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Hi 65Fairlane. :D I believe that the 2007 and 2008 mats would probably be the same. Most sellers probably have not updated their databases yet. Have you tried www.weathertech.com, or www.calcarcover.com? They both sell high quality products. Also, you can order a set of carpeted mats directly from your Mercury Dealers Parts Department which are larger, heavier and come embroidered with "Mariner" on the front mats. I bought the Embroidered Carpet Lincoln Accessory mats for my Lincoln MKZ. I am very happy with them. They also have heavy duty vinyl mats available. Off the top of my head, these are just a few places you can check.. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi CarShark. :D No, it is actually a loud tapping/ticking/rattling (pick one or more)) sound from the high pressure fuel injectors. It is considered a problematic NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) issue. GM"s engine designers are in the midst of losing a lot of sleep, as they have discovered, too late, that it is an inherent design defect. In other words, it is not an easily rectifiable defect that can be addressed with a quick fix. It seems at this point it will take a major redesign of the engine's Direct Injection system. So they must now redesign a brand new design...an expensive proposition. By the way, this is widely reported information, not just my personal speculation or a biased opinion. We can only watch and wait.

Hi FordBuyer. :D No, the Edge wheels are aluminum with chrome cladding. Not steel. It is the same story with the chrome clad wheels on the Taurus, MKZ, MKX, Sable, etc., etc. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi rmc523. :D Yes, you are correct. The Mazda 3.7L is a different, Mazda specific engine. It has no particular relationship to the upcoming Ford 3.7L. In fact, for all intents and purposes and for the sake of argument, it has not much more of a relationship to the upcoming Ford 3.7, than a Ford 3.5L does to a GM 3.5L, a Toyota 3.5L, or a Honda 3.5L. The Ford powertrain will be new. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi silvrsvt. :D Yes it was a great deal, even though there was only a $500 Incentive at the time (11/06). I factory ordered mine. It is not fully loaded. We deleted some options. No AWD (the weather is not severe enough where I live to justify the added cost/complexity and lower MPG). No Moonroof (neither my wife nor I care for them). No Audiophile System (Premium System was more than adequate for us). No NAV system (at my age, I enjoy not knowing where I am sometimes). Some added information to my Signature below: 2007 FWD Alloy Clearcoat Metallic Exterior, Light Stone Leather Interior with Dark Ebony Wood Accents. Additional options: HID Headlamps, Chrome 17" wheels, Perforated Leather/Air Conditioned Seats. It is a beautiful car, and we love it! :happy feet: Good luck silvrsvt! :beerchug:

Hi silvrsvt. :D To give you a general idea, I purchased mine 11/06. The MSRP was $31,775, and the A/Z-Plan price was $28,821 (before $500 Incentive). Then you are still eligible for any available cash incentives. Currently (in my area) there are a total of $2,000 in Rebates and Incentives. A $1,500 Cash Incentive or Special Financing Rates (available to Plan and Non-Plan buyers), and a $500 AZ-Plan Cash Incentive (only available to AZ-Plan buyers). Hope this information is helpful. Good luck! :beerchug: PS - You will love the car. We do! :happy feet:

