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Hi bobbyd. Have you tried going into the system settings and disabling reminders completely, as also mentioned previously? Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi bobbyd. Either choose "Yes" and allow the updates to install, or disable reminders in the SYNC system settings. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Alex. X-Plan and X-Plan Partner Company pricing is based off Dealer Invoice price (see below), and does not vary from company to company. Here is the basic X-Plan pricing breakdown: Ford Dealer Invoice - (0.4% * Dealer Invoice) + Administration Fee* Lincoln Dealer Invoice + (0.6% * Dealer Invoice) + Administration Fee* *The Administration Fee is $275. Then, the Dealer can also add a "Documentation Fee" of up to $100. And here is the X-Plan Partner website, which contains an Overview, X-Plan rules, FAQ's etc: https://www.fordpartner.com/partnerweb/jsp/howitworks/fordpartner_rules.htm#faq26 And as akirby stated, Dealership acceptance of X-Plan sales is strictly voluntary, so be sure to ask your chosen Dealership if they will accept an X-Plan sale for your order. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi bobbyd. Currently, the only Ford approved method of cleaning the valves is to remove the intake and manually clean them (i.e. walnut blasting etc). And just to avoid confusion for others: Intake cleaning services are generally okay to use on Direct Injection engines (GDI/Gas Direct Injection). GDI engines are not turbocharged, only direct injected. Although there is still the issue of possible catalytic converter damage. However, intake cleaning services can not be used on Gas Turbocharged Direct Injection engines (GTDI). It is the turbocharger/turbochargers which makes the difference. Good luck.

Hi bobbyd. Ford specifically tells owners not to perform injection tract cleaning services (i.e Sea Foam, CRC etc.) on their EcoBoost and Lincoln T engines. Yes, it can damage the turbo impellers, housings, seals, catalytic converters etc. Do not do it. Good luck.

Hi gang. Dealership participation in AXZ-Plan sales has always been voluntary/at their individual discretion. A dealership can choose who, where, when etc. they wish to accept or decline an AXZ-Plan sale with any/all customers, vehicle and/or sale. Good luck.

Okay! Henceforth, you shall be Dave! ? You are very welcome and good luck! ?

Hi 787. Then another option: Pack your glass cleaner and towels with you, and if you see streaks one of those days on your way home, stop in an area where you can park facing the sun and give it a quick touch up. Or adapt that general idea/principle to whatever your particular situation is. Let us know how you make out and good luck. ?

Hi 787. After carefully cleaning the windshield, you can just move your vehicle so that it is parked facing into the sun. Then you can spot treat any individual streaks. But once you get good at it, that often will not even be necessary. Good luck.

Hi 787. You are very welcome! Full disclosure: I am not a professional detailer. ? This is simply what I have learned through many years of experience and paying attention to the advice of professionals. It certainly can be difficult to maneuver our arms/hands into position to get the weird angles and corners of the windshield. With practice, you just sort of find the right gymnastics in order to get what works for your particular vehicle. It can sometimes help to use smaller towels to get down at the base of the windshield or tight spaces, since a large towel may not fit along with your hand. And always try to keep the towels as flat as possible on the windshield. It will clean and dry better and without streaking if it is flat, as opposed to crumpled in a ball. And again, use plenty of glass cleaner on a cool windshield (in the shade). Spray a lot of it on until you learn how much you can dial it back. It is inexpensive, and a little too much is better than too little if you want to get a streak free windshield. And I would advise against using newspaper on the interior of the windows. Only use it on the outside. It won't necessarily make a huge visual difference to many owners, unless there is a lot of difficult to remove contamination, or you really want to get that last bit of sparkle from the glass. In reality, many/most people may never notice the difference. Only fanatics, of which I can be one with my own car detailing...lol. Nowadays it is even easier to learn how to do things. There is a How-to video for everything. Just Google phrases such as "How to clean auto windshields glass". For example: https://www.google.com/search?q=How+to+clean+auto+windshields+glass&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi26ojTr434AhXdt4QIHSDlAAgQ_AUoA3oECAEQBQ&biw=1920&bih=994&dpr=1 Keep in mind I'm not vouching for any of the above videos, only providing examples...lol. What I can vouch for is my window cleaning regimen. ? Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Ftg. It is old school! But it is a great tip! That actually works great on the exterior glass. I also have used it for many years. The newspaper works as mild abrasive to clean off a lot of contamination. For those who want to try it...Always only use the black and white/print sections though, not the color sections, comics etc. However, from all that I have read, it is not a good idea to use it on the interior of the glass, for the same reasons it is so good on the outside. Since it is mildly abrasive, it can scratch the dash or other trim if we accidentally rub those areas. And never use newspaper on the tinted side of tinted windows, since it will scratch the tint. Since the inside of a windshield/windows is not exposed to the environmental fallout/contamination/bird droppings etc. which the exterior experiences, a good glass cleaner and some proper cleaning steps is usually all that is needed. Great hint though! Good luck! ?

Hi 787. My procedure for a streak free windshield/windows, is first...No paper towels, shop towels etc. Use either clean 100% cotton or microfiber towels. And at least two. One for applying/spreading the window cleaner to clean the windshield, the other to dry and detail the windshield. Quick description: In the shade, on a cool windshield (never in the sun), liberally spray the window cleaner on half the windshield (only do half at a time). Don't be stingy with the window cleaner. Use plenty, since the cleaner solution is what loosens/cleans the dirt and film and fog of out-gassed chemicals etc off the windshield. Use one cotton or microfiber towel to spread the cleaner and loosen the contamination, and clean half the windshield, getting every inch of the windshield and into all the corners, around the mirror and electronic housings etc. Then use the second, clean towel to dry the windshield and detail/buff/polish. Repeat on the other half/side of the windshield. And use plenty of elbow grease during both steps. it is not a matter simply spreading the glass cleaner around on the glass. We need to actually wipe and clean all of the glass with the glass cleaner. Oh, and if you like, spread a third towel over the dashboard to keep the window cleaner off the dash, instrument panel, steering wheel etc. I do. Move it from one side to the other when you switch sides to clean. I use "Armor All", "Meguiar's", "Stoners" and "Rain X" window/windshield cleaners. They are all good, so I buy what is on sale when I need to restock. Although I don't use Armor All on my vinyl/rubber, I find their window cleaner works very well. EDIT- "doyall" above made a good point which I forgot to mention...Use towels which are washed without using any fabric softener. Fabric softener will cause streaks on glass and paint. I wash all my car cotton and microfiber towels, both interior and exterior, without any fabric softener, since it will leave streaks on the windows and on the paint. Hope some of this help and good luck.

Hi Shesha. It is not yet a lost opportunity. Ask the Sales Manager at your Dealership if they will accept an X-Plan PIN for your sale now. While it is up to individual Dealer discretion, they can if they wish to. They can simply rewrite the purchase paperwork, even at this point. All the way up until the point where you sign the papers and drive out with the vehicle. I would recommend you visit the Dealership and speak face to face, as opposed to phone calls, texts, emails. It is somewhat harder to say no to a face in front of you, than a phone call, text etc. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Ralph. No, you are not being too "picky", especially if it is close to touching the fender. Yes, the hood can be adjusted, either by the Dealer Service Department, their body shop, or the body shop they use for repairs. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi RagingCANE and welcome to the Blue Oval Forums. I am not really a big fan of the blacked out look anymore, but that actually looks pretty good on your Navigator. Keep us updated and good luck.

Hi gang. EDIT- I stand (or sit) corrected. The 2022 Nautilus Owners Manual does not have the same pictogram that my 2018 MKZ does. ? The one it does have does not seem to match the battery location of the Nautilus? Instead, the instructions are: "1. Pull the red rubber boot backward. Connect the positive (+) jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the discharged battery. 2. Connect the other end of the positive (+) jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the booster vehicle battery. 3. Connect the negative (-) jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster vehicle battery. 4. Make the final connection of the negative (-) jumper cable to an exposed metal part of the disabled vehicle's engine, as shown in the following illustration, away from the battery and fuel injection system, or connect the negative (-) jumper cable to a ground connection point if available. Note: Do not use the hood latch as a negative (-) connection point. This could cause springs in the latch to burn and prevent the hood from operating correctly." The problem is the illustration they refer to in those instructions does not seem to look correct according to akirby's photo. as I mentioned above. Perhaps one of you Nautilus owners can verify this? Good luck.

Hi Ralph. Yes, there are designated connection points for jump starting your Nautilus. Those points are explained and shown in your Owners Manual. Find the correct pages in your copy by looking in the Index under "Jump Starting The Vehicle". I could tell you where mine are, but I have an MKZ and they may differ somewhat. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Pantera. The best course of action would be to stop by your Dealership and explain your entire situation to them. That would include the fact that you may be out of town when the vehicle arrives, what can we do about this, etc. etc. By speaking with/informing them of this possible issue, you can arrange something with them. All the advice in the world from anonymous Internet strangers (including me) means nothing when it comes down to what a Dealership may do with an order in a case like this. And of course, getting whatever guarantees you can in writing is always helpful. So bottom line is you need to keep your Salesperson and the Sales Manager informed of your situation. Let them know about this ahead of time. Then stop by or call the day before or the day you are leaving to remind them and so on. That being said, here are some other suggestions: First, is there someone dependable (significant other, family member, friend etc.) whose phone number you can give the Salesperson? In this way, the Salesperson can contact them when the vehicle arrives, and they may be able to update the Salesperson on your approximate arrival home? - Next...you already placed a $500 deposit. If they are going to sell the vehicle out from under you, they will do that no matter how much larger of a deposit you put down. - As a rule, no other customers should be allowed to test drive a factory ordered vehicle, sit in it etc. That is the rule, but we are stuck trusting it will not happen when the vehicle is sitting around for a few weeks waiting for the customer to come pick it up. So no sense in worrying too much about it. - It is not usually possible to purchase a vehicle before it arrives, since the paperwork is not yet available. But it certainly can't hurt to ask your Dealership. - Another extreme possibility? Give Power of Attorney for a representative of yours to sign all the paperwork and complete the purchase in your name if it comes in while you are gone. But again, this is something you would need to clear with your Dealership beforehand. The reality is...Signed contracts or not, as long as they are willing to take the chance of angering Ford (who usually has bigger fish to fry) and possible court action by an angry customer (which most people will not bother going through), any car Dealership can sell any vehicle out from under anyone, if they so desire. no mater how much paperwork we have. However, like most of life/society, we all have to operate on a certain amount of trust that the other side has some honor and decency. As you can see, all of your questions can really only be answered by speaking to the Dealership. And I would recommend you speak with the Sales Manager in order to have the best chance of getting the right answers, in order to put your mind at ease...at least as best as possible. And of course, getting whatever you can in writing is always very helpful. One other thing. In the future, be sure to get a completed/signed Purchase Order contract. Not just random paperwork like unsigned (other than by you) paperwork like Order Sheets, etc. At least then you have a legal contract. I am sure others will also jump in to advise and help. I believe everything will work out okay, and you will have nothing to worry about, so keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Ralph. Yes, you must use the steering wheel controls to navigate to Trip 2. If you are lucky, Lefty205's instructions for his MKX are the same as yours. The instructions for how to navigate from Trip 1 to Trip 2 in my 2018 MKZ are the same as what Lefty205 told you for his 2016 MKX, but they may differ on your 2022 Nautilus. If they are different, how to get there would depend on several factors, so you can either sit in the vehicle and experiment with the Driver Information Center settings, or check your Owners Manual instructions. On a related note: Since you and your wife are probably unaware of a lot of nice features available in the various settings of your Nautilus, sitting in the vehicle and experimenting and/or taking a look at the Owners Manual may be a very good idea anyway. Then you and your wife will know how to navigate through the many useful Driver Information Center settings. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi akirby. Yes...the OP stated the Sales Manager told him that. Still, currently available or not, the OP did ask the comparative comfort question, so the information may be useful if he/she or others may want to wait until they are available. ? So the information and my opinion/advice on the 10 way versus 24 way seat adjustment/comfort is now out there for all eternity (or until SkyNet becomes self-aware), in case the OP or anyone else is interested...or not. ? Good luck. ?

Hi skypilot. Just to add to akirby's information: The problem with the 10 way seats may have been just a lack of time to adjust them properly for yourself. However, although the standard 10 way seats are very good, I would definitely recommend the 24 way seating. Either way nowadays, the problem with so many available adjustments is...With such a wide range of adjustments, it takes some time playing and experimenting with all the adjustments in order for each driver to make the seats comfortable. In the old days, it was just slide the seat forward and backward. Then reclining seat-backs. Then we had seat height adjustments. Now it takes a degree in engineering and chiropractics to fully adjust the seats. ? With so many choices/adjustments, it becomes harder to get the right fit. And far easier to get a very bad fit. But once you get the right fit, it will be much better than seats with less adjustments. It simply takes some experimentation and patience. So many adjustable cushions, inflatable bladders, extensions, etc. etc. means more time necessary in order to tailor the fit to each individual body type, size, taste etc. I would recommend starting from scratch. Widen all bolsters, soften/deflate all bladders etc. In other words, make the seat as welcoming to the biggest person possible. Then...incrementally/slowly change all the adjustments, bolsters, cushions etc. one by one until you get the best for for yourself. But personally, I would still go with the 24 way seats. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

H Flying. Just to add to your information...For those how would like more information on US refineries, see here: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Fuel+refineries+in+the+US And here: https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/oil-and-petroleum-products/refining-crude-oil-refinery-rankings.php Good luck.

Hi GrussGott. Well, the whole point is that there are multiple points. Octane, quality, price for many owners etc. ? As far as 85 octane? Hopefully anyone who owns a Lincoln/Ford vehicle, and who hopefully also owns enough common sense to check important yet easily verifiable information about their expensive purchase, will not use 85 octane fuel. 87 octane fuel is the minimum allowable. And as you and others of us have stated...If we use fuel with a lower rating than 87 octane, Lincoln/Ford is within their warranty contract rights to deny any warranty claims which can be connected to that error. Yes, I know...common sense is not so common nowadays. But hopefully we have helped someone here. Good luck. ?

Hi GrussGott. Well, in all good spirits, now we will need to clarify again. ? First, you slipped in two quite large qualifying exceptions there when you stated "In general there's one spigot", and "...but you're likely getting the same gas...". So let's make it clear that "In general" and "...but you're likely..." are quite ambiguous and not guarantees. So in other words, as was already stated, the only way to ensure we get those beneficial additives (excluding fraud, mistakes, etc....lol), is to purchase name brand, Top Tier fuels.. Anything else is an "In general..." or a "...but you're likely" gamble. ? And concerning your comments about "when BP screwed up", one exception does not make the rule. And we should not infer someone said something they did not, in order to exaggerate a point (Strawman argument). ? No one, including me, stated it is a matter of "adding additives to this truckload and withholding it from that truckload". The reality is refineries produce very large batches of fuel for different customers, according to supply/demand and orders. And those batches can/will vary in formulations, even if portions of the same batch may go to multiple customers. And please don't partial quote me out of context. Because as can be seen with your "In general there's one spigot" and "...but you're likely getting the same gas..." , any quick Internet reply can be dissected to death. ? In order to save endless debate and discussion: Top Tier fuels are tested for quality, octane, to be sure they are formulated with the promised additives etc. etc., in order to provide the benefits noted. Non Top Tier fuels are not. Quite the contrary, we can be sure, in general (?) that convenience store gasoline will likely (?) not contain the same additives/detergents which most (?) Top Tier, major brand fuels contain. And if we purchase them, we take our chances as to whether they have those beneficial additives and will provide the best performance and protection for our engines. So as you stated in your NET-NET summary, and I agree..."Top Tier is real, the additives are effective..." and "...there's probably some marginal benefit picking a major affiliate.". And a benefit is a benefit. That we can agree on. Now, concerning the OP's original question about 87 versus 93 octane (and those grades in between): All the pertinent information is in this thread, and the OP and everyone else can make an informed decision as to whether they need/want to pay for premium fuel and full power output, or can do with a slight power drop/a few less ponies, in order to save some money every tankful. It is a personal decision with no single answer which is right for everyone. And they can also know that fuel quality is at least as important, if not more so, than the debate between minimum 87 or 93 octane. Good luck my Lincoln friend.

Hi Allen. Exactly. They last no longer than spray on waxes, spray on polymer waxes etc. There are also car wash shampoo and ceramic coating combo formulations available. You mix it in the bucket and wash your car with it. But again, it is a gimmick and lasts no longer than the spray on wax treatment that a car wash would charge $5-$10 extra for and does essentially nothing. In the 70's and 80's, it was "Teflon" paint treatments/coatings. In the 90's and early 2000's, it was "polymer" coating technologies. Now it is "ceramic" paint treatments/coatings. Second verse, same as the first. Or..."A fool and his money are soon parted..." ? Some owners are now paying $1,000-$1,500 and more for ceramic paint treatments that they think will protect their paint finish for the life of the vehicle. Then they read the fine print and/or find out later that it needs to be retreated every 3 years or so. And yes, the better quality treatments will give some additional minor scratch/chip protections, it is not the invisible shield that many owners believe it to be, if they listen to the advertising and marketing spiels. In the end, most of it is just another way to liberate a bit more money from our pockets. But then again, I am admittedly old school. So everyone should do what they think is best for their own situation. Good luck.