bbf2530

Hi Epolanco2007. :D How did you qualify for A-Plan previously? Were you related to a Ford Employee? Can't you ask the person who provided you a PIN in the past for another one? You can only get an A-Plan PIN if you are one of the following: 1 - A qualified Ford Employee 2 - The Spouse, Parents (including step-parents), Spouse's parents, Grandparents, Spouse's grandparents, Sons and daughters (including in-laws and step-children), Grandchildren or Brothers and sisters (including in-laws, half and step) of qualifying Ford Employees. 3 - Employees of approved subsidiary companies/organizations and approved affiliated companies/organizations as eligibility is defined at the time of approval. Spouse, child or son/daughter-in law, Mother or Father, Mother or Father-in-law, Grandchildren, Brother or Sister, Brother or Sister-in-law of a qualified Ford Employee. I may have missed one or two, but you get the point. I am assuming at this point that you are not a Ford Employee, so if you are not one of the above relatives of a Ford Employee, you cannot qualify for an A-Plan purchase. Even cousins/nieces/nephews etc, do not qualify. It is a safe assumption to make that no Ford Employee is going to offer an A-Plan PIN to a non-qualifying individual, as they can lose their Plan priveleges permanently for doing so. Are you sure you are not thinking of an X-Plan PIN? The X-Plan is known as the "Friends and Neighbors Plan", so as the name implies, the qualifications are much more liberal. The price is not as good as A-Plan, but is still better than you would be able to negotiate on your own. Hope this information has helped to answer your questions. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jamers. :D As "theoldwizard" advised, at this point there is no need to drain and change it. Just be sure to check your oil regularly. Next oil change, be sure to put in the proper oil. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi MM. :D Try here for the parts: LINK: Team Ford Parts It is certainly well within the realm of a decent do-it-yourselfer. You could also check the local Salvage Yards for a good rear bumper, since you would need to have one repainted either way. Who knows, if you are lucky, you might find one at a Salvage Yard in the correct color. Figure your luck has to change sooner or later, right? Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi sharabi1. :D This is normal. Unpolished and unprotected aluminum will develop this "patina". That is one of the reasons why aluminum wheels are polished and/or clearcoated. Good luck with your GT500. They are beautiful cars. :beerchug:

Oooops. Brain Cloud. Veeerrry Sleeepy! Remote Starter System. I edited my post and switched Remote Starter for Alarm System. The rest of the information is still correct (and would also be correct for the "Ford Accessory Alarm System"). Thanks for catching that. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi christie. :D The "Owner" is mistaken. You have a full 3 year/36,000 mile warranty coverage (under the Ford "Bumper to Bumper Warranty") if you have your Ford Dealer install a Ford Accessory Remote Starter System as part of the new car purchase (installed at/before time of purchase). If you wait until after you purchase the vehicle, your Remote Starter system will not be covered under the 3 year/36,000 mile "Bumper to Bumper Warranty". If you wait until after purchase, I believe you only have a 1 year/12,000 mile warranty. As to your price, it is not a bad price. Ideally, you could possibly get it a little lower, but bickering and negotiating can get aggravating and reach the point of diminishing returns. If you are satisfied, be happy. If not, negotiate a little more. Maybe get them to throw in Remote Starter. Remember, if you want it covered under the Ford "Bumper to Bumper" Warranty, it has to be the "Ford Accessory Remote Starter System". Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi hlritter. :D In general, the X-Plan will get you a better price than you can negotiate on your own, except for very few exceptions. The exceptions include vehicles that a Dealer is absolutely dying to get rid of (previous years leftovers, oddball option/model combos, etc etc). What I normally recommend to those who are wondering about pricing is the following: Get your X-Plan price on a vehicle you are interested in. Note all options, option packages etc. Go to another Dealer (or two or three, according to how much time you have to waste) and try to negotiate your best price without the X-Plan. Keep in mind that when negotiating your own price (without the X-Plan), the Dealer is free to add fees and charges which are forbidden on the X-Plan. Therefore, when you negotiate you need to get the "Out the Door" price, including every last dollar, fee, charge and so on, that they are going to charge you on the Final Sales Contract. The Dealer never tells you about these charges up front, as they like to surprise you when you are signing the final paperwork. They like to make it seem as though these extra charges are "required". Once you go through all of that trouble, you will most likely find out that the X-Plan gives you the best price. So, in the end, I would recommend that you do not waste your time, and you just use the X-Plan. Hope this was not too confusing. