YT90SC

Commonrail is fragile. A plain and simple truth that cannot be simply engineered out. Water and/or fluids that don't lubricate the pump will kill it. One bad tank of fuel will end ANY commonrail pump's life, no matter what whiz-bang aftermarket "fix" they have for the systems or whose name is stamped on the housing (Bosch, Cummins, Continental, etc). In "the good old days" of distributor pumps and HEUI systems, bad fuel/loss of fuel pressure would damage them too. It is the nature of the beast with any diesel. The old adage, now a myth, of a diesel being more reliable and longer lasting than its gas powered counterparts needs to die. Why should Ford/GM/Ram eat a bill for someone who put gas in their tank? Or DEF? Or water? Or ran it out of fuel or low on fuel pressure so the pump couldn't lube itself? Or didn't drain the separator ever, or never changed filters, or... the list goes on. I bet if you really dug into those internet sob stories, the majority are leaving out details. People who care for their vehicles, like yourself, rarely have troubles.

Ford uses Bosch pumps, just like GM. BUT this is an issue with ALL common rail diesel even the almighty Cummins. Tiny little pump making 25k psi? Even a small bit of contaminant is an issue. This isn't a Bosch 'design flaw' or 'Ford separator problem', it is that common rail is in itself fragile. But the need to make less tailpipe and noise emissions from compression ignition has forced manufacturers to it. Don't buy crappy fuel from shady stations. Don't skip draining the separator. NEVER use emulsifiers. DO use lubricators. Don't treat a fragile diesel like a comparable gas vehicle that *can* take abuse.

You get what you paid minus a fees for mileage and wear.

At one point I thought they were going to put it in old bones... I mean Tundra.

When the gasket fails it almost always erodes the block where it let go because it was not meant to have combustion against those surfaces. The 1.5 automatically gets a short block now, the SSM you posted is old. HOWEVER many times when coolant has entered the chambers for an extended time, it will gall the plug to the head and ruin the head on plug removal. The TSB for 2.0 is engine long block assemblies (6006 base number). First, you won't see anything in the oil. Coolant ends up in the combustion chambers only, not in the oil. If it is bad enough to get there, it will have other signs like missing at startup, empty degas bottles, overhearing and stinky burnt coolant. Second, oil analysis is NOT a warrantable justification for repair, per Ford. Any small leaks, get repaired immediately, as low coolant can exacerbate the failure of the headgasket. Lastly, don't get your panties in a wad if you go through a very small amount of coolant between oil changes. Some loss of volume of orange coolant due to evaporation during normal use is considered normal.

Will the doors work in the cold?

Porosity is NOT the issue. Core shift due to the stress relief cuts between the cylinders are. The cuts make it so the fire ring cannot seal properly if there is even a little shift. The new short blocks have cross drilled reliefs rather than cut. Not sure when production moved to these. As of now, the 1.5 is being repaired with short blocks unless the plugs bind in the holes from the coolant. They don't even want tear down on those now. The 2.0 and 1.6 are long block for intrusion only. FYI: 1.6 has always been 6006 since launch.

If you think this is a bad product launch, you haven't been around Ford long. At least they have learned to not put a specific launch date on them anymore...

Not saying that. Once they get all the QC issues addressed I think it will be ok. Just saying don't own it without an ESP.

A lot of things that will make servicing them more labor intensive and thus costlier to the non-warranty owner. The front drive axle is part of the engine oil pan. Oil pan removal requires engine removal except for 3.0. The front driveshaft has no bolts, just a circlip on the front and a slip yoke built into the transfer case. To remove it, you have to remove the case. If you have to service said drive axle, you have to remove the shaft and thus the case. Dual front lower ball joints that were problematic on the previous generation Fusion. Guibo on the rear driveshaft. Cars do ok with them. Vehicles that will tow or carry loads shouldn't have them. Apparently they didn't learn their lesson on the Transit. Battery placement and access. There seem to be a LOT of unnecessary hose connections. More connections mean more chance for leaks. Electronic brake booster. I owned TEVES Mk IV cars. ***HUGE*** nope for me. Accelerator pedal is bolted to the floor. That means the sensor and all its workings will get wet/dirty. I can't believe that they did this with the problems that all makers have with floor mats and unintended acceleration. Not labor intensive, but On the 4 cyl anyway, the trans cooler hangs down WAY too low, and the lower coolant hose will catch a lot of debris. Because of the cooler placement there is a cheesy conglomeration of a pivot and arm that connects between the shifter cable and the trans. This will be an issue in states with salt/sand in the winter. Hood release and safety catch is activated by pulling the lever twice. I guess I am old fashioned and thought that the safety catch was supposed to be separate from the main mechanism for the latch. At least you can't pull it with the door closed. Admittedly, there are some things I'm nitpicking, but some are really "WTF?" moments.

No Fusions in my queue right now, sorry.

Even if it can lift it, you don't wanna. Go buy a cheap dolly style floor jack and keep it available. You will thank me if you need it.

4 cylinder Edge uses the same transmission as the non-hybrid Escapes. V6 uses the larger, heavier duty version. I agree with Akirby here, unless they screw up the HF35 with some kind of update, it is fairly reliable. What happened to yours?

There are a LOT of QC issues. 2 of the 3 we have received have been undeliverable. AC leak on one. Coolant AND transfer case leak on the other. Waiting on the third to fall, but it is on the lot and no one has driven it. Lots of tech forum chatter about missing parts and leaks. Compounding it, the WSM and parts catalogging are inaccurate and incomplete. Even when they get sorted -and they will- I strongly suggest an ESP due to several design choices that they made.

I don't know, Fuzzy-- I don't think I could fix a sandwich this week...

As sick as it sounds, I may get one when my 08 finally rusts apart.

Noise and aerodynamic drag reduction.

With the under body cover off, it is VERY accessable. But why would you? Most dealers' Quicklanes are going to nearly match the price of DIY, use Motorcraft parts and you don't have to dispose of used oil, filters and such.

It can be, but the on/off cycle keeps a diesel from achieving its highest efficiency. A small diesel parallel where electric is used as a supplement or a small diesel series where the engine charges the pack would be the only real applications.

100% correct. Rusted, clapped out "little" Broncos still command dumb money. Heck I've seen some people pretty proud of B-II's lately! Fullsize ones are the way to go. The last (92 to 96) are, by far, the most reliable. All the major bugs in EFI and trans were sorted out and had the best brakes. Avoid the 351, ESOF transfer case and auto hubs, and you got it made. The perfect one would be a 300 with 3 pedals and 2 sticks, if you can come up with it. Won't win races but won't break.

Sensor blocked messages can set for other issues with the sensor. (alignment, damage, etc) See your dealer because it will need to be properly diagnosed. I'm with Akirby. Use it. It works well. And it may even keep your shiny new bumper out of the ass of another vehicle.

There is nothing official yet. There was *supposed to* be an announcement Friday. There was none. If you can, contact your dealer and see if they would be willing to contact CRC for you and see what can be done. As of today, there just isn't any information.

Canned tunes make for better throttle response, and maybe a small gain in power and torque. But often they require premium fuel to do so. Same things that make more power in other engines make power in any modular engine, i.e. cams, headers, exhaust, intakes and as Wizard said, rear gears. Rear gears will give the best "seat of the pants" improvement with no other supporting modifications. Everything I mentioned need supporting changes to really get the most of them. BE sure that if you buy a tuner, make sure it can support the changes you may make in the future. Like gear ratio, etc.

Getrag is no better. Hence some of the issues with DPS6. Thanks. I'm not sure about that last sentence. IF a cigarette is a small cigar, well an asset is... LOL They have made and are making changes that seem to help. The updated TCM is marked "Continental" and not "Ford" or "Getrag". The latest clutch and software seem to be less prone to issue. While I don't like doing more for less, at the end of the say it is maddening to know I cannot promise a lasting repair. Moreso to see so many people spend their hard earned money on a product that is so imperfect.

Ford DOES NOT have keycodes older than 10 years. Locksmith is gonna be cheapest, but beware, they often use cheap or "cloned" keys that can cause issues down the road.