YT90SC

You do not need to remove the bumper cover, there are two far easier ways to access. Both start with removal of the under engine cover. The way I prefer: Take the right (passenger's) fender liner out. It's right there and can be easily changed. The WSM: Take the black plastic piece that covers the bottom of the cooling module off the bumper. Make sure that the wiring isn't chewed up. We get rabbits all the time that hide there and get bored and chew.

More Noise= More Power! Don't you know? Never mind that the 6.2 is a frigging dog compared to a HO 3.5 GTDI... If hamsters having an orgy on a wheel and make more power, I wouldn't care. Power is power. If you don't like the noise that the Raptor makes in the cabin, have your local dealer go into "programmable parameters" and switch off the engine noise enhancer. Makes a HUGE difference.

Cold? With age and mileage, it is fairly common to develop vacuum leaks that are worst during warm-up. Check the intake gaskets, PCV inlet o-ring, PCV system or o-ring around the EGR nozzle in the intake. You mean you cleaned the MAF, right? 04 shouldn't have a MAP. Does the commanded gear (read with a scan tool) match the attained gear? What are the long and short fuel trims doing while it is occuring? Do you have a physical aftermarket performance chip in the J connector in the back of the PCM? What is the fuel pressure doing at the time it is occuring?

I gotta ask: what was wrong with the SHO? They were fantastic cars for their time.

Most of my Rangers (and I've had quite a few) have been 2wd, M5OD and Lima powered, so stoplight racing was never in the picture and neither was a high towing rating. I'd want to replace it with something guaranteed reliable, preferably with a stick, but not a deal breaker. Since realistically we are talking what will fit in the engine bay of a T. Connect, my favored engine would be 2.0 N/A, or 2.0 Ecoboost. Absolutely nothing with a "1" in the displacement.

Corporate doesn't, but the dealers... wait... they make very little too. Fwiw, Akirby talking about it not making sense, during the school year (if we have one again) , I daily my Focus to drop kids off. Summer time, it is my 2WD regular cab shorty Ranger. If I had to get something to replace one, or both, I might consider this, if it is offered with the right powertrain.

The vacuum system is made of the EATC control head, the lines, a check valve near the engine, a reservoir and door vacuum servos for the mode (floor, defrost,vent), recirculation door and the water shutoff. That is the water shutoff, not a blend door. In MAX AC vacuum is supplied to the recirculation door in the cabin and to the water valve in addition to the mode door to move it to VENT. What you are seeing in the valve is a symptom, most likely. IF you think it is the valve, just plug the vacuum line with a golf tee and retest. You have a vacuum leak or a failure of the vacuum control part of the EATC. The blend door, which sets the temp of the air, is controlled by an electric motor.

Either a vacuum leak in the recirc door or the EATC module head is junk. IF you google repairing them, supposedly you can replace the o rings in them.

The glass was DEFINITELY NOT fine. Recalls for exploding back glass was a HUGE issue in the 02 redesign. Even the recall hinges corrode and break, the strut mounts do the same, which led to glass failures too. AS Kev-Mo said, cost is a huge factor, with the fact that complexity breeds more failure points (latches, hinges, struts, strut mount balls), and they ALWAYS squeaked around the glass closure, which is unacceptable with the prices they command.

April 8th 2019 is the last date that the TSB applies to for Escape. So, it would be after that.

Know what your service department calls a 20k mile service interval? "CP 6006". As for "normal" service intervals: You can theoretically go that far when you use quality oil and filters. I wouldn't. An awful lot can happen to a car in 10k or a year. Mouses' houses made out of the air cleaner, tire wear from a pothole, a small leak over a long period, just a few of the unplanned things that can happen and cost you LOTS in a short period, let alone a year... Service is cheap. And no, the dealership is NOT making a killing selling "The Works". "But why can Quickey Monkey" and "Ceiling Store" sell their service cheaper?" Because they use cheap oil and filters, pay poorly and are all about the upsell. An "orange can of death" or other low grade filter and certain brands of "pennsylvania crude" will not adequately do their jobs out that far. A good link: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/55

There is a little bit of loss of pedal feel/stopping distance before the pads are burnished to the rotors. When the brakes were bled, did they do the ABS service bleed as well as conventional bleed? Sometimes pushing caliper pistons back causes debris from the calipers to enter the master or abs and it can cause a soft pedal. Sometimes pumping the pedal through the whole master travel can damage the master as it has debris/corrosion that is usually not touched. But I wouldn't hammer a master in it yet... Do all caliper pins move free and lubed properly with XG-3-A? Are the pad perches clean and lubed with XG-3-A so the pad smoothly travels on the perch? On the front, there is an inboard and an outboard pad. Do you have the inboard pad (two humps on top) on the inboard side on *both* fronts and the non-humped on the outside? Take all four wheels off and have someone press, then release the pedal. Watch for move-back of the caliper. It should release the pad, but not cause a gap between the pad and rotor or pad and caliper. Sometimes when you push the caliper back the seals will 'take a set' and pull the caliper back from the pads. The only fix there is caliper replacement. If everything looks ok thus far, you should consider master replacement.

Since 1997, F150 has had a different suspension than heavier trucks. After 2003 (or 2004 Heritage) they use struts that can't kick the spring out if the lift is done poorly. They have independent front suspension that is nearly immune to death wobble. F150 with levelling kits always kill IWEs and upper ball joints faster than stock trucks. The suspension wasn't designed to run at nearly the end of travel like a levelling kit makes it. Otherwise, headlight aim, loss of visibility, rougher ride, loss of MPG and "carolina lean" when loaded are all the same. Admittedly, I am old and just want quiet and comfortable in my junk.

The 99 and 04 had leaf spring front suspensions and are far less prone to it. As Wizard said, ANY solid axle front end can. Heep Wranglers and the old Heep Cherokees were AWFUL about it. I've even ridden in a Squarebody GM that was bad. Death wobble is a violent harmonic oscillation. The front suspension begins to "ring" like a huge tuning fork. Anything that changes the harmonic of the suspension can lessen or increase the propensity of it. Tires/pressures, loose/damaged/missing parts, track bar angle not matching drag link angle for people who modify, etc.

They are all prone to it. Some don't, but an awful lot do. 18s also had a high rate of dropped valves before the first oil change. See a lot of F150 using oil as well. The ones I've heard sure sound like they're coming from the cam phasers, but I am not sure as we aren't allowed to fix them.

Three words: Powertrain CARE ESP.

None. You will lose fuel economy, lose some forward close visibility, blind oncoming drivers if you don't properly reset the headlamps, potentially cause more issues with death wobble and bump steer, put more wear into the joints of the front driveshaft, and "Carolina Lean" as soon as you put anything in the cargo box. If you go with "spacer only" kits you are guaranteed a rougher ride and potentially other issues down the road like part failure and spring kick out. If you "just have to" use a reputable company like Rough Country or the like and contact them with your spring codes and they should be able to get you set up.

Remember that early 13's are nearly 8 years old. The average person drives something like 10-15k/yr? 20k/yr puts them easily at 150k miles. See a few at/near 200k. The trans is almost always the first failure and even then they can usually be PartyPack (R) -ed cheaper than a reman. Once in a while get a turbo due to wear on the waste gate rod/pivot. 100% Totally agree on all the PTU's.

If it is NOT AWD, almost any FWD can be dollied as the front wheels are off the ground. On almost any AWD, dolly towing WILL damage the rear axle's coupler as they were not designed to operate with such a severe difference in front to rear axle speed. The issue with Fusion - it has a very low overhang on the front that may or may not be easy to get on/off the dolly, although there are different dollies available. Have seen some people damage the front facia/cooling module because of it. Test it on your tow rig with the car before you buy it to be sure. As for flat tow, there are still things that can go wrong. Have seen a lot of folks cause damage to many different kinds of transmissions that were supposedly rated for it.

The EXACT same thing as the 1.5L, as we have been over several times on this thread: Cut passages vs drilled, I don't think anything else changed. Have seen a LOT of high mileage 2.0 Ecoboosts. Service the trans regularly and it should go a long way.

Strongly suggest you flush or replace the cooler and thermostat in the lines. You have to program in the new TRID (TRansmission IDentification) tag when you are done. You also have to reset KAM and perform the solenoid body relearn test drive. Probably would be a good idea to have the latest PCM calibration installed as well. The subframe has to be removed as well as the PTU if it is AWD and the rear catalyst as well. The hard plastic backer and the seal for the cooler lines MUST be installed on the lines before you install the lines into the trans. The torque converter hub LOVES to stick in the back of the crank. Heat all exhaust nuts before you try and remove it. If you get a used/reman you need to make sure the fluid type matches your current trans. I believe they changed either late 2007 or mid year 2008, but don't quote me. SO if you have Mercon V, you have to install a Mercon V equipped trans. If it has Mercon LV, you have to install a Mercon LV equipped trans and use the correct fluid. You have to have a way to hold up the back of the engine while the trans is removed.

Tremec. Aisin. Borg/Warner. New Venture. And as much as I loathe them, ZF. As for guibos, the updated ones that were installed on the first recall are failing enough they have re-recalling them. It may still be source issues, but the ultimate fix is going to be replacement with U joints.

Akirby, you're right. Keeping ANY large organization in check has to be hard. And I have absolutely seen time and again where one hand doesn't even know the other even exists at Ford. I also think that there must be *a lot* of turnover in engineering. It seems like they fix a design/ quality issue only to have the exact same crop up again in a few years. For instance: Guibos. Why in the lilly blue F**k would they evan attempt that on their most important SUV after the debacle with Transit? OR: Why in the hell are they still doing/sourcing ANYTHING with Getrag? At least they finally learned their lesson with Navistar.

Throughout my career, it has TOTALLY been a pendulum with them. They build great stuff for a few years, build profit margins, then swing the other way, get lax and build low quality part and QC nightmares. (FYI: not blaming actual assembly here, because I know it isn't all on them.) While doing so they try to maintain profit margins until they realize what they have done, then start the cycle over again. We are definitely still in that swing to crap. What is always infuriating is a few dollars spent in the right places and a modicum of common sense in engineering/development would cure their most of their ills. It is far easier for them to dream up new schemes to take money from the repairing dealerships and keep decreasing part cost (and therefore quality), even though that will not add up to anything real in terms of savings.

Typical of Ford. They don't seem to grasp what they really need to do to stop paying out so much.