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Leasing Drives Metro Detroit New Vehicle Sales


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Nope. They are actually wearing incredibly well! I'd say they'll easily make it another 20,000+ miles.

I have those tires on my MKX, very impressive but I wonder how much it costs to replace them.

 

I've noticed that because the tires stick out past the wheel-wells, they kick up stones against the side of my car which I can hear in the cabin, a little disturbing.

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I have those tires on my MKX, very impressive but I wonder how much it costs to replace them.

 

I've noticed that because the tires stick out past the wheel-wells, they kick up stones against the side of my car which I can hear in the cabin, a little disturbing.

 

Tire Rack currently has the OE Scorpion Zero 265/40R22's for $278/ea. Very reasonable given the size. It was definitely something I looked up before purchasing. There are a couple other brands that are priced similarly. I'll compare the specs more when it comes time to replace them.

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Tire Rack currently has the OE Scorpion Zero 265/40R22's for $278/ea. Very reasonable given the size. It was definitely something I looked up before purchasing. There are a couple other brands that are priced similarly. I'll compare the specs more when it comes time to replace them.

Not bad, I was under the impression they were hard to get.

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Not bad, I was under the impression they were hard to get.

 

I doubt a lot of local tire shops would carry them in stock, but I'm sure most anyone can order them and have them inside a week or two. My local Mr. Tire surprisingly did have a pair of them in stock though when I went to get a slow leak patched in one and they checked in case they had to replace it.

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IMO I think the new norm is going to be people keeping cars longer then they have been...

 

You are absolutely correct!

 

Vehicles in operation - average age:

20120117-tablea.jpg

 

Average ownership period in months:

201202_length_ownership_lm.jpg

Edited by aneekr
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Another interesting tidbit about this...since the Avg price of a new car keeps going up and people are keeping cars longer, its shrinking (cutting back on supply) the used car market and driving the costs up for a used cars....

 

I remember when I started driving 20 years (Crap!) ago, you could get a decent couple year old used car for under 1500 bucks...I think that would buy you the same car today at the same price!

 

I guess that also helps explain why kids today don't (or can't afford) to drive....which leads into other interesting things like keeping higher insurance deductibles till they hit 25 vs 21 since they won't own their first car till after they start working full time...

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In all seriousness, going from 25 to 35 MPG isn't going to make that big of a difference in Cost of ownership on a car.

It does when you drive 26k to 28k miles a year and drive them until the wheels fall off like I do. Using 26k a year, I would have to buy 300 fewer gallons of gas per year at 35mpg than 25mpg. Edited by Pioneer
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It does when you drive 26k to 28k miles a year and drive them until the wheels fall off like I do. Using 26k a year, I would have to buy 300 fewer gallons of gas per year at 35mpg than 25mpg.

 

But if you drive them until the wheels fall off, you are saving way more than the value of 300 gallons of gas a year in car payments.

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But if you drive them until the wheels fall off, you are saving way more than the value of 300 gallons of gas a year in car payments.

 

Not to mention on a cheaper car, there's no reason to buy collision insurance. A friend who bought a new car immediately once he got his license (and a job) probably has by now paid more in increased insurance premiums than I paid for my car. (Or maybe not, but it's close).

Edited by Noah Harbinger
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Not to mention on a cheaper car, there's no reason to buy collision insurance. A friend who bought a new car immediately once he got his license (and a job) probably has by now paid more in increased insurance premiums than I paid for my car. (Or maybe not, but it's close).

 

Ugh. I don't even want to begin to calculate what I've spent on insurance over the years.

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Not to mention on a cheaper car, there's no reason to buy collision insurance.

 

Till you need it....thats the problem with Insurance...its great not to have it till you have some sort of accident or whatever (depending on insurance type) then your just F'ed

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Even if you keep collision, as the car gets older the premium goes down. To a point. For me, the collision and comprehensive together are less than the liability. With older cars, more good used parts are available, and that saves money. I have no problem with a 6 year old door replacing a smashed door on an 8 year old car. But again, I am one of those guys that drive the wheels off. All that matters is is it reliable and safe.

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Till you need it....thats the problem with Insurance...its great not to have it till you have some sort of accident or whatever (depending on insurance type) then your just F'ed

 

You just need to calculate when the cost of the insurance exceeds the value of the vehicle based on the probability of causing an accident and your ability to obtain a replacement.

 

If your car is only worth $1500 and it's costing you $1000/yr for insurance then that's probably not a wise investment.

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Probably a lot more than that as vehicle seems to hit wall and maintenace costs skyrocket. My Taurus on last oil change is finally getting there. I was told that upper ball joints are getting loose and minor oil leak down side of engine block. I suspect a hardened seal because of age and made worse by the cold February. So when this vehicle starts costing me monthly car payment to keep on road, time to get rid of it. But not having car payment since 2005 is very nice and that money saved in market made me lots more. But a time comes whent it's best to get rid of it. Not sure it's this year, but problems are finally starting to crop up and my looking for replacement gets more serious. 2012 candy apple red SEL Fusion with V6 still looks good.

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You just need to calculate when the cost of the insurance exceeds the value of the vehicle based on the probability of causing an accident and your ability to obtain a replacement.

 

If your car is only worth $1500 and it's costing you $1000/yr for insurance then that's probably not a wise investment.

 

And to take it a step further: The point of insurance is to protect you from risk - in this case, the risk associated with collision insurance is that my car would be totaled or heavily damaged in an at-fault accident by me, or a hit-and-run. In that case, the insurance would provide an amount equal in their calculations to the replacement cost for my car. However, when that amount is on the order of $2000, maybe $2500 if you're being generous, that's a pretty minor amount of risk for me and my situation, and in my opinion not enough to need protecting against.

 

But perhaps for someone living paycheck to paycheck to whom $2500 would be an impossible sum to marshal (what was it, 40% of all people said they couldn't put together $2k on a month's notice in an emergency?) and would be at risk of losing their job without a car, because of the critical risk involved, the $250/year (which was the $500 deductable collision premium on my car) might be worth it (assuming they're able to afford it to begin with) so that they would not be devastated financially by an accident.

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And to take it a step further: The point of insurance is to protect you from risk - in this case, the risk associated with collision insurance is that my car would be totaled or heavily damaged in an at-fault accident by me, or a hit-and-run. In that case, the insurance would provide an amount equal in their calculations to the replacement cost for my car. However, when that amount is on the order of $2000, maybe $2500 if you're being generous, that's a pretty minor amount of risk for me and my situation, and in my opinion not enough to need protecting against.

 

But perhaps for someone living paycheck to paycheck to whom $2500 would be an impossible sum to marshal (what was it, 40% of all people said they couldn't put together $2k on a month's notice in an emergency?) and would be at risk of losing their job without a car, because of the critical risk involved, the $250/year (which was the $500 deductable collision premium on my car) might be worth it (assuming they're able to afford it to begin with) so that they would not be devastated financially by an accident.

 

Exactly. I take the same approach with extended warranties. I can afford to pay for just about any repair either in cash or at least with a credit card. However, I can't afford to lose a $25K vehicle so I have full coverage insurance but not an extended warranty.

 

Self-insuring is almost always cheaper in the long run if you can stand the risk.

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