blksn8k2

Money talks.

Not quite ready for a Lightning yet but it's a start. I bought this to use mainly to get to and from my tree stands during archery season without making as much noise or stink. Greenworks 60V mini-bike. I also have multiple other Greenworks tools that use the same 60V batteries as this so it made perfect sense. 25 mph top speed and 20 mile range.

I would also like to know which type of oil pump is used on the F-150 Raptor R ???

If you read the Roush supercharger kit warranty it actually states that their powertrain warranty would be voided if you did install aftermarket oil pump gears. I take that more as Roush not wanting to be held responsible for someone else's parts. What did Ford do on the last GT500? Did the 5.2L Predator use the same oil pump gears and housing as a standard Coyote in a Mustang GT or were they upgraded? As far as the '21-24 5.0L F-150 variant, what has been the history on supercharged trucks? Have there been any oil pump or belt failures? I'm still on the fence as far as supercharging my '23 Tremor but so far I don't see the oil pump design as any reason not to do that. All I can say is that I would be a lot less hesitant if the truck were not my daily driver...

Anyone know why Ford is still using the gear driven oil pump on the latest version of the 5.0L Coyote in the Mustang instead of the belt driven oil pump as used in the '21-24 F-150 5.0L? I have read that Ford engineers claim the factory belt driven design can withstand "over 1000 HP" output levels. If it's an upgrade in reliability wouldn't it make sense to use it on the model that is more likely to be modified? Or is there a problem with packaging? In other words, will the belt driven design even fit in a Mustang chassis? What prompted the question was an article on motortrend.com about Evolution Performance adding a Whipple supercharger on a '24 Mustang Dark Horse. Among the list of modifications was this: "The engine was enhanced with a set of Boundary oil pump gears to prevent failure." Changing those gears is no simple task as the entire front of the engine has to be disassembled just to get to those gears. https://www.motortrend.com/news/evolution-performance-2024-mustang-record/?eml=organic:eml:brz:20240529:evolution-:article:regstrd:owcst:mt&utm_source=braze&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=registered

So park the golf cart on the trailer when you don't need the trailer for anything else.

When I had my '07 Sport Trac I bought an Aluma utility trailer with a 12' deck. Short bed problem solved. I still use it today behind my F-150 Tremor. It not only works for hauling longer objects but it's also ideal for riding mowers, ATVs, etc. It has a registered gross weight of 2990 lbs. although I have exceeded that a time or two without any issues. With its all aluminum construction (approx. 520 lbs) I can also move the empty trailer around by myself when it's unloaded and not attached to the truck.

I had a '72 Pinto Squire wagon, fake woodgrain, chrome roof rack and all. I bought it in '73 when gas prices shot up. It had just over 6k miles and was a 2.0L 4-speed, red w/black vinyl interior. After a couple of years I pulled the drive train out and replaced it with a 289 with a C4 auto trans and 8" rear axle assembly, all from a '65 Mustang. Fit surprisingly well and the fuel mileage wasn't bad either. I ran it that way for a few more years before replacing the 289/C4 combo with a 351W 4V and toploader 4-speed from a '69 Torino GT. Now that was a true sleeper and a really fun little car.

They also produce a bi-monthly hard copy magazine with columns by Jay Leno, Wayne Carini and Aaron Robinson along with customer road trip articles and road tests of all genres of passenger cars and trucks both classic and new. Great content.

My cousin brought his 2013 Escape over this morning and wanted me to replace the bulb for the driver side front turn signal. What a PITA! I watched a few youtube videos before I started so I kinda knew what to expect. One guy even recommended removing the entire front bumper cover just to get at the damn bulb! There's like 50 screws and clips holding the bumper cover on! You can actually see the light socket from the engine compartment but there are no openings large enough to reach down in there. We decided to try going in from the backside which meant you had to gain access through the wheel opening. The first thing we did was to remove the wheel and tire to get access to the inner fender liner attachment screws. After removing about ten of those screws I was able to pry the lower front corner of the liner back far enough to reach up with my left hand and disconnect the light socket from the backside of the light bezel all while lying on the garage floor. I guess having long arms and fingers is good for something. It took about 40 minutes to do the whole thing. Unfortunately, my cousin ordered the bulb from Advance Auto Parts (it wasn't in stock at the local store) and they sold him a clear bulb instead of the correct amber bulb. It still works, it's just not the right color. Oh well... Funniest part was that I was using a small battery powered light with a magnetic base and I had laid it up inside the space between the fender liner and the bumper cover. When I removed the light there was a small metal V-clip stuck to the magnet. About two years ago I replaced the fan motor for the heater and to do that you had to remove a couple of plastic covers from the cowl area between the windshield and the firewall. In the process of doing that I dropped that same metal V-clip and could never find it until today. I guess that just goes to show how tight that enclosure is that a small clip couldn't find its way out of there in all that time.

I have all of my classics insured by Hagerty and I belong to the Hagerty Drivers Club. This is their test of the Mustang Dark Horse. Awesome video production IMO.

Episode #4:

Episode #3:

Episode #2:

More Testing: