YT90SC

Being NON green state emissions and OVER 8500, it probably won't set a code for evap issues. Its too dumb a system. If I remember right, I dont think it has any real way to monitor true flow. IT does not have a Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor and I dont think they used a purge flow (PF) sensor either. So that is just left with the circuit monitor for the solenoid. Blocked, kinked or otherwise it can't tell if the flow is there when commanded. Without a code being set, I would imagine its ok electrically, just mechanically amiss. Be sure that the vac line is open as well, especially where it connects to engine vaccuum. They love to get mushy and suck shut when running, but look ok engine off.

Sounds like the fuel tank is building pressure and the evap system cannot handle it. Even though there are no codes, the evap system is malfunctioning. First, is this a green state/California emission vehicle? I am assuming it isn't, but if it is, the diagnostics change. IS the canister vent valve (electrical valve between canister and engine) functioning normally, lines intact and not plugged there? Is the fuel tank venting system allowing it to vent?

Nick, its happening more and more. Production gets supplied first and parts are made as needed. Its called "just in time" production. If it is an uncommon part or a part that there is a SUDDEN increase in demand due to an unexpectedly high failure rate (DPS6 clutches for instance) it can and does take days, weeks and in the case of the aforementioned clutch MONTHS. Inconvienent on customers, devastating to the tech trying to fix it. And you CANNOT swap modules anymore. Swapping modules car to car can cause unrecoverable issues with software within the module, effectively killing the module. Todays complexity has effectively ended that practice.

Fuel quality and driving style/environment are EVERYTHING for todays cars, and effect ANY hybrid moreso. For instance, my parents own a C-max and their overall lifetime average is the 'revised' average EPA sticker on the dot. But they do a lot of higher speed highway. Mom's numbers bring it down and Dads bring it up. My uncle has the identical car, save for he has MFT and chose a different color. His lifetime average is 52. He drives three seasons, fills it with real 'regular' gas (no ethanol) and has an almost perfect commute for it.

If this is true, good thing all those 'sports car guys' finally got their heavy ass IRS. This thing better pull a G and a half on the skidpad and slalom like a cat....

That is the 2wd diesel. There is no way that ANY of their gas powertrains get close to that.

I never used any of those products. They don't work all that well, from most people I have talked to. Take a lot of time and don't perform all that well. As most technicians are on commission, the time needed to use another tool is not worth it. I always set the wheel on the hub, rotate it to line up the studs and slide it on. I don't usually struggle all that hard with them, I guess. I do have a product called a Dually buddy to free them from the hubs when they are corroded together that works like a dream. One thing that does help when you are low (i.e. not using a lift) is sitting your butt on the ground and using your feet as much as you can.

Obviously you're frustrated, but did you take anyone for a drive to show them the noise? What you hear may not be what others hear... Their driving habits my not be able to cause the noise where yours can... Either way, to fix a concern, the tech, any tech, has to be able to reproduce it. Hopefully you didn't approach them with the attitude that you have shown on this post as all service writers and techs strive to be professional, but are human at the core. Honey vs Vinegar, my friend.

Under the wiper cowl on the passenger's side.

The sunload sensor has nothing to do with DRL operation. It supplies an input for autolamp operation and to the HVAC for heating and cooling. DRL's are lights (sans markers) that are on anytime the key is on. They used to be dim versions of the low beams only, but the current crop (super bright LED's) are blinding to oncoming traffic.

There are several tools to help, but you don't need them. Just don't jack the truck up so high. Slide the wheels on and off. No lifting required.

They're not using the tools right. And probably not using an impact gun on the plugs. I have yet to break my original extractor and I've had it for years.

Apparently you think I was attacking you in some way, I was not. I simply stated fact. 1. Most americans do not want them. 2. There is NO net reduction in accidents due to them. 3. They ARE distracting in many situations. Designed to attract attention to that particular car, another driver momentarily staring at them might not notice something else that they should see- a pedestrian, animal or debris in the road, another car. 4. They annoy me. Akirby and myself never said anything about motorcycles, nor making them illegal.

PATs has to have 2 valid keys stored. It left the factory with 2 keys.

The majority of americans don't want them is why they are not standard. They are annoying and distracting to other drivers and have been found to offer no net reduction in accidents.

I bet that the roll out will be similar to the 6 speed roll out. The 6F35 came much later than the 6F50/55. I was under the impression that these were for 6F55 and 6R80 replacements not a 6F35.

The VDR concept has been around for a very long time. The original launched with SBDS in/around 1990. It monitored EEC IV systems, and started to do limited EECV / OBDII. (I own and operate a FUCNTIONAL SBDS). The current VDR came out with the now defunct WDS. It can monitor almost any function that IDS can with enough refresh rate to actually capture an intermittent fault. VDR's update rate is actually faster than most update rates of all but the highest end aftermarket scan tools, let alone recorders. I've never seen an aftermarket reverse engineered device that could come close to doing what a VDR can. VDR costs can be attributed to a small run (not every dealer even bought ONE) of highly capable purpose built systems. I don't remember who contracted them, but it was not cheap. It is also older technology that cost more at the time than current does. Scan tools were the same. When my SBDS was new it was specifically contracted through HP, cost $50,000 and was limited by its "286" and "386" processors. It is huge and even the portable part is heavy and very cumbersome. WDS was smaller and faster and covered all the items that IDS now does, but was non upgradeable a total turd. (WDS's official name was Worldwide Diagnostic System though it earned the name Wont Do Sh!t in the service bays as it was ultra unreliable) Most WDS's died before IDS was available to take its place. But it could be bought for around $12,000 for a fully optioned system. The VCMII can be bought for around $900 plus laptop and software license, and is upgradeable. (Which one may note was cheaper than the NGS was) Optional VMM brings a 4 channel lab scope to play too. As Fordtech said, we have to protect them and not hand them out all willy nilly. They are out of production and therefore cannot be readily replaced. The new VCM II is too valuable as a primary scan tool to allow it to be out as a VDR. Most dealerships don't own their VCMII's as that burden has shifted to the individual tech. Under warranty it is nearly impossible for the tech to get paid for all of his time to install them and/or read data off of them. Also as Fordtech said, so many times a customer CANNOT duplicate the concern even with the VDR installed.. or if they do make recordings they are crap cause the customer has tried to anticipate the issue and recorded nothing but normal function... or the customer swears its a transmission issue when it isn't so the tech concentrates on a trans issue and the problem is not caught cause the PIDs that are recorded are transmission and not say.. fuel pressure... or the problem occurred one time in 15k miles several months ago... or... or... or... A VDR is usually a last resort or given to a customer whom we know we will get it back from, when there is a good probability that the problem can be caught.

Has to be programmed. The PCM and TCM software have to match.

I think it is a wash as far as reliability, engine wise. Transmissions are a different tale. The 6F50/55 that comes mated to the 3.5 is a world more reliable than the 6F35 that comes with the 2.0. As far as fuel mileage, it really really depends on driving habits and available fuel quality if the 2.0 will indeed do better than the 3.5.

I've seen an awful lot of the champions blow the ceramic out of the metal part of the plug. Stick with the Motorcrafts.

99.9% of the time its the DPFE sensor, not the valve, not the solenoid.

Guessing that dealer 2 probably does an induction/injection service to try and break up the carbon/junk that holds the plug shroud. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. At the dealer I work at we get $289 + $50/ broken plug up to $200. Here, there is a local aftermarket chain that gets a thousand up front, if they break any they charge from there. Droppin a grand sounds like a lot, and it is, but remember that an 04 is 10 years old. Tires for the same rig are going to be that much or more. Stack the deck in your favor and run some cleaner in the fuel and some GM Top Engine Cleaner through it as the instructions say on the can. Then hammer them out with a stout 3/8 inch impact wrench (not Harbor Freight) set on high and don't let off the throttle till it comes free. Hold it perfectly in line with the plug as angling it tends to break more. Then if any break, use the Lisle tool, making sure to blow out the hole with compressed air after each step and bottom the tool out as it is supposed to be. TORQUE the replacements to spec (24lb.ft) with nickel antisieze applied to the shroud but NOT the threads. Some guys try and remove them while still hot, but I have not seen a difference, other than the pain in the ass quotient goes up.

The biggest issue with this era car (and Explorer/Mountaineer, T-birds) - the transmission. The 5R55 family (except E's) have issues with OD planetary thrust washer failure, as well as band servos due to side loading (bad design) on the servo pin. The wear will cause the pin to stick or leak, leading to sags, flares, clunks etc. The OD band comes on for two gears - 2nd and 5th - so it wears at least twice as fast as the intermediate, though due to normal driving can wear far faster. Get the transmission to operating temperature, and force downshifts 5-4, 5-3, 5-2, 3-2, 4-2. If all downshifts are normal it is probably ok. IF any of them (particularly the 3-2) flare, bang, sag, etc, just plan on a servo bore repair in your future. If engagements are harsh/delayed at all, plan on replacement of the solenoid pack and, likely, the OD planetary. V-8's seem to suffer more OD planetary thrust washer failures from the higher loads.

Take the batteries out of the remotes. The remotes CAN get corroded inside and trigger accidentally.

Lipstick on a pig if they continue with the DPS6.