Lucifer Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 A few daytime pics.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris1970 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Great job lucifer. Is it possible to see a video of your work? Kinda difficult to see in stills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) Great job lucifer. Is it possible to see a video of your work? Kinda difficult to see in stills. Well, after trying for a couple weeks to upload a video on this site, I have uploaded it to YouTube. Here are a few links: www.youtube.com/T58aGjDld7I http://youtu.be/QGolNqZyAaQ http://youtu.be/cq9G2it7RjQ http://youtu.be/Vxn4SClwmG4 Edited February 15, 2014 by Lucifer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hello, I'm new here since I just bought a new 2014 Ford Fusion in December. I bought the HID conversion kit with relay and I am still having some issues. At first my issue was that I bought the kit without the relay wiring harness only to find out it wouldn't work correctly. After buying and installing the harness, the lights came on but would flicker on the drivers side. I was told by the company I bought them through to try and swap the ballast box with each other. I did that and the flicker pretty much went away. Now there is a new problem; if I use my directionals, the passenger HID turns off. The only way to get it to come back on is to turn the light switch from ON to AUTO, or ON to the RUNNING LIGHT feature. I'm at a loss and don't know what to do now. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris1970 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 The wire to activate the HID bulb system should be connected at the wire where the old halogen (drivers side) head light is powered. It should not be powered from a turn signal or running light bulb wire. The only purpose of the HID system to be connected to the headlight bulb power wire is to get the signal from the switch to turn on and off. The power to run the system is coming directly from the battery, by way of the relay harness. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 chris1970, the HID lights themselves are plugged into the original factory plugs. The rest of the wires coming off of the xenon kit are plugged into the relay harness. The ground wires for each light are wired to the frame/fender. The lights were working fine until I turned my blinker on which then turned off my passenger drivers light for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 There is a new Fusion G2 specific forum so I will attempt to compile G2 headlight specific posts there: http://fordfusiong2forum.com/topic/114-sextet-projector-hid-headlights-led-switchback-drl/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 (edited) OK, both lights turn on and stay on and are wired properly. The only thing is that the drivers side flutters here and there, and sometimes when I use my directional it causes the drivers side xenon to flash. Any ideas? Possible bad ground? Edited February 16, 2014 by MrFusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 OK, both lights turn on and stay on and are wired properly. The only thing is that the drivers side flutters here and there, and sometimes when I use my directional it causes the drivers side xenon to flash. Any ideas? Possible bad ground? Mr. Fusion, The "problem" is with the car's computer not recognizing the load your HID relay is drawing. These are VERY smart, highly engineered cars. The turn signals and headlights each have separate power circuits, but share a common ground circuit. If you have wired your relay ground wire for the original headlight power (now the "on/off signal") circuit to the fender as Chris1970 suggests, then when the turn signal is also turn "on" the computer measures only the current drawn by the turn signal through the standard ground circuit and is not able to account for the reduced load of the two circuits. This causes it to try to figure out what is going on by modulating the pulse width of power to the headlight circuit....to the point of providing too little current to keep your HID relay energized. When it opens, even momentarily, the spark between the electrodes of your HID collapses and your ballast may or may not be able to re-light it before the next collapse. The "problem" not likely to be your ground. You will either need to re-wire your relay to the original ground circuit, add a heat producing, power consuming resistor to your power side of the circuit, or insert an electrolytic capacitor to supply electricity to the relay coil when the car computer does its thing (described above). The latter is the easiest and is available at Radio Shack for a couple bucks. For example, part number 272-1030, a 35v 470uf model. Bend the leads and insert them into your relay socket where the relay prongs are inserted, positive to positive, negative to negative, the capacitor should be marked for polarity, or the longer of the two leads will be the positive one. Like this..