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You're probably right, although isn't that what we already have with the Mach E? It's a nice car if that's what someone is wanting, but I'd describe it as basically a BEV CUV.

All wheel drive Lincoln Mustang. Maybe something like a coupe version of an MKZ. Powered by a 3.0, 3.5, or even a V8 engine. Offer a hybrid version maybe with dual electric and gasoline drivetrains. Make it a real Mustang but with the luxury of Lincoln. No less than 450 HP at crank. Active exhaust. Magneride or similar active suspension system.

Hi @bbf2530! So I found out after I sent this that my wife actually really despises this feature. She doesn't like it at all. It hurts her hands, and if the driver alert is enabled that compounds the problem by criticizing her driving. So I've just turned off driver alert on her car, and I'm not going to take it in to Ford because she said she basically never wants the lane keeping system turned on, ever, anyway. I don't see any point in fixing a feature she doesn't want anyway so I'm not going to waste my time. But I do think if this is a problem in 19 and up, Ford needs to figure that out, or risk losing customers in general. In my case though, I think maybe we should have gotten her a less high end model. She also really dislikes the adaptive cruise, for instance. I may just switch her car to normal (non adaptive) cruise mode. I think some folks (me being one of them) really like all the tech, and others just really don't. It's hard to please everyone I guess.

You should really upgrade the Sync 3 cars, like the 2018 Fusion for example, to Sync 3.4. It looks bad to have a minor version upgrade available and refuse to provide it to other vehicles on the same major version. It makes it look like you're trying to encourage people to buy a new vehicle by refusing to upgrade their Nav system.

We have two Fusions: A 2018, and a 2020. Both have Lane Keeping Assist. Both say, in the manual, that the enable/disable setting of Lane Keeping is preserved when you shut off the car and restart it. However, only the 2018 behaves that way. In our 2020, every time we shut off the car and restart it, Lane Keeping is off. We can turn it back on and it works fine, but we have to press the button on the stalk to do so. This means it never, ever gets used (it's my wife's car and she just won't use the feature if she has to turn it on manually). This makes the feature useless. I have looked for settings and they're identical in both cars. Also, there are no DTCs when I scan. I even, in desperation, tried flashing the 2018 firmware for the Steering Column Control Module into her 2018, but that didn't change anything. So I flashed her 2020 firmware back (which, as expected, didn't fix the problem either). Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

I'm a little sorry to hear that, @Exit32! It's been interesting hearing your stories about this. One last word: I wanted to mention (and just never got back to you about it---been working on some things with my FFS) that I wholeheartedly agreed with your choice of an analog voltmeter vs a digital one for this. While I love my digital for straight signal measurements of mostly steady levels, you're absolutely right that there's no substitute for an analog on rapidly-varying signals (nor for an o-scope for transients, of course). Anyhow just wanted to say I've enjoyed your posts on this! And @akirbyI'll be really disappointed the day Ford removes the AM and/or FM from their new cars. I imagine it'll happen eventually but I hope not for a very long time.

positioning of the interior fuse panel is quite a challenge. 😉

I certainly applaud the effort there, that was very good thinking! But I would raise three technical concerns for further consideration: 1. Sensitivity of your voltmeter: I'm not sure whether the sensitivity of your voltmeter will be adequate to visibly detect a voltage level change in a regulated circuit, even under the proposed conditions. 2. Responsiveness of the voltmeter: I'm not clear that I've ever known the frequency or duration of the pulse length, but for certain values of frequency and duration, I would think the voltmeter would have a difficult time representing a change. Someone more familiar with the actual noise would perhaps be better able to assess the risk of #2 being an issue; the longer the duration of the pulse, and the lower the frequency, the more likely the meter will adequately display a variance. 3. Noise leakage into car circuitry: It does sound, from the messages above, as though the noise signal is being transferred through vehicle wiring. However, this does not preclude the possibility that, while the signal level is above the noise floor, it may be on the order of millivolts or even microvolts, and could even carry a modulation at frequencies far beyond what a voltmeter could represent. I would perhaps connect an oscilloscope to the 12V on the car, and watch the waveform pattern while driving. Given a suitable oscilloscope, that would address even #3, which while it has components of #1 and #2 included, is really a separate and distinct issue. Think here of the noise patterns introduced by leaky digital circuits into DAC systems, for instance, such as was common on older PCs, if that helps illustrate what I mean. You'd almost always need an oscilloscope to adequately represent what was happening.

It sounds like maybe a motor. My guess would be something like the fuel injectors. The problem would be narrowing it down, and I'm not sure the problem is something, like you suggested, that would be easy to get a lot of attention. I can't reproduce it because I don't own the same platform, I have a Fusion. So aside from offering advice which so far hasn't helped, I don't know how to help you here really. But I will say it sounds like something like a motor probably. AM noise is very low frequency compared to most systems in a modern car so I wouldn't expect anything like Adaptive Cruise radar, for instance, to be the issue. I think ignition or small motor (electric motor I mean), most likely. I wish you luck getting it narrowed down.

Does it change with throttle input (more gas making more, louder, or higher-pitched pulses)? I just wonder if it's the ignition spark or something like that. Of course that's still happening when you're stopped at a light, but only enough to maintain engine operation.

It sounds to me like maybe the ABS module, or possibly a wiring harness problem. I would lean more towards the ABS module though since everything seems related to that. However, given that every symptom you've mentioned is a safety issue, I would advise not driving the car until this is resolved. Personally, I would have it towed to a reputable shop because brake issues aren't something where you want to take chances. The fact the car is locking the rear brakes is another indication there is a severe failure of some type and, presumably, the car is (even under these conditions) doing its best to keep you safe by preventing driving. I also want to emphasize that I am not a mechanic, I just have picked up information about cars.

Also another little bit about this: From what I remember, there are two places this is at in your vehicle modules. The Body Control Module actually controls the signaling for the locks, and that's where setting is that actually enables this. Then there's the IPC Module, which has a setting that controls whether you can see/control this option in your Driver Information Display. So you can have it enabled without even seeing it as an option on your dash, or you can have it set up like mine where you can control it from the dash.

Hi bbf2530, I don't know if the OP's vehicle was purchased used, but my Fusion Sport does do this. Why? Because I enabled it with ForScan. It didn't until I went in and changed that though, because as you said, the Fords and Lincolns don't do that normally. But what I'm thinking, is maybe the OP's car was purchased used, and whoever owned it before made ForScan changes.

I don't personally have the 2.5 in mine but everything I've ever seen about those 2.5s tells me they are extremely reliable. Many people seem to be able to get high mileage (sometimes even 300k+) out of them. They are very simple compared to a turbo engine, so a lot less to go wrong. I would feel very comfortable with one of those for a situation where I needed high engine reliability.

The other thing that comes to mind, since it's happening in one car and not in several others, is that you might have a problem with your receiver on that station. With AM in particular over the years, I've seen they can develop areas of the dial where the reception is poor (not specific to Ford, just in general), but yours is brand new so don't think that's the problem in your case. Honestly I'd reach out to your dealership about it if it happened to me because my AM radio gets used all the time. If you can, maybe ask to get into another 20 Aviator and check the reception on your station. That might be interesting. In the worst case, if it's something about the design of the radio in the 20 Aviator (I doubt this but I'm just saying if it is) you should be able to listen on Bluetooth by streaming it, as an option. But I suspect something is wrong with your particular radio.