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Hi 4D2. :D In addition to what akirby correctly mentioned concerning the "FDAF" fee. I notice you mention a $725 "Transportation and Delivery Fee". Transportation and Delivery Fees are also already included in the X-Plan Price. There should be no such fees added to your X-Plan price. The only charges added to the X-Plan price in the purchase transaction should be the following: a $75 maximum "Documentation Fee". State and Local Taxes. Title and Registration Fees. Any charges for Dealer added equipment (i.e. pinstriping, Extended Service Plan, etc.), agreed to by you. If the Dealer added those "Transportation and Delivery Fees" to your X-Plan price, they are about as dishonest as they come. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jim. If the problem is not determined to be a simple loose connection or "user error" :D , the Dealer will simply replace the entire unit. Don't be surprised if they can get one by the end of the day or the next day. Other than that, there is not much that can be done. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi vnmous1. :D Simply put, if that "X-Plan" price the Dealer gave you is only the "X-Plan" price without any taxes, Title or Registration, then the Dealer is lying to you about the price. There is no way that an X-Plan price alone should be $900 over Invoice. In fact, using Ford's X-Plan price calculations, a Lincoln would need to have an Invoice price of approximately $137,000 to have the surcharge over Invoice come close to $900. On X-Plan sales, the Dealer is required by Ford to show you the original copy of the Factory Invoice. On that Invoice is a box labeled "X-Plan". The price in that box is the X-Plan price. Then in addition to that, you would receive any publicly offered Incentives which you would normally qualify for. They would be deducted from the X-Plan price. Did the Dealer show you the Invoice with the "X-Plan" box clearly visible? No hand written figures? No doctored copies of the Invoice? If they did not show you the original copy, they are not following Ford's rules, and you should find another Dealer to do business with. Good luck with your negotiations. :beerchug:

Hi FordBuyer. :D you do not need to tell me. You are preaching to the choir. I think it is a beautiful car, and it will be my next purchase. I just plan on waiting until the EcoBoost is added. The only purpose of my post, which you quoted, was to point out that the two cars are different size classes. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D As suv_guy_19 correctly stated, the MKS and the Genesis are two different size categories. Size wise, and in interior space (volume in sq. ft.), the Genesis essentially fits almost right in between the MKZ (a mid size sedan) and the MKS (a bona fide full size sedan). In most (yes, not all) measurements, it is actually slightly closer to the MKZ. While they will be cross shopped by many of the same customers, they are in two different size categories. Of course, that can work for you or against you, according to what size car the customer is actually more interested in. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Scott. :D If cost is a consideration, here is one option: Call several Salvage Yards in your area and ask if they have any late model Mustangs in their Inventory with unused temporary spares. If they do (which they probably will), purchase a temp from them. Just an idea. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi mach14604. :D At some point in time, either the previous owner (did you purchase new or used) or the company that installed the alarm changed the power line that goes to the radio from a switched type (turns on and off with the ignition), to an un-switched one (always on). The fact that pulling the fuse does not kill the radio shows that the line has been changed and is now an un-switched power source. You need to trace the power line and change it back to the correct "switched" power line. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi twolostminds. :D Just to add to the good information already given above, all of the following companies make very good leather care products: Meguiar's, Mother's, Lexol and Tanners Preserve. You can't go wrong with any of them. They are available at the following websites, and at most Auto or Major Stores (Walmart, K-Mart etc.). You can usually find them for less at the stores: LINK: Meguiar's LINK: Mother's LINK: Lexol LINK:Tanner's Preserve Of course there are other good brands, but at least you have a place to start here. Also, keep in mind that with leather, you not only need to clean it, but also need to treat it once in a while with a conditioner. Think of it in the same way as using a hand cream to keep your hands from drying and cracking. Just pick cleaner and conditioner products from any of the above brands, follow the directions and you will do just fine. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ViperPilot. :D I doubt it too, and no offense intended (the icons were meant in good fun). I just figured if someone did not let you know the E-mail address was there in your quote, you may not notice and it might stay there forever. A fair assumption, especially considering your work load? Keep up the good work. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi partsisparts. :D I completely understand that you are only trying to help, and I hope you (and others) understand that I am not trying to be argumentative. I mean absolutely no disrespect to anyone. We are all just trying to help. That is why I also dug up the Factory Invoice for my MKZ, a Taurus X and several other vehicles, and posted the MSRP, Invoice, A-Plan etc. In that way I could provide real numbers that verify what I am stating. The problem is, these shortcut formulas do not work for most vehicles. And if I or someone else provides bad pricing information, we do a big disservice to whoever we are trying to help. We send out a customer with inaccurate information, who will either be discouraged when they find out the truth, or incorrectly assume a Dealer is trying to rip them off. As I show in my previous post, some of these shortcut formulas will be off as much as $1,500 or more on an average vehicle price. I am only trying give everyone AXZD-Plan accurate pricing information. Unfortunately, we keep trying to come up with short cut formulas to figure the A-Plan price of vehicles. Now while a particular short cut formula may work for the vehicle that one person purchased in the past, it will not work for the majority of other vehicles that are being asked about. Again, I certainly understand that the 4.5% deduction may have worked some years ago, but I am providing easily checkable and verifiable proof that it no longer does. Neither does the "$1,000 off for every $7,000 MSRP", etc. etc.. This is just one of those times when we have to figure pricing the old fashioned way, by looking it up. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi ktpworker. :D Unfortunately, that is not the case. Perhaps that figure works for a vehicle you purchased, but every vehicle can/will be different. Again, I use the figures from my MKZ (all in my earlier post, so anyone can double check them). The MSRP was $31,775. Divide that by 7,000 and you get 4.539 (and change). So that would be $4,539 off the MSRP. Using your calculation, that would give us an A-Plan price of $27,236. Again, as I mentioned in my earlier post, the actual A-Plan price on my MKZ was $28,821. That is a difference of -$1,585. That is not even close to the correct amount. Additionally, I tried that calculation on several other vehicles, and it never comes closer than approximately $800-$900. It may/probably come closer on some vehicles I did not check, but obviously it is not a reliable formula. I know you and others are trying to be helpful with these calculations, but they only serve to accidentally misinform those who are asking for A-Plan pricing. The only way to find out the true A-Plan pricing is to either have the Dealer show you the Factory Invoice (as they are required to), check A-Plan pricing on Inventory vehicles on the Ford Employee AXZD-Plan website, or use the calculation formula from the Ford Employee website (Dealer Invoice – Holdback – Advertising Assessment + $75 Administration Fee + AZ Plan Surcharge). But of course, most/none of us have access to the Holdback, Advertising Fee, and AZ-Plan Surcharge amounts, so our choices for accurate A-Plan pricing are to see Factory Invoice or check online A-Plan pricing. Again, I realize everyone is trying to help with these rough calculation formulas, but they are not accurate. Sometimes there is no shortcut. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDIT - Corrected for a math error I made. Corrected amounts are in red. Hi akirby. :D That calculation comes close, but is still off very slightly. AZ-Plan price of my MKZ was $28,821. 4% of that figure is $1152.84. Add those two figures and we get a total of $29,973.84. X-Plan price was $29,941.13. So there is a difference of +$32.71. But it is relatively close. And then if we divide X-Plan ($29,941.13) by 1.04, we get $28,789.548, which is a difference of +$31.46, and different than the $32.71 amount above. Maybe that $1.25 difference can be explained by Ford rounding amounts up or down somewhere that we do not know of? For anyone else who would like to try the calculations on their own (or double check my sometimes shaky math skills ), here are the pricing amounts on my MKZ (again, straight off the original copy of the Factory Invoice, which also match the figures on the VOC): MSRP - $31,775 Invoice - $29,688 (including LMDA, Destination and Delivery, Fuel etc.) X-Plan - $29,941.13 A/Z-Plan - $28,821 My head hurts now from all of this thinking. I believe I need a nap. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi partsisparts. :D No, unfortunately that is not the case. I have included all fees and charges (including FDAF/LMDA, U.S. Gal Gas, Destination and Delivery etc.). I am working right off the Factory Invoice. I am looking at the Dealer Invoice right now, sitting in front of me. Dealer Invoice price of my MKZ was $29,688 (that is the total, including all of the above charges, including LMDA, the Lincoln-Mercury equivalent of the FDAF). 4.5% of that figure is $1,355.96. Subtract that amount and you have a subtotal of $28,352.04. The A/Z-Plan price for my MKZ was $28,821 (again, right off the Dealer Invoice sitting in front of me). That leaves a price difference of $468.96. So using the 4.5% discount figure will give an A-Plan price that is $497 too low (rounded off). I can perform the same calculations with my sisters Taurus X Invoice and the discrepancy will be over $500 ($510 rounded off, as I explained last night). I am extremely familiar with the pricing structure. The A-Plan discount is not a straight 4.5% off of Factory Invoice. The amount varies from model to model and even within model ranges, according to how a vehicle is equipped/optioned. EDIT - To help settle this discussion, I have copied and pasted the explanation of AXZD-Plan pricing, directly from the Ford AXZD-Plan website. It reads as follows (and is there for anyone to double check, if they have access to the Employee site): AZ-Plan Dealer Invoice – Holdback – Advertising Assessment + $75 Administration Fee + AZ Plan Surcharge. The above underlined and bold statement is the A-Plan calculation. Notice it does not state "Dealer Invoice price - 4.5%". It is a more involved calculation formula, and includes several figures which us mere mortals do not have normal access to (i.e the Dealer Holdback amount and what the A/Z Plan surcharge amount may be). Those figures will vary from vehicle to vehicle. This is why I have explained to "oldfashioned" (the original poster) that the A-Plan price can not be broken down into a straight percentage off of the Dealer Invoice. To try and do so will give an inaccurate price. Please understand that I am not trying to be argumentative. I just hate to quote inaccurate pricing figures to people who are asking, because they will then figure we do not know what we are talking about, or thinking they have the right price quote from us, may incorrectly argue with a Dealerships pricing figure, thinking they are being ripped off. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ViperPilot. :D Good advice to have Carl edit out his E-mail address. However, you might want to edit out his E-mail address from your quote of his post in your reply. :slap: Carl took your advice, but you have his E-mail address posted for all of posterity in your reply to him. Good luck VP. :beerchug:

Hi partsisparts, and anyone else interested. :D Again, there is no definitive % off figure that you can deduct from a vehicles Invoice price that will give an accurate A-Plan price. It will vary from model to model, and again even from vehicle to vehicle in the same model line according to how the vehicle is equipped/optioned. For example, if you used the "4.5% off dealer invoice total" figure stated above, you would come up with an A-Plan price that is $468 too low on my MKZ, and $510 too low on my sisters Taurus X. To me, that is not close enough to be considered an accurate figure. The only way to find the true A/Z-Plan price is to have the Dealer show you the Factory Invoice with the A-Plan price box listing the A-Plan price (as required by Ford), or sign up for the Ford Employee AXZD-Plan website and check A-Plan pricing on Dealer Inventory vehicles. A Ford Employee will have no problem finding out the true A-Plan pricing of a vehicle, either online or at the Dealership. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi oldfashoined. :D An individual will not get a new, non-demo car for less than A-Plan, on their own. A-Plan pricing is what the Dealer actually paid Ford for the car. So that would mean they are selling a new, non demo vehicle for less than their cost. Concerning a percentage: Again, A-Plan pricing can not be calculated in that way. I am not trying to keep a secret, it just does not work in that manner. Some members here will work in approximate numbers (and that is their right to do so if they like), I do not. Since you are a Ford Employee, all you need to do is register for the Ford Employee AXZD-Plan website. Then you can price out any vehicle, in any Dealers Inventory and get exact A-Plan pricing. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi oldfashioned. :D The A-Plan price is not a set percentage, and it is not based off of the MSRP, it is based off the Factory Invoice Price. No way to answer how much of a discount it will be, as it will vary from model to model, and even vehicle to vehicle within the same model range, according to how they are equipped/optioned. No sure what you mean by "you can get better discounts by now saying you are a ford employee." That is not how A-Plan sales work. You can not just "say you ar a Ford Employee". You must be an Employee or a family member. Again, the only exception is when Ford offers "Family Plan Pricing" for a particular model range. Then any buyer can get that pricing. But just saying you are a Ford Employee is not an option. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D Just to make a slight correction to what theoldwizard stated: X-Plan is approximately equal to the Dealer Invoice. In fact, according to the cost of the vehicle, X-Plan pricing is normally $50-$150 (give or take) below Dealer Invoice. A-Plan is well below Dealer Invoice and X-Plan pricing. And again, it is non-negotiable. Also, as theoldwizard stated: A-Plan is only for qualifying Ford Employees and certain immediate family members (or in the case of certain Ford sponsored promotions, when they offer "Family Plan Pricing" on certain vehicles). But other then those types of promotions, no exceptions. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi oldfashioned. :D The A-Plan is a set price. There is no negotiating. It is not an Incentive or Rebate that is deducted from the MSRP. Essentially, for the sake of easy description, it is the price that the Dealer pays Ford for the vehicle (the Dealer gets a certain amount of reimbursement from Ford for the sale, but that is another story and also not up for negotiation. An A-Plan price is well below both the MSRP and the "Factory Invoice" price. Once you have determined a vehicles A-Plan price (by having the Dealer show you the Factory Invoice with the A-Plan price box clearly readable), you are then entitled to all Incentives and Rebates normally available to the general public. These Incentives are deducted from th A-Plan price. Hope this is not too confusing. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D Just an idea that I have seen others recommend, concerning the stick on keypad. Install it to the inside of your Fuel Filler Door. This idea is especially helpful when the door is on the drivers side. This way, the keypad is out of sight (for security purposes) and protected (from the elements). Of course, this is a no go if you have a locking Fuel Filler Door (with a release inside the passenger compartment). Anyway, just a thought. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDIT - Akirby typed faster than I did! :stats: Hi Doug. :D The problem here is one of terminology. Family Plan Pricing is not an Incentive. It is a Pricing Plan, just like the X-Plan. Essentially, Ford has several types of "Price Plans". Among them are (starting at the biggest discount): 1- A/Z Plan Pricing (Ford Employee or Family Plan). This is for qualifying Ford Employees (A), Ford Retirees (Z) and certain immediate family members. It is the lowest Pricing Plan available. Then any available Incentives and Rebates can also be deducted. 