Hi lincoln. :D You may have better luck if you post an X-Plan PIN request int the "Ford X-Plan PIN Requests" forum. That is the forum which most Ford Employees check for X-Plan requests. Click on the "Ford Employee Forum" listing at the top of the forums page. Then click on the "Ford X-Plan PIN Requests" forum listing. Start your own post for a PIN request. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Turbo77. :D If you can find something at Fordvehicles.com that is close, at least we can give you an idea. You don't have to buy it you know! Otherwise, the easiest and quickest way for you to find the approximate "Factory Invoice" price of the vehicle you are looking for is to go to Edmunds.com and work up the price on their online New Vehicle pricing guide. Then add about $300 or so to the "Invoice Price" that they show. We recently discovered that their pricing guidelines are a little low, as they do not include some charges (we believe the FDAF and one or two other small charges). I hate to recommend them now, as I like to quote exact X-Plan prices when possible (which we can do with in-stock vehicles on Fordvehicles.com). It makes for less confusion. But at least Edmunds it will give you a pricing idea within a couple of hundred dollars or so. Let us know how you make out. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Turbo77. :D Your savings will be thousands under MSRP (that is the price on the window sticker). It will be $100-$200 or so below the "Factory Invoice" price. I mention this because many people do not seem to know the difference between the "Window Sticker", and the "Factory Invoice". Then you will take off any available Incentives for even more savings. I have a feeling there is some confusion between your friend and yourself as to what the actual savings is. It is a Pricing Plan which is very hard/impossible to beat on your own, unless you have a family member who is a Ford Employee, or owns a Dealership. As far as pricing, it will work much better if you go to http://www.fordvehicles.com and follow the prompts to "Search Dealer Inventory" for an F-150 in your area that fits your criteria. Then come back and post the Name of the Dealership, the Dealerships ZIP Code (not yours), and the VIN. Also tell us the trim level (XLT, Lariat, etc.) and color. We will then find out the X-Plan price for you , and let you know what Incentives are currently available. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Rob. :D In my experience, using a good fuel injector cleaner (like "Techron", etc) once a year or so won't do you any harm and may help. Using it more often than that will do no good and only waste your money. Once a year at the most. As usual, reading and following the manufacturer's directions is the best bet. In my opinion, oil additives, oil system cleaners, etc, are a waste of money.. Just change your oil at the required intervals, and your engine will love you, and so will your wallet. Don't waste your money on these types of "cleaners". Again, these are my opinions, some will think otherwise, and I respect their right to do with their cars as they wish. Whatever you decide to do, good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Barents. :D The 2008 MKX is already at Dealerships, and I have seen several on the road. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hello again, 89-Pony. :D Let's address your questions (points) one at a time: 1. It is really not a lot heavier than your old LX 5.0 2. The weight distribution on a 2005 GT is listed as 54/46 (f/r), not near 50/50. 3. Traction control will be very helpful in getting going. 4. ABS will be very helpful in winter braking. Your old LX was no where near as bad as 35-40% over the rear. I am very familiar with Mustang GT winter handling (I had 4 Mustang GT's over the years, an '82, 85, '87 and '97), and if I remember correctly, they were in the neighborhood of 56/44 (%F/R). Not a lot different than the new models. That being said, the newer GT's with Traction Control, ABS and dedicated winter tires all around will be much better handling in the snow than your old LX. It won't be an AWD snow mobile, but it will probably get you around sufficiently (except in deep snow). Again, get a narrower than stock snow tire/wheel combo for optimum results. I would highly recommend calling The Tire Rack, explaining what you are looking for and asking them for recommendations. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 89-Pony. :D With Blizzaks all around, you will be able to get to where you want to go...most of the time. You will need to keep a few things in mind though. For example, no matter how you slice it, the Mustang GT is a nose heavy, RWD, high horsepower car, so you will need to drive very carefully. It has a low front end (spoiler) so in snow any higher than 5-6 inches, plan on waiting for the snow plows to come around, or you will be plowing the snow (and damaging your front end) on your own. Wide snow tires are not the prime choice. The wider the tire, the more it will act like a "snowshoe", and not allow the snow tires "sipes" to bite into the snow. You probably should buy a narrower than stock snow tire, with a narrower wheel. Places like The Tire Rack and Discount Tire have winter tire/steel wheel packages for this reason. Visit their online sites for an explanation of proper snow tire sizing. Hills can always be tough, so only you can answer the question of whether the car will be able to handle your areas terrain. If you use some common sense (and by asking these questions, you are), and mount 4 good snow tires, you should be okay for most situations. Good luck with the GT! :beerchug:

Hi sleepguy. :D It is there for just the reasons which "igor" listed in your other post concerning this question. The primary function is to reduce engine noise. It's secondary function is to protect the underside (and therefore the topside also) of the hood from heat. No, it does not "melt when exposed to flames to suppress an engine fire". And regarding your question in the other post about removing it: No, do not remove it. Leave it alone so it can perform as intended. Hope this clears things up for you. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Traveler. :D Your "ideal alternative" has been available since October-November of last year! I have a 2007 MKZ, and the only available engine is the 3.5 Duratec. AWD is an option, and has been since the 2007 introduction. I have FWD, as the weather here in NJ does not justify the added expense and slight mileage penalty of the AWD. But the AWD MKZ is certainly an attractive car for those who need/want AWD. What are you waiting for! Go get one! :happy feet: Good luck, Traveler! :beerchug:

Hi mustang84. :D No 3.5 liter for the Milan in the near future yet. What you heard and read were unsubstantiated rumors and wishful thinking that took on a life of their own. For now, the Milan and Fusion powertrains will remain intertwined. Lincoln (MKZ) will be a step up. My guess is when they make the 3.7 liter an option (or standard) in the MKZ, the 3.5 will become an option in the Milan and Fusion. In this way, the Lincoln models are always a step above. But this is just my "educated guess". Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi mustang84. :D No 3.5 liter for the Milan in the near future yet. What you heard and read were unsubstantiated rumors and wishful thinking that took on a life of their own. For now, the Milan and Fusion powertrains will remain intertwined. Lincoln (MKZ) will be a step up. My guess is when they make the 3.7 liter an option (or standard) in the MKZ, the 3.5 will become an option in the Milan and Fusion. In this way, the Lincoln models are always a step above. But this is just my "educated guess". Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D If you read the entire article, it really is easy to figure out. The model Car and Driver tested and timed at 6.8, 0-60 was a FWD model. The FWD models are quicker. The 0-60 figures (in the low 7's) in other Magazine's for the Taurus were for AWD models, as that is the model Ford was providing for early testing in the Automotive magazines. AWD is slower. Same with the MKZ. Almost all Magazine tests of the MKZ have been AWD models. The model timed in the Yahoo Auto article at 6.8, 0-60 was an AWD model. FWD MKZ's do 0-60 in the 6.3-6.5 second range. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 200SableWagon. :D Yep, that certainly is rather fuzzy. Reading the info you posted for the Taurus and Taurus X, it does sound as though you do get new transmitters that integrate the original factory and new remote system fobs. If that is correct, maybe you will be lucky and they can program all four to operate. The two new fobs with remote start, and the original two without. Then, as you point out, you will have four working fobs. That would make my educated guess incorrect. But, as I said, I would rather be wrong, and have buyers be happy, than be right and have aggravated buyers. Hopefully, someone with a new Taurus and the "Power Code Remote Start" system can chime in and give us the definitive answer. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 2008fordtaurus. :D Yes, I realize that (I have a Lincoln MKZ, and the key and fob are one piece also). It is still considered a key fob. In fact, I believe they call it an "Integrated Key Fob". What I was explaining (in my educated guess) is: 2000SableWagon will get their Taurus X from the factory with a key fob (with a key sticking out of it) that controls the door locks, trunk and panic alarm. The "Power Code Remote Start" system is listed on the Ford website as a Dealer installed option. So, when the Dealer receives the car, they will install the Remote Start System and then 2000Sable will likely be given a second fob which will control the remote start system (and nothing else). They will then have two fobs to use (just like the Freestyle): One (with a key sticking out of it) from the factory for the doors, trunk, panic alarm etc; and one for the remote start system only. Perhaps the second one will not be as "clunky" as the Freestyles, but my guess is it will be separate none the less. It is still two clunky fobs in your pocket (one with a key integrated into it). If I understood correctly, that was 2000Sable's original question and concern. It is highly doubtful that a Dealer installed remote start system will replace the original factory key fob with a brand new, single, integrated one controlling the doors, trunk, panic alarm and remote start. I actually hope I am wrong, for the sake of 2000SableWagon and others who order the Remote Start system. Again, this is only an educated guess. I know it is not the answer 2000Sable was hoping for, but until someone with definitive info, or a Taurus X with the Ford Remote Start system comes along, it's all I got! Good luck. :beerchug: PS - I personally preferred the old key on a ring with a separate remote fob. While it is in my pocket, my other cars separate key and fob on a ring seems to jab me in the tender parts much less often than the new fangled "Integrated Key Fob", which is bulkier and longer. Probably will be more expensive to replace also. What the heck, since everyone else is always complaining, I felt I should find something to bitch about also!

Hi 2000SableWagon. :D I do not know with a 100% certainty. However, since it is listed as a "Dealer Installed" option on the Ford website, my educated guess is that it will be a separate fob. I doubt that you will get a new, single fob replacing the key fob from the factory. I think you will still have two fobs. One for the remoter start, one for the alarm, doors, trunk, etc. Again, just an educated guess here, so I am not swearing by it. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi boegey. :D Well, I can give you some hope and sunshine until someone with specific F-150 expertise jumps in. Yes, there is an adjustment for the parking brake. Unfortunately, I do not know where the adjustment is made specific to the F-150. There is usually an adjustment mechanism on the cable itself somewhere between the parking brake handle and the rear brakes, and another adjustment mechanism at the rear brakes themselves. But it is adjustable, have patience and I'm sure you'll get the details from another forum member soon. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hello Shannon Clark. :D You probably will get a better response in the "X-Plan PIN Requests" forum. Click on the "Ford Employees Forum" at the top of the Forums page, then click on the "X-Plan PIN Requests" forum. Start your own new request post, and voila! Good luck! :beerchug:

Hello again Houston. :mellow: Sorry, but I am not much help as to the location of the resistor on your F-Series. However, again, if your vehicle is still under warranty, I would recommend you take it to the Dealer for warranty service. If your Dealer's Service Department makes you uncomfortable, take it to another Ford Dealer. This way the service will be free, and you will not just be guessing and throwing parts at the problem. Just my opinion. I hope it is nothing serious, and whatever you decide to do, good luck :beerchug:

Hi Houston. :D When that happens (only high fan speed) with a manually operated A/C system, the usual culprit is the resistor for the switch/blower motor. Not sure if it would be the same for an Automatic Temperature Control system. If it is, then the resistor would be a good place to start looking. Like Pioneer said, if it is under warranty take it to the Dealer. If it is not under warranty, I would start with the resistor, unless someone has some more expertise/knowledge. Hope it is nothing serious. Good luck! :beerchug: