YT90SC

a tire with a cut is NOT a warranty-able defect. The tire was cut. This is not a defect in the manufacture or production of the tire or vehicle. Something (road debris? punk kid? scorned woman? etc..) cut it. Unless you paid for road hazard coverage of the tire, unfortunately you have no recourse because (not saying you did) but you could have hit something. You DO have warranty starting from original date of sale, but as for the scratch, it is a used vehicle, demo or not. Same with the floor mats. Sweet talking the dealer is probably your best bet. They should take care of you, but are not legally bound to.

That is a homeade version of the Fusion/Milan key....

The owner's manual specifically states to not use more than 5% bio.... IF you think ONLY Ford is having this issue, guess again...

You have, without a doubt, the worst dealership in history. TAKE IT TO ANOTHER ONE!!!

I think in the owner's manual it says all child seats are a bad idea in the back. Put em in the front seat and turn off the airbag.

As was said, do your homework, but intake, exhaust, programmer headers, cams....

Skipper, the REAL problem with your truck is that the dealership you are using has a 'parts changer' for a diesel tech. Unfortunately the FSE you got to come look at it gets zilch for time to work on your truck. He is also usually blinded by what the 'tech' and I use that term loosely in this situation, tells him. He also may or may not be a 'diesel' guy as FSE's usually wear all the hats, not just one. It sounds to me like you have two or more problems with the truck. VGT/EGR positioning, and fuel supply issues. I say VGT/EGR positioning because VGT/EGR can be mispoisitoned by: sticking VGT unison ring/vanes/actuator/control solenoid MAF malfunction EGR sticking/position sensor mis read EBP malfunction (or incorrect infer on late calibrations) IAT2 malfunction exhaust leaks boost leaks unmetered air leak between the turbo and maf aftermarket air filters aftermarket programmers/boxes incorrect load infer due to base engine power concern (misses or fuel issues) VGT learn procedure not followed Does it have the latest calibration with EBP infer and cold start injector fix? If it doesn't, you need it. If it does, has it been allowed to go thru the 'VGT learn' procedure? Has it ever had a new MAF? Since it has been apart several times, does it have any boost or exhaust side leaks? Since it was overboosting, does the intercooler have a split in it? This engine is NOT hard to fix. You need a good diesel tech. There are a lot of trucks out there without any problems and yours can be one too. Find another dealer. -------------------- Dad always said,"Knowledge is limited but stupidity knows no bounds."

Skipper, the REAL problem with your truck is that the dealership you are using has a 'parts changer' for a diesel tech. Unfortunately the FSE you got to come look at it gets zilch for time to work on your truck. He is also usually blinded by what the 'tech' and I use that term loosely in this situation, tells him. He also may or may not be a 'diesel' guy as FSE's usually wear all the hats, not just one. It sounds to me like you have two or more problems with the truck. VGT/EGR positioning, and fuel supply issues. I say VGT/EGR positioning because VGT/EGR can be mispoisitoned by: sticking VGT unison ring/vanes/actuator/control solenoid MAF malfunction EGR sticking/position sensor mis read EBP malfunction (or incorrect infer on late calibrations) IAT2 malfunction exhaust leaks boost leaks unmetered air leak between the turbo and maf aftermarket air filters aftermarket programmers/boxes incorrect load infer due to base engine power concern (misses or fuel issues) VGT learn procedure not followed Does it have the latest calibration with EBP infer and cold start injector fix? If it doesn't, you need it. If it does, has it been allowed to go thru the 'VGT learn' procedure? Has it ever had a new MAF? Since it has been apart several times, does it have any boost or exhaust side leaks? Since it was overboosting, does the intercooler have a split in it? This engine is NOT hard to fix. You need a good diesel tech. There are a lot of trucks out there without any problems and yours can be one too. Find another dealer.

The 5.0l's had 4R70W's built domestically. (Sharonville Ky, I think, I could be wrong) The 4r70w started out life as the AOD in the '80 A-bodies. The only Explorers with 'Japanese' trannies were the 5 speed manuals.. they were Mazda M5R1's...

Is 5th gone as well? 2nd and 5th require the OD band because 2nd is just 1st overdriven. If these trannies aren't serviced regularly with good fluid, the bore for the OD band servo gets worn and the servo doesn't move properly, damaging the band and the drum. The problem is two fold: 1. the OD servo comes on for 2nd and 5th, cycling it twice for each run through all 5 gears. 2. The servo doesn't press squarely on the apply strut, which side loads the rod. Poor, dirty fluid will GREATLY accelerate the wear caused by side load..... The fix is a new case or www.servobore.com. To prevent this in the future, I wouldn't got more than 30k between trans services, and would install a new inline filter from Motorcraft each time. Be sure that you have an inline filter installed when you get it repaired.

What year truck? 2WD or 4x4? Which transmission? AND MOST IMPORTANTLY: What do you want to spend?

Just closed Sheridan/Interstate Ford in Pacific Junction IA today.

I agree with MOST of what you said, but you forgot to mention the greatest 'birds ever. I love Fox birds (especially the 87 and 88 turbocoupes) but the 89 to 95 Supercoupes were the pinnacle of Thunderbird. (89 and 90 XR7 Cougar as well) Style, comfort, good handling from four wheel independant suspension and and GOBS of supercharged torque mated to an available 5 speed. What more could you want? Unfortunately for all the MN12's variants they let her fall prey to lack of imagination. The 'nothing faster than mustang' corprate directive allowed them to wither. ALL SC owners know the exhaust restirction purposely designed into the resonnator so as not to compete with their precious 5.0l mullet master mustangs was just criminal. Sorry gettin sidetracked.... We forget the accolade the 89 recieved, especially the Supercoupe. True, they were a bit portly, but if they (Ford) had allowed Colletti to make SVO t-birds, the story would have been different. If they had ADVERTISED the Mark VIII as the halo car it was, Lincoln would have been better off. It is sad, because the other best Fords from the 80's (Taurus/Sable and Ranger) seem to all be suffering that same fate--BIG splash in the 80's, some changes for the 90's and allowed to swing in the wind thereafter.

Sorry guys I gotta respectfully disagree. You should never fill to the top of the crosshatch. The number of quarts specified is the number you should put in. The best fill is usually half to 3/4's up the stick. The reason is this: what if the stick is wrong? The stick is a very crude measure of the oil level, if truth be told. OFTEN they are wrong from the factory, let alone if the stick has been swapped... THe truth is IF you over fill, the crank might not be able to shed its oil, especially if the pan has a built in windage tray or a scraper. IF you keep filling, the crank actually can hit the oil. Either condition can lead to oil aireation (sp?), which can lead to loss of oil pressure and engine damage or poor running in HEUI type diesels. Too much splash can cause excess oil usage because it can flood the cylinder walls and the oil control rings can't stay in front of it. It can even cause a rough feeling to the engine as the crank (or counterbalance on 4.0l's) hits the oil it makes a vibration. Not shedding the oil adds weight to the crank which can cause engine imbalance or make it feel sluggish. (remember racers add scrapers and windage trays to rid the crank of excess oil) Then let's add the price of extra oil, which is what started this thread in the first place....

A LOT of 'XL' 90's era F-series wear 'Custom' badges on the dash. Rarely in the 90's did they say 'custom' on the outside. It goes back further: my 77 F-100 is an "Explorer Custom"

when you say it loses bass, do you have the subwoofer in the passenger's rear? IF so, have the ground above the woofer/amplifier checked. I have seen several loose. Sounds EXACTLY like the couple I have seen... even if it doesn't have the woofer, they should check the grounds anyhow.

Hate to tell you this, but if your tires have been rotated correctly and are wearing unevenly, the alignment isn't 'flawless'. Most vehicles are 'in spec', but 'in spec' doesn't necessarily mean that it is set right. Most Rangers come off the transport 'in spec' but chew the bejeezus out of the tires. F-series aren't usually as bad though. What is wrong with your tires? How often do you rotate them?

Possibly. Check with your local dealer. Have your VIN ready. Yes. Fro now though leave it unplugged. Your cruise will be inop, but it won't catch fire.

