NH_Bulldog

We too moved up from an F150 to this new truck. We had a 45 mile ride home from the dealer (a different Rochester Ford than yours) with a mix of highways and backroads. We didn't use cruise control and varied the rpms and gears as much as we could. That being said, it is VERY easy to let that 7.3 roar and before you even realize it you are doing 80 MPH on the highway....ooops. I have had new Ford company vehicles every 2 years since 1990 that I put about 40,000-50,000 miles per year on. I have never followed any established break-in procedure and I have never had any issues in all these years. We are heading out on our first camping trip next week and will have a comfortable 1,000 miles on it by then, so I am satisfied that all will be good. Not sure why I felt it necessary to baby this one (maybe because it's my own?), I just hope this isn't the one vehicle that goes bad on me.......

Sorry, it was in my first post, I forgot to repost the info again: Dealer Code - F11532 Order - T124

Good morning, at your convenience, looking for any update on this order. Much appreciated!

The PCO says that you must order or take delivery by 4/4/22 (at least mine did). If you received yours after you ordered, it won’t count. If you didn’t take delivery by the expiration date, it won’t count. At a dealer’s option, they could petition Ford to extend the offer, but most don’t even bother trying, they just tell you that Ford said no and then they cash in on crazy markups. If you don’t buy it, there is a long line behind you who will. Dealers do not have to accept the PCO, nor do they have to accept X-Plan. I was able to get PCO honored at the last minute by finalizing the paperwork at 4:30 PM on 4/4, even though I didn’t get the truck until the 5th. My dealer refused to honor X-Plan.

Ford says that trucks with the 3" receiver get a 3" to 2 1/2" reducer. Trucks with the 2 1/2" receiver (like my F250) do not get a 2 1/2" to 2" reducer.

I have read about some older issues with the wire between the coil and plug and their proximity to the exhaust manifold (heat generated when under load). My Explorer Limited with the 4.6L V8 had a situation exactly like you described and it turned out to be the coils not the wires. They worked fine at lower RPM’s but couldn’t produce enough energy for high-demand needs. So I replaced all 8 coils (nothing else) and it was like a new vehicle!

We got a rate of 4.5% and they gave us crazy money for our F150, so we went with a 4 year note. As far as rates go up, and how fast it is happening; In October we refinanced our 30 year mortgage (we were 2 years into it) from a 4.5% rate to a 15 year 2.25% rate. The rate this morning is right at 5% for a 15 year and a 30 year is approaching 7%. Things are moving fast, and I would suggest locking in a rate now if you can.

Okay, so we brought the camper home this morning. I went through the whole WDH set-up process since we went from an F150 to an F250. To my surprise, I actually had to move the ball mount one notch up the shank to a higher position. Thinking about it, I guess it makes sense because my F150 sagged so much with the tongue weight, that I had to set the ball mount low in order to let the spring bars pull everything back level when connected by lifting the rear and pushing down the front. My WDH is also an integrated sway control so I think I still need to use it, but with a standard draw bar the back only dropped 1/2" and the front only raised 1/4". I have it set currently to put the front back to unloaded height, and it seemed to tow fine at highway speeds even with a good cross wind. When we go camping in 10 days I will see how it handles fully loaded and make adjustments if needed when we get to the RV Park. In short, I think the standard drop is perfectly fine without having to buy a new shank

Okay, for what it's worth, I measured my truck just now and it is 23" from the ground to the inside top of my 2 1/2" hitch receiver. The truck is a week old so I doubt there is an wear/sag on the components yet. This is for a GENERAL idea only, do not bet the farm on my measurements of my truck because yours will be different to some degree. My configuration: 2022 F250 4x4 7.3L Crew Cab Short Bed. FX4 Package, 275/70-18 A/T Tires, Snow Plow Prep/Camper Package, 10,000 lb. GVWR Package, Spray-in Bed Liner, and Tri-fold Hard Tonneau Cover. I am hauling my camper from storage tomorrow and will check my WDH set-up at that time.

Keep this in mind as you read responses; F150's up to and including model year 2014 are significantly different than 2015 and up models due to the change to aluminum body's. Something happened to the handling characteristics starting in 2015 that negatively impacted towing stability and comfort. I towed a camper with my 2015 F150 Super Crew Short Bed with the 3.5L Ecoboost and 3:31 gears up until I picked up my F250 last week. My camper is about 7,500 lbs. with a 925 lb. tongue weight using an Eaz-Lift Trekker Weight Distribution hitch. The F150 has PLENTY of power and towing capability. However, it seriously lacks STABILITY. Without upgrading the suspension and tires, I strongly discourage towing anything over 5,000 - 7,000 pounds. I had a Max Tow package with a cargo capacity (from the yellow and white sticker on the driver's door frame) of 2,423 lbs. That number is important because that is the combined maximum weight of all loads placed on or in the truck; people, fuel, pets, hitch weight, any accessories added after it left the factory, tongue weight, etc. I added Load Range E tires, Timbren's and a Helwig Sway Bar just to safely tow my camper. As an example; start with your cargo capacity from the door sticker (I would guess yours to be in the 1,700 lb. to 1,900 lb. range). Again, mine was 2,423 lbs. so we can use mine as an example. From 2,423 lbs, deduct the weight of a full tank of fuel, two adults, one child, two dogs and added truck accessories for a total of 942 lbs. leaving us 1,481 lbs. from that, deduct the weight of the weight distribution hitch of 100 lbs. leaving us 1,381 lbs. From that, deduct 925 lbs tongue weight leaving us a margin of 556 lbs. for an extra kid, or a safety margin. That margin evaporates if you have a lower cargo capacity. Even worse with a 5th wheel hitch at 500 lbs. or so. Can the truck do it? Yes, mine did it quite well after spending a lot of money in upgrades. Should you? not really, but in the end it is up to you (or your son) what your/his risk tolerance is.

That doesn't mean anything at all. Mine changed 12 times (that I know of) between the time it was issued, went into production, built, shipped and then delivered. The date went forward, it went backward, it stayed the same for a few days, but the truck never paused in the process and in the end I picked up my truck at the dealer 5 days before the Ford projected delivery date.

We don’t use the Anderson, but we are pulling our camper out of storage on Friday. Previously our WDH was dialed in for our F150 and I expect to reset the hitch for our new truck. Our current setup has an 8” drop and I hope that is adequate for the new truck. Once I get the camper, I can tell you what drop might be appropriate, but it will just be a generally idea since there are a lot of unknown variables in play.

According to Ford, the affected Super Duty’s were built between December 2, 2020, and February 15, 2022.

I had posted on the other Trailer Brake Controller Recall topic here. Mine was build 3/22 and the recall was published 3/25. Mine is NOT subject to the recall and does not show up on the Ford recall list, the NTSB recall list, and the dealer checked everything before I picked up the truck last week and said we are in the clear. Assuming you have independently verified that your truck is part of the recall, it is my understanding that the "fix" has not been widely released to the dealers yet for the Super Duty line, but that it is simply a software update that they plug in and upload. Unless you are planning to tow immediately (which Ford does not recommend), I would get the truck home and have a local dealer address it when the fix is widely available. It doesn't affect anything else except trailer brakes.

My physical sticker says Kentucky in the Final Assembly Plant box at the bottom of the sticker right above the Method of Transport box (Rail). Online, the Final Assembly Plant box is blanked out, but interestingly enough, when I saved my online sticker as a PDF, you can look really close and see that the Assembly box is VERY faint, but shows Kentucky, and on the physical window sticker, the KTP-xxxxx at the top left is not there at all

Upper left corner of the window sticker. It will say KTP (Kentucky Truck Plant) followed by a dash and some numbers and appears on both the digital (online) and physical stickers. KTP builds Expedition and Navigator SUV's and F250, F350, F450 and F550 trucks. The only other truck plant is the Ohio Assembly Plant where they build E-series vans, and F650 and F750 trucks.

Congratulations and welcome to the new owner club! But don’t go away, there is still a ton of info here and who knows? You might be able to help another owner at some point!

With some effort, you could get lucky with finding the transport company serving your rail yard. The auto ramp where mine was unloaded was run by CSX and I was able to find (through trial and error) that United Road was the hauler serving that particular ramp. The information you can get is limited; not unloaded (inactive), unloaded (pending pickup), in route (on it’s way to the dealer) and delivered (self explanatory). There is no “schedule”, they pick it up when they pick it up. Mine was at the ramp for 4 days this time, but on another order a couple of years ago it was sitting there 14 days.

In that case, that is one big azz alternator

Not sure why that is funny? The 7.3 with snow plow prep has two batteries and two alternators. Were you poking fun at the other guy for saying his alternator (singular) was 397 amps?

Two alternators actually!

I think that by the time you bought all the parts and installed them correctly you will have exceeded the cost of a capable generator. Also consider that the battery or batteries in a truck are not deep cycle, they are for short intermittent loads. Running them down repeatedly will drastically shorten their life. On the F150’s with this option, hybrids will run off the lithium batteries until a certain point and then the truck starts to recharge everything. On non-hybrid F150’s and also on the Super Duty, the truck has to be running for the system to operate. I would much rather run my 60 lb. one cylinder, gas-sipping, quiet generator (Generac GP3000i) than my big block gas hog V8 to power my RV.

The sensor is the same for manual or auto hvac systems. The difference is that on the manual system, it is only used for the remote start to heat or cool to bring cabin temp to 72°F.

Thank you Cyberdman!

Agreed. My Batch was 004807 and my Build was 1455/3052