have spark till it dies? IS the fuel old? This should be a MAss air car, is it clean? ANY contaminant on the wires will totally screw it up. Clean it with some brake cleaner or electrical parts cleaner when it is cold. Do you have the dist wired correctly for the camshaft you put in? Remember that there are two Ford Firing orders. Double check. MAke sure that the number one plugwire is on the "1" marked tower on the distributor (otherwise fuel timing will be off), and that the timing was set with the SPOUT disconnected. Remember that cylinders 1 though 4 are passenger side and 5-8 are driver's.. have seen a lot of chebby guys make that mistake. I will also admit that I once thought the dist spun backwards from the way it really did... it ran, barely, but stalled easily with little to no turkey shoots...

What does MODE 6 data show for missfire %?

I just bought an 08 Vista Blue on black SE. It rides better and quieter than the previous car AND has ben averaging 34.2 mpg. It quietly, confidently, comfortably and economically gets my wife from point A to point B. Isn't that what this class of car is supposed to do? It isn't as snappy as a 2.3, but she doesn't care. It has all the features that she wants and needs for an hour long commute through the city. Add to that it is FAR better looking than the ugly @$$ 05-07 car, so we bought one. Excellent car.

Somewhere, maybe www.thedieselstop.com there is a fix for this. I've seen it there somewhere.