2 - D-Plan (Dealership Employee). This Plan is for qualifying Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealership employees. It is about $100 more than A/Z-Plan pricing on a vehicle. Then any available Incentives and Rebates can also be deducted. 3 - X-Plan (Friends and Neighbors Plan). This price Plan gives an individual an Initial purchase price of slightly below Factory Invoice price on a vehicle. Then any available Incentives and Rebates can also be deducted. These (AXZD-Plan) are not Cash Incentives or Cash Rebates (like $1,000 Bonus Customer Cash, or $2,000 Retail Bonus Cash) that can be combined with each other. So you can use one Plan or the other: Either A or Z or D or X, according to which you may qualify for, but not multiple Plans. It does not/can not work that way. And the Family (or A/Z-Plan, is as good as it gets). And then as stated above, if there are any other true Cash Incentives, Cash Rebates or Special Low APR Finance offers, they can be combined with the Family Plan Pricing (if you qualify). So you were given the correct information. Just be sure that the Dealer gives you the correct "Family Plan" price. The way you verify the price is by having the Dealer show you the "Factory Invoice". On the Invoice will be a box labeled "A-Plan". That is the A/Z (or Family Plan) price. If the Dealer will not show you the Invoice, and only shows you some other hand written figures, or a "doctored" Invoice copy, tell them you will walk away unless you are shown the proper documentation. Hope this is not too confusing. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi weriley. :D Yes you can, but you would need to rewire the system. However, two warnings: One - it would not be a wise thing to do (explained below). Two - in most if not all states, it is illegal (also explained below). There is a reason for this. They are not "driving lights", they are "fog lights". There is a big difference between the two. The quick story is that fog lights are typically positioned low on a vehicles front end and aimed low, to keep the light low so it does not reflect off of the fog and back into the drivers eyes. If they were positioned and aimed higher, the light reflecting off the fog and back at the drivers eyes would actually dangerously decrease vision distance in foggy conditions. Also, they have a different reflector construction and bulb type (again, to keep the light low to the road). Driving lights are meant to throw light further down the road, similar to a high beam. They are usually positiones higher on a vehicles front end, and they are aimed higher. The reflector (and bulb) is different constructed to throw light down the road. You do not want high beams or driving lights on in foggy conditions, as the higher aimed and higher intensity light will reflect off the fog, decreasing vision. Therefore, wiring your fog lights to be on when your high beams are on would be self defeating, since you then could not use them in foggy driving conditions without your high beams being on, therefore decreasing your vision in the fog (and that is dangerous). Also, in most states it is illegal to drive with more than 4 lights on the front of the vehicle (not including parking lights). This would be any combination of low beam, high beam, fog light, driving light, etc.). If the Sport Trac keeps the low beams on when the high beams are also turned on, it would be illegal to have the fog lights on at the same time, as that would be six lights. Having stated all of the above, I am not telling you not to do it. It is your vehicle and you can do what you want. I am just advising you of the wise thing to do (safety wise), along with the pitfalls and legalities. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 98GMLS. :D No common problems. To date they are very reliable cars. I would highly recommend the Taurus to family or friends. They are good looking cars and reliable. Also more refined than the 500, due to the new 3.5 liter engine and other improvements. As far as deciding between FWD or AWD, this would be my advice: Unless you live in an area which receives heavy snowfall/very harsh winters and have a job which forces you to travel in that type of weather (Doctor, Emergency/Police, etc.) stick with the FWD. There is obviously an up front cost penalty for the AWD, and an ensuing cost of ownership penalty that follows (decreased fuel mileage, mechanical complexity). Just my opinion. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi pudealee. :D You can have the Dealer retrieve your Keyless Entry code. If you purchased the Taurus X from a Ford Dealer, I would ask them to retrieve it, and they should do it without charge. If you purchased privately, or not from a Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Dealer, a Ford Dealer will probably charge you to retrieve the code. Also, some owners have stated they have found the code on a sticker on or near the PCM (usually down in the passenger footwell, by the glove compartment/kick panel). Also, others have said they have found the code on a sticker in the passenger compartment fuse box (usually below and to the left of the steering column. I have never needed to check my vehicle for the code, so I can not vouch for the accuracy of that information. But it is worth it for you to take a look. Yes, you can have a key cut. But you need to be sure that the key has the chip embedded to deactivate the engine immobilizer. It will need to be programmed along with your other keys/keyfobs. Again, you can get it from your Dealer or take your chances with Ebay/the Internet. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi czc587. :D I am assuming you mean "how I can get" (not "how I cant get")? You can obtain an Oasis report from any Lincoln-Mercury or Ford Dealer Service Department. Good luck. :beerchug: