YT90SC

Phasers don't tick. They knock or rattle. Check that the plugs are tight. If it was recently tuned up, most people tend to leave the plugs loose and they tick. Also if aftermarket plugs were used, they tend to come apart and have issues. Make sure that all 8 studs are intact on the manifolds. If all that is ok, pull the valvecover and check that it hasn't broken a spring or ruined a roller follower.

Akirby, no Tesla doesn't make a ton of money, but they definitely push the envelope of what the technology can do. They have also made their patents available to all. Billions were also given to Ford and Nissan for product development at the same time if I remember right. Tesla builds a race car, a hideously fast and fun to drive saloon, working on the model X and the previously named E (that Ford sued them over) and is building real world infrastructure for charging their cars. Ford built an electric Focus. Nissan built the Leaf.

To go from scratch to where they are now is fairly incredible, honestly. And to compare a Model S to a Fusion, ANY Fusion is silly.

I'm with J150... Falcon is a great name plate.

OE tires are picked for their blend of characteristics. They must first be low rolling resistance, then ride well and be quiet. Traction never seems to be a high priority. That being said, they are usually not the best tires. Former Expedition owner, how often do you rotate the tires? IF they have never been rotated, they will get choppy due to the alignment specs of the rear suspension.

Price a Chevy and a Dodge with comparable equipment.

The paint didn't crack on the 97-03. The doors did. I have two cracked ones on my truck.

In my shop we pull vehicles in for the night when customers insist that they be. Then move them out in the morning so we can get in and out of the main shop. We often work on big vehicles outside so as to not stop up the aisles or the lifts. Seems pretty legit to me.

Anything has to be better than the current Sigmas.

1. Any Ford dealer can get you a key. I think they are <$50. Most locksmiths can as well, though you might need to come up with a blank for them to cut. 2. They stopped putting door codes on BCM's years ago. Its stored in the module and can be easily accessed with an IDS scan tool. 2a & 3. The fob sends the signal to the RFA to start the vehicle. It must be present to start. 4. As long as it is not heavier than the rated hitch tongue weight. Off the top of my head I cant remember what that number is. 5. I like Weathertech myself, but to each his own. If you like the huskys, go with them.

Flanges warp sometimes. Get a pair of fiber gaskets and double gasket it.

Its a 6.4. They don't hold value well at all, so don't expect a whole lot in the way of cash, no matter how you cut it. Be glad that a HPF system failure didn't get it first. We just did an '04 6.0 burn victim (>$6k) that looked worse than that, other than your hood damage. YOUR insurance should be involved, because you said yourself it has had issues for several weeks. It just happened to catch fire at the dealer. Looks to me like it started near the right battery cable area? What started it?

The third gen SHO was a failure because there was a huge premium for what you got. In the GEN 1 and GEN 2 days the little Yamaha was a cosmic leap in power over the 2.5 HSC, 3.0 Vulcan and 3.8 Essex's. Not to mention that it would rocket along to that glorious redline.... In Gen 3, the Duratec 3.0 was good enough that most decided that the slight bump in power to the Yamaha V8 (with increased weight) wasn't worth it.

I did some checking. Its for the inflatable second row seat belts.

That USB looks an awful lot like an Apple to USB cord. Someone dropped it.

JPD- one jackass with an axe to grind is not going to make or break Ford. These failures are just not that common, period. Akirby is right, Fordtech is right. This reeks of our old friend that is no longer with us with a broken intake manifold well out of warranty (and after the M program expired) on his used Vic....

The software does nothing to prevent failure -BUT- it wasn't supposed to. It just allows some assist after a failure was determined to prevent having NO assist. That was not there before, and it needed to be as a small momentary glitch could cause a no assist issue until re-key. It just widened parameters to allow a little more leeway in how the sensor is read to ignore the glitches. These are NOT a high volume failure and most other manufacturers are experiencing failures of their systems as well. DPoS6 is a high volume failure. 6.0L was a high volume failure, this isn't. FYI:The EPAS in the Escape from the OP is an entirely different system as the Explorer. Early Escapes had EPAS in the column and a manual rack. EPAS in the Explorer is contained in the rack. I stand behind what Fordtech says. Too many people want something for nothing.

Fordtech is 100% on the money with this. There is a segment of the population that would not be happy if Ford gave them a brand new vehicle.

You don't have to have it. You DO need to have the driveshaft rebalanced.

Ford had a MAJOR Sync server issue recently. I don't know if they use the same server for FCSD as on the customer access side, but it could be that the information you downloaded might not be correct or whole.

Nevermind, I looked at your other thread. Does it only rattle at idle? Once it is rattling, unplug the VCT solenoids but keep the same RPM. Does the rattle go away?

Again, you still could have low HOT oil pressure. You still could have issues with the timing components- including miss timing. You still could have plugging of the oil galleys for the phasers/tensioners. It literally could take just ONE bit of crap in the wrong spot to have issues again. You still could have head issues. I've seen remans with the phaser bolts mistorqued and the locating pin sheared off. New/Reman does not mean "good". Does it do it as soon as it is started? Does it have to get warm to rattle? Does it do it with the VCT solenoids unplugged?

What is your oil pressure at hot idle? It HAS to be 20 PSI or more. Also, low oil pressure will show up on bank 1 first as it is the furthest from the pump. Just because you installed a reman engine doesn't mean it is good. Also, it is possible to plug the oil galley- especially on the bank 1 side- with gunk from a low quality oil filter or gunk that has not gotten cleaned out of parts that are reused when putting a reman engine in, like the oil pan, valve covers, etc. Which engine was put in? Long block? Short block? If you didn't use NEW heads or at least fully reman heads where the bearing surfaces are recut and actual bearings installed, you will get the same issues again.

Fordtech is right. I forgot the key in ignition issue as well. I've also done a metric crapton of newer F-150s for ignition switch issues. They use the same basic switch.

Neither. 2.7 Eco (still with start/stop and A-DFSO) with the hydraulic hybrid componentry that was under development a few years ago.