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris1970 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I don't see why his system is different than anyone else's. Also, my HID's are not grounded to a fender, they are grounded to two bolts underneath the front plastic flap near the hood latch. These bolts have provided a flawless connection for my ground without flickering or lighting failures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Mr. Fusion, The "problem" is with the car's computer not recognizing the load your HID relay is drawing. These are VERY smart, highly engineered cars. The turn signals and headlights each have separate power circuits, but share a common ground circuit. If you have wired your relay ground wire for the original headlight power (now the "on/off signal") circuit to the fender as Chris1970 suggests, then when the turn signal is also turn "on" the computer measures only the current drawn by the turn signal through the standard ground circuit and is not able to account for the reduced load of the two circuits. This causes it to try to figure out what is going on by modulating the pulse width of power to the headlight circuit....to the point of providing too little current to keep your HID relay energized. When it opens, even momentarily, the spark between the electrodes of your HID collapses and your ballast may or may not be able to re-light it before the next collapse. The "problem" not likely to be your ground. You will either need to re-wire your relay to the original ground circuit, add a heat producing, power consuming resistor to your power side of the circuit, or insert an electrolytic capacitor to supply electricity to the relay coil when the car computer does its thing (described above). The latter is the easiest and is available at Radio Shack for a couple bucks. For example, part number 272-1030, a 35v 470uf model. Bend the leads and insert them into your relay socket where the relay prongs are inserted, positive to positive, negative to negative, the capacitor should be marked for polarity, or the longer of the two leads will be the positive one. Like this..... IMAG15011.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 (edited) Thank you for your help. I bought the part you suggested from Radio Shack this evening. Needless to say it only made the light act worse. I am at a loss at this point. I am almost to the point of putting my crappy halogens back in just to have lights that work the correct way. The only other thing I can think of is lengthening the ground wire to be able to reach the ground connection closest to the battery instead of the fender mounts. I also noticed that when using this xenon setup my radios reception is full of static. Edited February 18, 2014 by MrFusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 (edited) I don't see why his system is different than anyone else's. Also, my HID's are not grounded to a fender, they are grounded to two bolts underneath the front plastic flap near the hood latch. These bolts have provided a flawless connection for my ground without flickering or lighting failures. Chris1970, my apologies for any perceived offense, none intended and I see that the fender reference was MrFusion's. As to the difference in [electrical] systems, yes there are differences. I see that your car and MrFusion's have an Oto-cycle ICE whereas my Energi has an Atkinson-cycle ICE and electric drive system. Your cars utilize a traditional alternator, mine employs a voltage converter. They operate at different voltages and the computer code is quite different in the two cars. My 12v system is approximately 12.5v when "off" and a regulated 14.5v when the voltage converter is "on". I would imagine yours is 12.7-14.3 depending on what your alternator is doing at the time of measurement. Historically, the relay wired to ground would be fine, but my hands-on experience with my car has been an eye-opener and I have been amazed at the amount of thought that has been put into engineering the system. The relays each of us are using are likely also different, so also would be the amount of current they draw when energized and the amount of voltage the require to remain energized...the latter being what causes the flickering. Edited February 18, 2014 by Lucifer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thank you for your help. I bought the part you suggested from Radio Shack this evening. Needless to say it only made the light act worse. I am at a loss at this point. I am almost to the point of putting my crappy halogens back in just to have lights that work the correct way. The only other thing I can think of is lengthening the ground wire to be able to reach the ground connection closest to the battery instead of the fender mounts. I also noticed that when using this xenon setup my radios reception is full of static. Mr. Fusion, Do you have any RF filters (circumferential iron ferrite magnets) on your power cables? If the capacitor did not work, then you may need a larger one, a diode to prevent back current, or to return to the original grounding point through the headlight wiring harness. Do you have a 12v test light and a couple lengths of spare wire? When your HIDs are flickering, can you hear the power relay flickering too? You may want to get some scrap wire and do some testing before you make a permanent change or give-up entirely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Lucifer, I finally fixed the problem thanks to the shop I bought them through. They gave me different ballasts, and a set of anti flicker modules. Everything finally works and no more static in the radio either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp2388 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 MrFusion, can you post a pic of the beam pattern for the HIDs you have? I'm thinking about this mod but not sure how the beam pattern will work out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I will post a pic of the beam pattern. If you have a 2013 or 14' Fusion it is totally worth it. Since we have projectors the xenon lights don't need much if any adjusting. I am assuming that I need to host the pics elsewhere, so I will upload and share for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp2388 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 I will post a pic of the beam pattern. If you have a 2013 or 14' Fusion it is totally worth it. Since we have projectors the xenon lights don't need much if any adjusting. I am assuming that I need to host the pics elsewhere, so I will upload and share for you. awesome. i look forward to seeing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 https://www.dropbox.com/s/qxqr1dujcayi17y/Photo%20Feb%2018%2C%209%2040%2047%20PM.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/sxko61xp34cih9x/Photo%20Feb%2018%2C%209%2041%2005%20PM.jpg Can you see these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp2388 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 https://www.dropbox.com/s/qxqr1dujcayi17y/Photo%20Feb%2018%2C%209%2040%2047%20PM.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/sxko61xp34cih9x/Photo%20Feb%2018%2C%209%2041%2005%20PM.jpg Can you see these? yes, I can. Thanks for posting. They look pretty good! I'm thinking of going with the Morimoto HID kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrFusion Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 I've read a lot of good things about the morimoto kit. Now that I've got everything worked out I am glad I did the upgrade. Next up is the black carbon wrap on the roof, tint and rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wailer Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Hi, I'm having difficulty with the install of the Retrofit Source Morimoto kit in my 2013 Fusion Hybrid. It may be where I'm trying t draw power from. I've got the car all torn down and the bumper loose (THAT was a bear!) and have hooked everything up correctly, as best I can tell (I've done this twice before). Nothing. Not even the LED's on the relays are lit! This is a hybrid, so I had to get power off the power points for jumping up front. There's really no way to run wires all the way to the trunk for power. Could this be the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
expresspotato Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Hi, I'm having difficulty with the install of the Retrofit Source Morimoto kit in my 2013 Fusion Hybrid. It may be where I'm trying t draw power from. I've got the car all torn down and the bumper loose (THAT was a bear!) and have hooked everything up correctly, as best I can tell (I've done this twice before). Nothing. Not even the LED's on the relays are lit! This is a hybrid, so I had to get power off the power points for jumping up front. There's really no way to run wires all the way to the trunk for power. Could this be the problem? You will need a relay harness as I did. This is how mine is connected: - There is a positive terminal under the hood under a red rubber bobble. Anywhere else will give you negative. - Those two are connected to the relay. - The relay is also connected to the wire coming out from the driver side bulb fixture. The existing bulb connection is sent through the rubber stopper to the relay. *** Be careful, the bulb connector doesn't look like its polarized in any way. Use a multimeter to make sure the black wire going to your relay is negative. - The relay is connected to the driver side ballast and the passenger side ballast. - Good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remus StCloud Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I'm continuing to have problems with my DDM HID kit... one headlight went out again, and im fairly positive its the ballast... So far, i've had to return 1 bulb, and this must be my 3rd ballast im going through. It seems that each time the problem starts when the headlights are switched to automatic; one light wont turn on, but usually i could turn them on manually and they'd work for another few months. Any ideas on what keeps causing the ballasts to fail? It makes me wonder if the car's automatic headlight setting pushes too much current through the ballast or something?? Or is it just a quality problem with the ballasts that DDM is sending out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrumReaper Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I, too, am having problems with my DDM kit. I am having a lot of flickering. Also, the lights flicker when I use the turn signal. I have only replaced the low beams and used the relay harness. When I contacted DDM they told me I needed to wire in some resistors despite the fact that most of the posters I have seen here have not used resistors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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