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New Exporer might miss its target


theoldwizard

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2011 Ford Explorer With EcoBoost Delivers Class Leading MPG; 30% Better Than Current V-6 Model

 

EPA says the current V6 get 20 mpg highway. 30% increase would be 26 mpg.

 

It would take a 50% increase to get 30 mpg !

 

I still want to know how much it weighs.

 

You may have missed the important bolded words below:

 

...achieving at least a 30 percent increase in fuel efficiency compared with the current V-6-powered Explorer...

 

I'm not saying it will or it won't, just that we won't know for sure until Ford tells us.

 

As I have seen on the Explorer Facebook page, it is supposed to get 19 MPG city. That is a 35+% improvement over the current city number of 14.

Edited by fordmantpw
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  • 4 weeks later...

2011 Ford Explorer With EcoBoost Delivers Class Leading MPG; 30% Better Than Current V-6 Model

 

EPA says the current V6 get 20 mpg highway. 30% increase would be 26 mpg.

 

It would take a 50% increase to get 30 mpg !

 

I still want to know how much it weighs.

 

I am consistently getting 21+ mpg hwy with he 2009 V-6 Explorer averaging 75mph - with the tire pressure pumped up to 44 psi. Frankly though I understand the masses demanded a complete make over of the Explorer, I'm a huge fan of the current body and frame model.

 

My guess is had they put the 3.7L V6 in the body on frame model it'd deliver 24-25 mpg HWY.

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According to Amy Marentic, the marketing manager for the new Ford Explorer, the new version weighs 100 pounds less than the old version.

 

She was recently on Autoline Afterhours talking about the new Explorer. Catch the podcast (episode 65) here:

 

http://www.autolinedetroit.tv/journal/?cat=1513

 

Seriously? 100 lbs? All the work they put into lightening it and they only saved 100lbs off the "heavy" BOF version? That can't be right (not doubting you...just find it odd).

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Seriously? 100 lbs? All the work they put into lightening it and they only saved 100lbs off the "heavy" BOF version? That can't be right (not doubting you...just find it odd).

 

They made the vehicle larger, quieter, and more than likely quite a bit safer and still managed to make it lighter. I'd call that an accomplishment.

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I hope your your life insurance is paid up !

 

Also, at that pressure you will wear out the center portion of your tires long before the outer edges.

 

 

You can't fix stupid. Some people think they know more than the folks that actually make the tires.

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You can't fix stupid. Some people think they know more than the folks that actually make the tires.

 

You guys sure like to act like you know everything. Different tires take different pressure. What if he no longer has factory tires on it?

 

The tires on my wife's LS take 35 PSI max. The 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/Ts I just took off my 92 Explorer took 50 PSI max. I always ran them at 50 PSI. I got 65,000 miles out of those tires with no uneven wear, and got 18 mpg winter, 20 mpg summer, and 23 mpg summer highway. I've seen plenty of tires that take 44 PSI max, such as the Goodyear Wranglers I had on my explorer before the BF Goodrich, which I always kept at 44 PSI and got great life out of those as well.

 

My advice is to read the side of the tire where it says "max pressure = " and then fill them up to that pressure. Obviously that is a maximum pressure, and you can run less (to an extent) to improve ride quality, but fuel economy will take a hit with less pressure. The pressure listed on the sticker on the door jamb is only applicable to the factory tires.

Edited by Sevensecondsuv
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You guys sure like to act like you know everything. Different tires take different pressure. The tires on my wife's LS take 35 PSI max. The 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/Ts I just took off my 92 Explorer took 50 PSI max. I always ran them at 50 PSI. I got 65,000 miles out of those tires with no uneven wear, and got 18 mpg winter, 20 mpg summer, and 23 mpg summer highway. I've seen plenty of tires that take 44 PSI max, such as the Goodyear Wranglers I had on my explorer before the BF Goodrich, which I always kept at 44 PSI and got great life out of those as well.

 

My advice is to read the side of the tire where it says "max pressure = " and then fill them up to that pressure. Obviously that is a maximum pressure, and you can run less (to an extent) to improve ride quality, but fuel economy will take a hit with less pressure. The pressure listed on the sticker on the door jamb is only applicable to the factory tires.

"Max Pressure" means "THE maximum pressure"

 

When you fill cold tires and they heat up or get a load on them, the pressure increases. The pressure that you set it at when you've been parked and the car is empty can well exceed that maximum on the interstate on a warm day when your family is in the car.

 

A perfect example is the air lift system in my truck. The MAX pressure is 100PSI. The bed empty, I keep 15PSI in to keep the bag inflated. Throw a load in (a yard of gravel), and it fires up to 55. Then I can inflate it to 100. If I had inflated the bags to 100, when I put the load in the bags would have blown because it would have shot over the max.

 

Tire manufacturers don't know whether you've got a pickup or a Taurus or an Explorer riding on a specific tire size; even though the load on them is different and the recommended tire pressures from the car manufacturer are different. Yet that "max pressure" stamped on the side doesn't change...

 

Your assumption that you know better than the engineers is going to come back to bite you some day.

Edited by OAC_Sparky
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"Max Pressure" means "THE maximum pressure"

 

When you fill cold tires and they heat up or get a load on them, the pressure increases. The pressure that you set it at when you've been parked and the car is empty can well exceed that maximum on the interstate on a warm day when your family is in the car.

 

A perfect example is the air lift system in my truck. The MAX pressure is 100PSI. The bed empty, I keep 15PSI in to keep the bag inflated. Throw a load in (a yard of gravel), and it fires up to 55. Then I can inflate it to 100. If I had inflated the bags to 100, when I put the load in the bags would have blown because it would have shot over the max.

 

Tire manufacturers don't know whether you've got a pickup or a Taurus or an Explorer riding on a specific tire size; even though the load on them is different and the recommended tire pressures from the car manufacturer are different. Yet that "max pressure" stamped on the side doesn't change...

 

Your assumption that you know better than the engineers is going to come back to bite you some day.

 

No, I'm not assuming I know more than the engineers. They put the maximum pressure on the tire, I run them at that pressure. This means that I fill them up after driving when they are "hot" and on the loaded vehicle. And my load doesn't change much on the explorer - a few hundred pounds. I do run them a little lower in the pickups, due to the possibility of extra load in the bed. And for the record, I AM an engineer (by degree and job title).

 

Now I agree, filling them up to the maximum pressure while the tire is cold and off the vehicle is a recipe for disaster. On the other hand, If I used the pressure from the door jamb sticker (which was writen for 35 PSI max factory tires) for 50 PSIG max tires, I would end up with woefully under-inflated tires. That would be another recipe for disaster.

Edited by Sevensecondsuv
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And for the record, I AM an engineer (by degree and job title).

 

So you're counting on a safety margin being built in to the Max recommended pressure on the sidewall? Or do you think the tire mfrs are lying when they come up with the Max pressure?

 

No tire mfr has EVER recommended running at the max pressure. Vehicle mfrs never recommend anything close to max.

 

You've been listening to too many hypermilers.

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So you're counting on a safety margin being built in to the Max recommended pressure on the sidewall? Or do you think the tire mfrs are lying when they come up with the Max pressure?

 

No tire mfr has EVER recommended running at the max pressure. Vehicle mfrs never recommend anything close to max.

 

You've been listening to too many hypermilers.

 

Did you even read the rest of the last post?

 

I have tried the hypermiler thing with an old set of crap tires I had on my Ranger before it's restoration and turbo engine swap. They were 35 PSI max tires. I inflated them to about 70 PSI cold. I actually drove it like that for a few hundred miles before one developed a bulge in the sidewall and blew out. I did this just to experiment with over-inflated tires. The gas mileage was very good for those few hundred miles.

 

On my other vehicles, I have 100s of thousands of miles on tires inflated to the "max pressure" (again, when the tires are "hot" and on the loaded vehicle) without any failures or even un-even wear. The "max pressure" is there for a reason, and unlike the door jamb sticker, is actually meant for the specific brand/model/size tire being run on the vehicle...

Edited by Sevensecondsuv
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They've never recommended running them 20 PSI less than the max pressure either, which would have been the case if I followed the door jamb sticker's advice on the 50 PSI max tires.

 

Tire MFRs always recommend using the Vehicle MFRs recommended tire pressure. Why? Because the tire mfr has to build a tire that works for all vehicles. Their specs can't possibly take into account the weight of a specific vehicle or any other vehicle specific facts. The Vehicle mfr does take all that into account. Of course the vehicle mfr usually makes a lot of tradeoffs for comfort in their recommended settings, but there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with the factory pressure recommendation. And you can safely go a little above that. But running at the limit of what the tire is designed for is still not safe.

