Flying68

VIN 1LN6L9NC8L5607808 Thinking only about a 30% chance that it has actually shipped. Thanks in advance.

Same issue I had. Glad someone else noticed that also and I am not just imagining it. I don't think the dealer believed me when I told them after they first arrived last fall.

The only problem I had in the Aviator with the perfect position seat was that it wouldn't go low enough (yes there is a difference in max headroom between the PP seats and base 10 way seats). I didn't have that issue test driving a Navigator. After sitting in the Aviator and driving it a couple of times I was glad I didn't order one before test driving. The seats in my Expedition are less comfortable, but I can get the driving position to where I like it and the massage helps on long trips. Can't wait to drive my Dad's Conti when it arrives to see how the PP seats feel in it.

Explorerforum.com is very active for 5th and 6th gen Explorers and has sub forums for older Rangers and Explorers. I was a regular poster there for 7 years when I had my 2012.

If they can drive in normal hybrid mode, then the batteries themselves are fine as is the charging from the electric motor, otherwise they would be needing to disable the hybrid part or park the vehicles. So my guess is that the issue is either in the inverter from the charge plug or there is an issue with coolant flow during charging. I don't know if these are air or liquid cooled packs.

A 275/65-R18 is an exact replacement for the 285/45-R22. If you go to an even narrower tire you would be 255/70-R18 which is also an exact tire diameter match. You would be getting new wheels anyway, so depending on the wheel width, you should be fine with either of those, just make sure you have the proper load rating.

Some people do want free shit, but others like to look through the brochure to see the actual paint colors and have a handy reference when comparison shopping. It seems like a small cost to have brochures available to customers.

VIN 1LN6L9NC8L5607808 Maybe its ready to ship, maybe not. Thanks for any updates.

You shouldn't need a flash because the tire diameter for 275/65-R18 is the same as the 285/45-R22. There is no possible way for the computers to know the difference in wheel size. The intelligent 4WD can tell the difference if the tire diameter is not the same on all 4 corners because the wheel speed sensors will not match. You only need a flash if moving to a larger or smaller tire diameter.

I am trying to figure out why your payoff amount is $88k when the base price + taxes, fees, and esp - rebate is $100k and $22k down would be $78k. Anyway, good luck, hope whatever you get next works out.

What are the actual miles on the truck. It shows they are charging you for 26,463 miles @ $0.723/mile. That depreciation sounds high especially when compared to the IRS business rate of $0.575/mile (not factoring non-warranty maintenance or fuel costs in that), but I am not familiar with the depreciation rate on commercial trucking. I think you might hit them back with using that number instead. Other than that, you may need to consider taking that offer, walk away and lease a truck until you close escrow. I would try to negotiate further though or contact a lawyer. How much did you owe on your trade in (from my math it appears that it was around $10k or so)? If that is the case you are out of pocket $12k which seems more reasonable on its face given your usage.

The dealer (service advisor) is confusing wheel diameter with tire diameter. What others are saying is true, as long as you keep the same tire diameter the same as the factory spec the only other thing to consider is that the wheel fits over the brakes. I haven't ever heard of needing to reprogram a 4WD system due to tire size, but you would definitely have to have a system flash to account for tires that are bigger or smaller than factory to get the correct speedometer/odometer reading. Assuming it is the same spec as the Expedition (285/45-R22) you could get a 275/65-R18 for winter with no issues. The F-150 rims should work, but you would want to test fit them to check for backspacing. The lug pattern should be the same.

No, boxer engines are just like regular engines, except the cylinders are flat instead of inline or in a V. They still have heads and valves. Boxers are better for air cooled engines because the layout lets you get maximum airflow over each cylinder (aircraft, motorcycles, and old Bugs).

What is it that you are looking for? I has your order number on it, and all the options with pricing. That is pretty much all you get after ordering.

Except if your cruise power draw is dramatically larger than your extenders ability to charge, you don't want to be in the position where you have fuel in the tank of the extender, but not enough juice to go anywhere. You also don't want to have to run the extender all the time in order to achieve full range. Ideally there would be some set point, like 25% to 50% of battery capacity remaining before the extender would kick on and provide charge to the battery before it shuts off. You are probably looking at a 5 gallon tank at the most, so it won't run indefinitely. It becomes an optimization issue, what ICE/Generator combo can provide the most power for smallest weight and give the lowest emissions. Power is precisely what you need. You achieve the best thermal efficiency using a turbo (otherwise the exhaust is wasted energy). Running at a fixed rpm, the turbo can also be optimized. NA engines are not more efficient at equivalent power levels, such as this where the load will not vary and the engine will be running at a fixed rpm. You have to shift your thinking from one of "NA provides a lower power level and forced provides more power" to one of which provides a fixed power level with the greatest efficiency.