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi ELlover. :D Sorry Tiffany, guess my attempt at humor fogged things up a bit. I have owned 4 Mustang GT's over the years, so my thoughts are: Your problem is not something that "they just do". I can say with some certainty, that none of mine ever just "do'od" that! :shades: Since you say that you are shifting correctly, and you both experience the problem while driving, your husband may very well be correct. Even if the possible problem is not too much play in the drive shaft, there would seem to be something going on. That was why, using my powers of Internet mechanical diagnosis, :stats: I said you should bring it in to have it checked. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi ELlover. :D My recommendation would be to make an appointment and bring it in for service. When you go, ask the Service Writer to have a Service Technician take a ride with you, so you can demonstrate exactly what you are concerned about. To be honest, whatever any of us tell you "may" be wrong, we are only guessing over the Internet. In the end, you still will need to bring it to the Dealer for service. So truthfully, why wait for us schmoes to take wild guesses? :shades: I wouldn't trust me over the Internet, why should you! Hope it is nothing serious. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi TKenyon. :D This probably is not the best Forum to post your request in. You will get a better response if you post your request in the "Ford X-Plan PIN Request" forum. Go to the top of the Forum home page and click on the "Ford Employee Forums" link. Then click on the "Ford X-Plan PIN Requests" link. Post a new topic by clicking one of the "New Topic" buttons (there is one towards the top on the right, and one towards the bottom on the right). Please be sure to post a "New Topic" (as you did here), and not post within someone else's PIN request. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 694doorbird. :D If no one can help you here, you might have better luck trying one of the many good Thunderbird Owners Clubs. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Daryl. :D In addition to what "akirby" has mentioned and what you have already done, here is a link to the Maintenance Schedule web pages (in case you do not have your Maintenance Schedule). Just input your vehicle information in the drop down boxes, choose "View Full Maintenance Services", then fill in the required information as the pages progress. You can either choose "Normal Driving Conditions", or one of the more severe driving conditions (if you wish to play it safer). Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi again, LSMason. :D Just to keep things in perspective, and avoid confusing you again: If you have the Dealer install the Ford Alarm System pre-purchase when your vehicle arrives (as opposed to a week, month or year later), the Alarm System will be covered only for the duration of the 3 year/36,000 mile "Bumper to Bumper" Warranty. The only way to extend this coverage past the "Bumper to Bumper" Warranty would be to purchase an Extended Warranty, or ESP Plan from Ford. The Alarm System will not be covered under the "Powertrain Warranty", whether you have a Diesel (5 year/100,000 mile) or not (5 year/60,000 miles). Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi LSMason. :D I plead "Brain Cloud"! You are correct, it was a typo on my part. I have a Lincoln MKZ. Lincoln vehicles are 4 year/50,000 miles Bumper to Bumper. Ford and Mercury vehicles are 3 year/36,000 miles Bumper to Bumper. My brain forgot to process the difference this time (or, I just thought that everyone should own a Lincoln!). :yup: I found the post you were referring to and corrected it! Thanks, and good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Daryll40. :D That is exactly the point. All we can do over the Internet is guess, then have you tell us you already checked this or that. As the other posters above bring up wheel bearings (another good possibility), you need to bring your car to a competent mechanic, take him for a test drive and let him hear the noise you are describing. Or have a friend with good automotive knowledge check out your concerns. Internet diagnosing does not work. Hope it is nothing serious. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Daryll40. :D Well, without much information to go on, and guessing over the Internet, here goes: Yes, it could certainly be the tires. The recommended (by tire Manufacturers themselves) lifespan of most tires is approximately 5 years. As tires age, they get harder and more "brittle", due to environmental and use factors. This lifespan is the same whether the tires have 1,000 miles, or 50,000 miles. It could be an exhaust leak/drone. It could be also be engine related. It could be a failed/damaged door or window seal. Do you periodically lubricate the door and window seals with a silicone based spray or gel (everyone should, but most people don't)? If they are the original tires (68,000 miles/+- half tread?) it is certainly possible that the tires have hardened considerably, leading to greatly increased road noise. If they are the originals, you should probably replace them. Go to Tirerack.com, or better yet call them, and look for a tire that fits your criteria, including low road noise. You don't have to buy from them, you can just use their data base. Their prices are excellent though. The best any of us can do is take educated guesses, so if you are not comfortable trying to discover the problem on your own, have a mechanic, or a knowledgeable friend look at it. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Pete. :D Let us know what you finally decide to do. And post some pictures if you decide to go with a spoiler. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi exrub. :D Stop in at your Ford Dealerships Service Department, and have them fasten/install whatever it is properly. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi John. :D If you have the Ford Dealer install a remote start and/or alarm system when your vehicle arrives (before you drive off with it), your system will be warrantied for the same 3 year/36,000 mile "Bumper to Bumper Warranty" as your vehicle. If you have an aftermarket remote start and/or alarm installed by an outside installer, you can run into problems later. First of all, it will not be warrantied by Ford, at all. Next, to install, a remote start and/or alarm, the electrical system will need to be cut into/altered. You have now modified your vehicles electrical system. If you should have any type of electrical problem, or an engine problem which can be traced back (even coincidentally) to an electrical problem remotely related to the remote start and/or alarm installation, the Dealer or Ford can/may deny your particular Warranty claim. This does not mean that will always occur. You may be lucky and they won't notice, or your Dealership may be a bit more liberal than some and let it go through. But, you are taking your chances. Any Warranty work/claims which cannot be connected to the installation would still be covered. Of course it is up to you, but I would recommend that you have the Dealership install the system. Whatever you decide to do, good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Pete. :D I realize this won't make you feel any better, but I have a 2007 MKZ, and don't have any problems opening the trunk lid. Mine does open far enough to put my fingers under the lid and lift (and no munchkin fingers here, I am not exactly a little person ). Maybe you should have the Dealer look at yours? As far as snow on the bumper, we need to brush the snow off the bumper (and trunk lid too) before opening the trunk anyway. If you don't, there is a good chance that the snow will fall into the trunk when you open it, since the bumper is basically at the same level as the trunk opening. On a similar but different note, I do believe that they should have included a pull down strap on the inside of the trunk lid, to aid in closing it. I hate putting finger prints all over my nice clean trunk lid! (other times, I think we all just complain way too much ). As to a spoiler: If you like the look of your MKZ with a spoiler, then go with it. I will not express my opinion on the looks, since you did not ask that question. Whatever you decide to do, good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Brian. :D Your friend should do exactly what "jinxd" stated. He needs to file an official complaint to be sure it is on the record. Anything less will not stop this "other person". Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Trudi. :D While it is not your fault that you wound up doing business with dishonest people, there are things we all must do to safeguard ourselves. Like"thegeneral" stated, it is the minority that makes the majority look bad. Never sign any agreements, or leave any money down/deposits unless you have all figures agreed upon, in writing, and have gone over them with a calculator and a fine tooth comb. Even then be wary. As soon as they would not give you a breakdown, you should have said you were leaving. When you stayed, played their game and left a deposit, they knew they had a live one. Again, it is not your fault, you are the novice, they are the professionals. They tricked you into playing the game their way. Essentially, when making a big ticket purchase like a car, live by the old saying "Believe none of what you hear, and only half of what you see!" :blink: Additionally, you should not have left a deposit on a non-existent vehicle which you had not seen. You should have waited until they notified you they found a vehicle that fit your wishes, then looked over the Invoice before leaving a deposit, and kept a copy of the Invoice. Again, if a Dealer will not show you this paperwork, they are up to no good, so walk out. When you saw the price discrepancy, you should have called immediately, not waited several days. Again, when you hesitate or "waffle", a dishonest Dealer figures you are an easy mark.. Hopefully, you used a Credit Card to leave the deposit? Never pay a deposit with cash, or even a check. Always use a credit card. In this way, you can always notify the credit card company to not make payment, or to reverse the payment if it has already been made. If you paid by check, have a "stop payment" put on it, if it has not been cashed yet. Hopefully, you have it in writing that the deposit is refundable? Never take anyone's word for it. If a Dealer will not put it in writing, they are dishonest, take your business elsewhere. Stop doing business over the phone. Go to the Dealership and politely but firmly demand your deposit back, immediately. No mailing of a check, no excuses that the "Deposit Manager" is out sick. Just station yourself at the front desk until they give you your money back. I do not mean this as an insult in any way, but if you have very large husband/boyfriend/male friend, ask him to come along and stand at your side. Please understand, I am not trying to pile on here, just try to point out the things you should not repeat. As far as calling Ford Customer Service: Unfortunately, there really is not much Ford can do. By Federal law, Auto Dealers are independent franchises, and the auto manufacturer's have little power over them. I think you will get your deposit back, but they will try to make it hard for you. That is what mean little people, with no character or morals normally do. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi 08Hybrid. :D Ouch! Well, we were looking for the catch, and you found it. All warranty work from Day 1/Mile 0 counts against the "Extended Warranty". I should have known that, having had a vaguely related situation in 2001 concerning an ESP refund. So essentially, the fine print of that warranty, in a way, "voids" (highly modifies at the very least) your 3 year/36,000 mile New Car Warranty. :blink: As you have correctly surmised, the first time you take your Escape Hybrid in to have any warranty work done, even work normally covered (for free) by the Standard 3yr/36,000 mile Warranty, you have thrown $1,060 out the window. In that case, I truly wish you many years (at least more than 5yr/60,000 miles) of safe and (absolutely) trouble free driving! Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi all. :D Unfortunately, that (08Hybid's) is most likely a third party warranty, not the Ford ESP Plan. While there are some decent third party plans out there, they are hard to find and you take your chances. I am not saying that what 08Hybrid purchased is bad, as we would need to read the entire contract to know the answer to that. No one will know that answer until it is needed, and then it is usually too late. Hope it works out for you. Good luck! :beerchug: PS - Yes, I read the further post that you believe that warranty work is under the ESP Plan. That would be improbable. I am not saying impossible, just improbable. Ford does not refund the Dealer if a vehicle owner does not use the Plan, so it is highly doubtful that the Dealer would hand money back to the vehicle owner after 5 years. I also clicked on the second link (in the other Forum), but it does not work.

Hi mnmustang. :D Putting Local1111's refreshing bluntness aside for a moment, it would seem that you are more attracted to the Bullitt. So, bite the bullet and buy the Bullitt (hey, I think I like that!). I agree with most of your musings concerning the two, their future collectible status, collectibles in general, etc etc. Unless you are going to store it away and not drive it regularly (in my eyes a grave sin), neither will be a collectible, if they ever are anyway. So why not just purchase the Bullitt, the one that is "growling" to you (and will cost thousands less). If you want the bling and possible "brag" factor, since you have the ability, buy the Shelby. In my opinion, both are good cars (I am a Mustang fan, having owned 4 GT's over the years) and equally "honest". They just are trimmed differently, both in power and looks, and one costs more than the other (due mainly to Dealer profit grabbing). Whatever you decide to do, good luck! :beerchug: