Pathetic Gas Mileage

[ScapeTom]

So, what instrumentation do we have to indicate when we're under vacuum vs. boost. I mean, I can't hear the turbo winding up. The engine feels natural for the most part, not unlike a small V8 when you sink your foot into it. (I have the 2.0). I'd be interested in seeing what driving techniques produce the greatest mileage without being a slug on the road. I like driving with spirit, but I'm certainly willing to alter my habits a bit to improve things. Not that I'm complaining, mind you - I see fair mileage numbers and my engine is still pretty new.

[GaryG]

So, what instrumentation do we have to indicate when we're under vacuum vs. boost. I mean, I can't hear the turbo winding up. The engine feels natural for the most part, not unlike a small V8 when you sink your foot into it. (I have the 2.0). I'd be interested in seeing what driving techniques produce the greatest mileage without being a slug on the road. I like driving with spirit, but I'm certainly willing to alter my habits a bit to improve things. Not that I'm complaining, mind you - I see fair mileage numbers and my engine is still pretty new.

 

My understanding according to Wayne, is full vacuum is only at an idle. As you press any on the accelerator, boost begins in any of the EcoBoost engines. This indicates to me that a moderate acceleration to a steady state speed will provide the best MPG. The reason? You're not spending a lot of time and distance sucking down fuel at a bad MPG. This doesn't mean floor it by any means. Once you get to your desired steady state speed, there is a technique called Pulse & Glide to use to improve MPG over what a steady state speed MPG will provide. I drive my '11 Explorer the same way and I don't have an EcoBoost engine.

 

When I first purchased my new '05 Ford Escape Hybrid (FEH), I started out getting well above the EPA rating. Wayne worked with me back then and even came to Florida to share our techniques together. Wayne then ask me to write an article still found on his home page called "Hypermiling The Ford Escape Hybrid". http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350

 

Back then, Wayne had me find a road with no traffic and mark off a starting point with paint and travel one mile and mark the finish line. This was my testing strip to perform acceleration RPM test from a stop. I used my Scangauge during these test to determine at what RPM to accelerate for the best MPG average at the end of that mile. I could choose a different steady state speed like 35mph or 45mph, but the bottom line was to find the best way to accelerate for the best MPG.

 

If you're concerned about being a slug, don't worry because being a slug will hurt your MPG more than it will help you. Often times I look over at the driver in the car next to me getting 18mpg while my average is better than 60mpg in my '09 FEH. EPA for my FEH is combined at 32.5mpg. If your serious about improving your MPG in any thing you drive, go to Wayne's website at: http://www.cleanmpg.com/ and just read and ask questions.

[transitman]

My understanding according to Wayne, is full vacuum is only at an idle. As you press any on the accelerator, boost begins in any of the EcoBoost engines. This indicates to me that a moderate acceleration to a steady state speed will provide the best MPG. The reason? You're not spending a lot of time and distance sucking down fuel at a bad MPG. This doesn't mean floor it by any means. Once you get to your desired steady state speed, there is a technique called Pulse & Glide to use to improve MPG over what a steady state speed MPG will provide. I drive my '11 Explorer the same way and I don't have an EcoBoost engine.

 

I have also found that moderate acceleration when passing or on the entrance ramp maintains the current avg. mpg's or drops it a tenth or two, but it recovers quickly when I reach cruising speed. There is no need to punch the accelerator to the floor. My average mpg's never drop more than .5 mpg during my daily drives, depending on traffic and how many times I need to get up and go to avoid traffic and it is always back to where it started or within .1 or .2 when I reach my destination.

Edited March 3, 2013 by transitman

[GaryG]

I have also found that moderate acceleration when passing or on the entrance ramp maintains the current avg. mpg's or drops it a tenth or two, but it recovers quickly when I reach cruising speed. There is no need to punch the accelerator to the floor. My average mpg's never drop more than .5 mpg during my daily drives, depending on traffic and how many times I need to get up and go to avoid traffic and it is always back to where it started or within .1 or .2 when I reach my destination.

 

Great! You may want to try a high speed P&G in permitting traffic. It depends on weather you have fuel-cut or not as to what your glide will look like. Either way, you pulse up to a higher speed than you may normally drive and coast down to >10mph. With fuel-cut, you can just let off the accelerator till you reach a speed that you can begin a pulse back to your target speed again. Without fuel-cut, you can slowly reduce your speed (watch your Instant MPG shoot up) till you get to the point to pulse back to your target speed. I take advantage of my off-ramps to build-up my MPG till I get to the speed I want to be at merging on the road I'm turning on. The point here is to drive without using the brakes as much as possible.

[ScapeTom]

Thanks for the input, Gary. It would be nice to have a vacuum/pressure gauge on the dash to see where you're at in terms of boost. I'd like to see when I transition from vacuum to pressure.

 

That said, the engine honestly operates seamlessly, meaning that there's no turbo lag and no distinct audible whine. At least not that I can hear.I'm thinking that the transition from vac to pressure is very gradual during regular driving.

 

I love the performance of the 2.0 Ecoboost. It is a pleasure to sink the foot into the throttle, even though it can be expensive if done often (what car isn't?). I'm impressed by the response of the engine, and the lack of any kind of lag at all. It's a fun engine!

 

Anyway, I generally temper my driving. Ease up on the gas when approaching situations where I may have to stop. Steady speed. Normal acceleration most of the time (not hot-rod, not sluggish, 2-3K RPM range). I also tend to use cruise control on the highway because I don't want to have to pay attention to speed. I like to go faster than most, and I rely on the electronics to keep me below the "radar" so to speak. So, I'm probably not a good candidate for the "P&G" technique. I am getting a handle on tapering the throttle for hills and such so that I don't force an unnecessary downshift. It's a little different with an auto than it was with my stick shift. Sometimes, the transmission's idea of what's right differs from mine.

[Elf911]

Thanks for the input, Gary. It would be nice to have a vacuum/pressure gauge on the dash to see where you're at in terms of boost. I'd like to see when I transition from vacuum to pressure.

 

That said, the engine honestly operates seamlessly, meaning that there's no turbo lag and no distinct audible whine. At least not that I can hear.I'm thinking that the transition from vac to pressure is very gradual during regular driving.

 

I love the performance of the 2.0 Ecoboost. It is a pleasure to sink the foot into the throttle, even though it can be expensive if done often (what car isn't?). I'm impressed by the response of the engine, and the lack of any kind of lag at all. It's a fun engine!

 

Anyway, I generally temper my driving. Ease up on the gas when approaching situations where I may have to stop. Steady speed. Normal acceleration most of the time (not hot-rod, not sluggish, 2-3K RPM range). I also tend to use cruise control on the highway because I don't want to have to pay attention to speed. I like to go faster than most, and I rely on the electronics to keep me below the "radar" so to speak. So, I'm probably not a good candidate for the "P&G" technique. I am getting a handle on tapering the throttle for hills and such so that I don't force an unnecessary downshift. It's a little different with an auto than it was with my stick shift. Sometimes, the transmission's idea of what's right differs from mine.

 

Basically it's a boost gauge that most people put in their performance cars. AEM I've always preferred. But you can also get OBD-2 scan gauges that track that as well. I love my 2.0 and have been getting almost the same MPG and performance as my Jetta did until I cruise on the highway. Even at 55-65 in NJ or upstate NY I can't crack over 25 MPG to the EPA 28. But I also only have 1800 miles on the Escape

[rk2112]

I have over 10,000 miles I drive 80% highway (60-70 mph) and can't get over 22.8 mpg.

[sasscuba]

I have 1100 miles and baby the throttle and get 26+ mixed driving. Have not done a highway trip yet.

[ScapeTom]

Another mileage update - another trip to Florida and back. 26.5 overall MPG on the 1003 mile round trip. I'm pretty happy with this, considering that I wasn't exactly nursing the throttle. I wasn't leadfooted either (well, except for a couple of fun bursts of "yee-haw"). Average speed - basically 5 over the speed limit. I am not unhappy with this, though I do miss the 32 mpg I got with the Civic. Don't miss the cramped quarters though - a good trade for me.

[phil1336]

Well that settles it for me. Was contemplating replacing my 2011 Ford Fiesta SE Hatchback this coming summer with either a 2014 Ford Escape with its 2.0 Eco-Boost or opting for the 2014 Ford C-MAX Hybrid. Everyone`s blaming either the EPA or Ford/HKAG (Hyundia-Kia) for falsifying Fuel Economy Estimates. Ford did that on my 2011 Fiesta too! From Day 1 and Mile 1 I`ve gotten 33-34 MPG City and 41-43 MPG Highway (at 75 mph) with A/C always engaged. It "EXCEEDED" the EPA estimates! What`s that all about? This was an early production Fiesta ordered in Apr 2010 and I took delivery July 2010. Seems to me, even if the C-MAX does`nt maintain its projected 47 MPG it will still get a lot better fuel economy then the Escape. Factor in similar purchase price and the Hybrid`s higher projected residual value, to me, its a no brainer which vehicle to choose!

[jcthorne]

The C-Max is a much smaller car with a much lower riding position. It also is not available with AWD. The Escape is a CUV. I wish the Escape had an Energi PHEV option but it still would not get the same milage as a C-Max.

[transitman]

I'm interested in a purchasing a C-Max Energi 5-6 years down the road. I'll be retiring and moving to a community where many folks use their golf carts to drive to the store, rec centers and to the golf course. Everything is within a couple of miles of city streets and unless I go out on the highway, I'll rarely use gas. Anyway, I've compared the numbers between the Escape and C-Max, it does sit lower, but the exterior and the passenger volume is very close. Where the Escape is a utility vehicle, the C-Max is more of a "wagon". The C-Max does have much less cargo space behind the first and second rows. The Hybrid cargo floor is raised to accommodate the battery and the Energi's is raised even higher for the larger battery. I think by then I'll be less concerned about cargo space, as long as I can fit my golf clubs I'll be happy.

Edited March 16, 2013 by transitman

[sasscuba]

My current tank

[rscalzo]

Just saw this. Ford's take on mileage ratings.

 

http://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2013/03/ford-wants-new-way-to-measure-mileage/

[transitman]

I received my Ultra-Gauge yesterday and had a chance to set it up this morning and run some errands. I'm still learning it, but a couple of things I noticed is the turbo goes into boost more often than I thought. It's usually in the negative psi range when cruising on the highway or city streets with even throttle pressure, but I was surprised to see it jump up to +1 to +2 psi when applying slightly more throttle or climbing slight inclines. It's not much, but still some turbo boost which affects mileage. The average mpg's were very close between my UG and the dash reading, with the UG updating more frequently and reading slightly less than the dash. The instantaneous mpg's is really interesting. It was as low as 4-6 mpg's at take off and as high as 39 while cruising on the inter city freeway with a steady throttle, while the dash avg still read 26.4. I have a lot to learn about the gauge and how I can use it to improve my mileage. I still don't fully understand intake manifold pressure and the optimal percentage to achieve the best fuel economy. I read that manifold pressure should be equal to atmospheric pressure to maximize fuel efficiency. If anyone can enlighten me on this it will be greatly appreciated. More to come when I figure it out.

 

I finalized the pages on my Ultra-Gauge. On page 1 I have displayed: MPG's, Instantaneous MPG's, Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure, Barometric Pressure, Torque, Horsepower, % Engine Load and Boost psi. Page two is fuel use and throttle position, page 3-5 is systems, page 6 is short trip data and page 7 is long trip data.

Edited March 30, 2013 by transitman

[Ticmxman]

It seems that some are not getting "Pathetic Gas Mileage". Maybe this thread needs a new name or a new thread is needed.

Edited March 30, 2013 by Ticmxman

[blockisle9]

@Transitman.

Did I miss something?

Ultra-Gauge? That's not the update to the quad screen on the Escape, Correct?

Is that an after market item?

[transitman]

@Transitman.

Did I miss something?

Ultra-Gauge? That's not the update to the quad screen on the Escape, Correct?

Is that an after market item?

It's a OBD II plug in scanning device to monitor the vehicle system.

Find it here: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm

[blockisle9]

Thanks!

I thought I had a black out for a minute there.........

[ScapeTom]

Thanks for the link, Transitman! Interesting contraption. Might be worth the cost just to monitor things a bit more closely.

 

I'm far from a hypermiler, but it would be interesting to see the effects of different driving styles, conditions, etc on mileage as well as other aspects of the engine's operations. And, of course, being able to grab the error codes would be nice.

 

I have (note to self - need to sell) a Hondata Flashpro programmer for the Civic Si that I recently sold. It gives plenty of data also, plus you can do a great deal of programming of engine variables with it. It's a lot more useful for people that have modified their vehicles with aftermarket intakes, cams, headers, etc., but it also has some programming capability for the stock engine. It would be nice to have such a tool for the Ecoboost engine.

 

Short of a programmer (and for a lot less money), the UltraGauge sounds like a cool tool.

[mattinmotion]

Anybody have pics of the Ultra-Gauge mounted?

[sasscuba]

I just bought an OBD2 Bluetooth on Amazon for $23. Best one and I researched them for days. It does everything including being able to send signals to car to turn off trouble lights.

[sasscuba]

uses your smartphone

[svtenthusiast]

Be careful with the Ultra Gauge if you leave it plugged in to the OBD port all the time. I bought one for my 2012 Focus, and prompltly returned it after it drained the car battery overnight. At that time everyone stated an issue with it keeping the Focus electronics active, which drained the battery. Ultra Gauge then came out with a statement that it was not compatible with the 2012 Focus. I would think the Escape would be the same since it uses Focus electronics.

[transitman]

Be careful with the Ultra Gauge if you leave it plugged in to the OBD port all the time. I bought one for my 2012 Focus, and prompltly returned it after it drained the car battery overnight. At that time everyone stated an issue with it keeping the Focus electronics active, which drained the battery. Ultra Gauge then came out with a statement that it was not compatible with the 2012 Focus. I would think the Escape would be the same since it uses Focus electronics.

They seem to have addressed this. I made sure the device was programmed properly and it shuts down shortly after the vehicle is shut off.

 

Modes 0, 1, 2 and 4 operate the same. The only difference is that a different parameter is read from the vehicles computer. If the vehicle’s computer does not respond with the requested parameter after “Power off retires” attempts, the ignition is assumed OFF. These are the preferred options.

Edited March 31, 2013 by transitman