 

And to use your analogy - just because you've played russian roulette 20 times without losing doesn't mean it's not dangerous.

 

I just don't see the benefit of running at max pressure when you could just as easily lower it a few PSI and get basically the same results.

Obviously you can do whatever you want but to assume you know more than tire and vehicle mfrs just based on your unbelievably small sample size is ridiculous.

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I guess Michelin doesn't know anything about tires either.

 

If you don’t know the proper inflation air pressure for your tires, what do you do?

 

Easy. Check at one of the following places on your vehicle:

 

* In the vehicle owners manual.

* On the vehicle’s door jamb. (Often, a vehicle information placard is located on the door jamb along with the recommended tire inflation pressure.)

* Inside the fuel hatch filler flap. (In some vehicles.)

* The glove compartment door. (In some vehicles.)

 

o But NOT on the tire. The inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall is only the maximum tire inflation pressure. In most situations, the vehicle manufacturers recommended tire inflation pressure is shown on the vehicle placard. However, on some older vehicles, the recommended pressure listed by your vehicle’s manufacturer may be shown as two numbers: One for city speed driving and normal load and one for highway speeds and/or maximum capacity vehicle load. Be sure to inflate your tires to the recommended inflation pressure for each type of driving situation.

 

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You're right, for factory tires or like-for-like replacement tires, following the door jamb sticker is a good idea (in the case of my explorer, the door jamb sticker was 5 PSI less than the max pressure listed on the tire).

 

However, in my case, I replaced a P235/75R15 passenger tire with a 31x10.5R15 light truck high-floatation tire designed to run at a significantly higher pressure than the factory tire. Running those tires at Ford's recommended pressure for the factory passenger tires would have been dangerously under-inflated, caused premature tire wear, and bad gas mileage.

 

Let's not forget, the whole explorer-firestone debacle was caused by underinflated tires, NOT overinflated tires. With tires, I believe it is safer to err on the overinflated side, rather than the underinflated side. This opinion is based on my personal experiences and experiments.

Edited by Sevensecondsuv
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Let's not forget, the whole explorer-firestone debacle was caused by underinflated tires, NOT overinflated tires. With tires, I believe it is safer to err on the overinflated side, rather than the underinflated side. This opinion is based on my personal experiences and experiments.

 

I actually agree - overinflation is better than underinflation. We're just saying it's not a good idea to go all the way to the Max pressure on the tire. Back off a few PSI for safety.

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I actually agree - overinflation is better than underinflation. We're just saying it's not a good idea to go all the way to the Max pressure on the tire. Back off a few PSI for safety.

 

If inflating them while cold, yes 5 PSI under the max pressure (which is pretty much what the manufacturer stickers tell you). But if they're already hot from driving, which is when I usually inflate mine to get accurate readings, then I'm still comfortable going to within 2 psi of the Max pressure. On a passenger vehicle anyways. With a pickup truck you have to leave some margin for a pressure increase due to a large load in the bed.

 

In my case, with replacement tires substantially different from the originals, it is better to think for ones self than then to blindly follow the sticker.

Edited by Sevensecondsuv
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If inflating them while cold, yes 5 PSI under the max pressure (which is pretty much what the manufacturer stickers tell you). But if they're already hot from driving, which is when I usually inflate mine to get accurate readings, then I'm still comfortable going to within 2 psi of the Max pressure. On a passenger vehicle anyways. With a pickup truck you have to leave some margin for a pressure increase due to a large load in the bed.

 

In my case, with replacement tires substantially different from the originals, it is better to think for ones self than then to blindly follow the sticker.

 

I can accept that.

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Bottom line, is that you're being dangerous; it's one thing to experiment when your life is on the line, another when you share the road with other drivers.

 

By your own admission, you've driven with intentionally overinflated tires to the point they blew out. Please tell me how this is the responsible actions of an intelligent person?

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Bottom line, is that you're being dangerous; it's one thing to experiment when your life is on the line, another when you share the road with other drivers.

 

By your own admission, you've driven with intentionally overinflated tires to the point they blew out. Please tell me how this is the responsible actions of an intelligent person?

 

Oh please. This was in rural farm country, not a major urban area. An old ranger with overinflated tires is still one fo the safest vehicles on these roads, given the rigs you see some farmers going down the road in.

 

If it was an old ranger on overinflated tires with a ton of fertalizer in the bed and 3 empty grain wagons in tow (I've seen it done), then you might have something to complain about.

Edited by Sevensecondsuv
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