twintornados Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 While we're being so fussy, "is a automotive guy" isn't correct grammar. . BING!!!! Damnit....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
630land Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 I got 67K miles and original brake pads, but will replace at 70k. Will get checked next tire rotation at 68K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzymoomoo Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 How's this for life 186,334.8 miles on the factory rear drum brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 How's this for life 186,334.8 miles on the factory rear drum brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvrsvt Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I know my parents Sable ate rear disc brakes like they where going out of style also. I don't have any issues with my SHO though...I did the brakes at ~60K or so and I could have prob went another 10K miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvrsvt Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 How's this for life 186,334.8 miles on the factory rear drum brakes Never touched the drums on my wife's 2010 Escape with 157K..partly because I didn't want to mess with them sInce I've only really worked with disc brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzymoomoo Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Never touched the drums on my wife's 2010 Escape with 157K..partly because I didn't want to mess with them sInce I've only really worked with disc brakes. Mine have the hub built into the drum which is intimidating me a little bit. It's something I intend to address when the weather warms up in the next month or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
630land Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Well, glad to not have to change brake parts like wiper blades as in the "good old days". Older 90's cars I used to drive, would need brake jobs and sometimes new rotors at 50k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech1 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) Mine have the hub built into the drum which is intimidating me a little bit. It's something I intend to address when the weather warms up in the next month or two. On older focus you can remove the 4 bolts on the back of the backing plate. That will remove the hub assembly and drum together. Makes it easy. Don't have to deal with dust cap and nut. Becareful of abs sensor if equipped. Remove the one 8mm bolt holding the sensor in place, set sensor aside. Edited February 28, 2017 by fordtech1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzymoomoo Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 So in doing it that way do I need a new dust cap and nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech1 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 So in doing it that way do I need a new dust cap and nut? No because you are just removing the hub and drum together. You aren't messing with dust cap and nut. What year is your focus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzymoomoo Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) No because you are just removing the hub and drum together. You aren't messing with dust cap and nut. What year is your focus? 2008. I was planning to replace the entire hub/drum assembly. And the cylinder if I can muster up the courage to attempt to bleed the system. Edited March 1, 2017 by fuzzymoomoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech1 Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 2008. I was planning to replace the entire hub/drum assembly. And the cylinder if I can muster up the courage to attempt to bleed the system. If you are changing drum/bearing anyway. Then yes get a new hub nut and dust cap if you can't get it off undamaged. Changing the wheel cylinder is a piece of cake. Most iffy part is getting the line loose. Bleeding is easy. Don't let it run dry. Then you just have to bleed the rears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzymoomoo Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 That's the thing, I've never dealt with bleeding before and I'm still unsure on how to do it. I'm debating skipping the cylinders and just dealing with the squeaking for however longer I have the car. It's already been going on for 5 years, what's another 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech1 Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 That's the thing, I've never dealt with bleeding before and I'm still unsure on how to do it. I'm debating skipping the cylinders and just dealing with the squeaking for however longer I have the car. It's already been going on for 5 years, what's another 2? Here is what I would do. Pull the drums. Inspect the shoes and drums. If ok. Take some caliper slide grease and apply it to any contact points where the metal of the shoes hit the backing plate and wheel cylinders. Sand the inside of the drums to get rid of glazing. In order not to have to remove the hub nut and dust cap, pull those 4 bolts out the back and pull the drum and hub assembly off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzymoomoo Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 Here is what I would do. Pull the drums. Inspect the shoes and drums. If ok. Take some caliper slide grease and apply it to any contact points where the metal of the shoes hit the backing plate and wheel cylinders. Sand the inside of the drums to get rid of glazing. In order not to have to remove the hub nut and dust cap, pull those 4 bolts out the back and pull the drum and hub assembly off. yeah, nope. needs complete replacement. I already have the parts, the one question I have is do I need to replace the spindle nut or can I reuse it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech1 Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 yeah, nope. needs complete replacement. I already have the parts, the one question I have is do I need to replace the spindle nut or can I reuse it? You should replace it. I've seen it reused. However, that's the only thing holding the wheel on the spindle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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