There is a reason Mustang doesn't come standard with ABS: "the mullet factor". Guys who read HOT ROD p!ss and moan about the fact that AC is standard, let alone abs. With no GM F-bodies, they have to find a way to appeal to the mullets somehow---solid rear axles and stripper GT's. "The mullet factor" is the reason that DCX calls their engines 'Hemi'. (THey even advertise this) THe mullet factor is why GM builds the 8.1L 'big block' abomination for their trucks. The mullet factor is why you can still buy a new-in-the-box carburator and $100 SBC 'rebuild' kits.

Unfortuantely, no one has any concrete numbers on ANY of those questions.

Kenp, the dealer you are using sucks. Go to another. To not check operating pressures is not checking the A/C at all. As far as the u/j's are concerned, the replacement joints come with the tool to cut the stakes, a new u/j and snap rings to replace the old stakes. The shaft DOES have the grooves to accept clips. As far as price on the u/j's I am not sure, but the labor shouldn't have been over 1.5 hr for two joints.

www.tccoa.com No better MN-12 site on the web. My 95 4.6 has 170k. At 100k, the engine is just gettin broken in good.

If F-150 isn't the current class leader then who is? Which half ton is the benchmark? F-150 may give up peak hp numbers to a couple makers, but are they as capable across the board? PEAK hp isn't the only judge of a good truck. Other makers may have more "gee whiz" electronic or convience stuff, but again, are the trucks as overall good? The upcoming GM offerings and the new Tundra will be real hardcore competitors, but they are UPCOMING and no doubt used the CURRENT F-150 as a benchmark. Toy did, after all OBVIOUSLY use the last gen f-150 as the benchmark for the current Tundra. When F-150 gets a redesign, they will be playing catchup again. And as far as the 6.0 goes, the bugs are for the most part gone. A compotent tech can easily fix any problem, and fix the root cause too. The worst thing that happens is that most techs don't look for or fix the root cause of the failure. I.E. Injectors don't just fail on their own any more, something causes them to fail. I know of a truck that had 13, yes 13 injectors put in it because the tech working on it before didn't diagnose the root cause of the problem: a failing HPOP that contaminated the injectors. If he had taken the time to properly diag the thing the first time the customer would have been much happier, and the truck wouldn't have had unnecesary repairs.

The controls necessary are already in use in the 6.0, and are more reliable than those on the 7.3. True, software was a major issue at first, but mechanical complexity and the lack of maintainance and or abuse by the owner are more prevelant than software bugs. The latest 03 software is by far the best, but it is intolerant of modifications by the aftermarket. igor is right, this is a good, solid technology.

This IS simpler. 7.3 had 1 huge 110V solenoid to pull a sprung ball off a seat which let let the HP-oil into the injector, pushing down the intensifier piston, compressing the fuel and opening the poppet valve to start injection. To end injection, the solenoid shuts off, stopping the flow of oil as the ball returns to its seat. The intensifier piston assembly has to then return to pre-injection position (via a spring) and the bore has to refill with fuel to ready for the next firing event. 6.0 dropped solenoid working voltage to 48 volts, but it has two. A shuttle valve instead of a ball and seat control HPO in the injector. Otherwise almost identical to the 7.3, except size. For peizo injectors, turn it on, it fires, turn it off it doesn't. In addition, common rail does away with the HPO system completely, reduces the number of parts in the injector itself, less wiring, and less demand on an injector driver module, if it is needed at all. Common rail also almost completely does away with mechanical injection lag associated with HEUI. It can (and usually does) fire the injector several times per stroke, where HEUI cannot. Remember the 6.0 started out with pilot injection which was unsustainable mechanically with even the smaller, lighter 6.0 injector. 7.3 had a mechanical pilot which was great at idle but reduced max power. With common rail and the peizo type injector, you can tailor pressure rise across the whole power stroke. This allows for better power, lower fuel consumption, lower emissions and quieter operation. It does add a HP-Fuel pump, which brings its own issues, but should be as reliable as the older distributor style pumps at a minimum.