bbf2530

Hi gang. EDIT- I stand (or sit) corrected. The 2022 Nautilus Owners Manual does not have the same pictogram that my 2018 MKZ does. ? The one it does have does not seem to match the battery location of the Nautilus? Instead, the instructions are: "1. Pull the red rubber boot backward. Connect the positive (+) jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the discharged battery. 2. Connect the other end of the positive (+) jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the booster vehicle battery. 3. Connect the negative (-) jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster vehicle battery. 4. Make the final connection of the negative (-) jumper cable to an exposed metal part of the disabled vehicle's engine, as shown in the following illustration, away from the battery and fuel injection system, or connect the negative (-) jumper cable to a ground connection point if available. Note: Do not use the hood latch as a negative (-) connection point. This could cause springs in the latch to burn and prevent the hood from operating correctly." The problem is the illustration they refer to in those instructions does not seem to look correct according to akirby's photo. as I mentioned above. Perhaps one of you Nautilus owners can verify this? Good luck.

Hi Ralph. Yes, there are designated connection points for jump starting your Nautilus. Those points are explained and shown in your Owners Manual. Find the correct pages in your copy by looking in the Index under "Jump Starting The Vehicle". I could tell you where mine are, but I have an MKZ and they may differ somewhat. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi Pantera. The best course of action would be to stop by your Dealership and explain your entire situation to them. That would include the fact that you may be out of town when the vehicle arrives, what can we do about this, etc. etc. By speaking with/informing them of this possible issue, you can arrange something with them. All the advice in the world from anonymous Internet strangers (including me) means nothing when it comes down to what a Dealership may do with an order in a case like this. And of course, getting whatever guarantees you can in writing is always helpful. So bottom line is you need to keep your Salesperson and the Sales Manager informed of your situation. Let them know about this ahead of time. Then stop by or call the day before or the day you are leaving to remind them and so on. That being said, here are some other suggestions: First, is there someone dependable (significant other, family member, friend etc.) whose phone number you can give the Salesperson? In this way, the Salesperson can contact them when the vehicle arrives, and they may be able to update the Salesperson on your approximate arrival home? - Next...you already placed a $500 deposit. If they are going to sell the vehicle out from under you, they will do that no matter how much larger of a deposit you put down. - As a rule, no other customers should be allowed to test drive a factory ordered vehicle, sit in it etc. That is the rule, but we are stuck trusting it will not happen when the vehicle is sitting around for a few weeks waiting for the customer to come pick it up. So no sense in worrying too much about it. - It is not usually possible to purchase a vehicle before it arrives, since the paperwork is not yet available. But it certainly can't hurt to ask your Dealership. - Another extreme possibility? Give Power of Attorney for a representative of yours to sign all the paperwork and complete the purchase in your name if it comes in while you are gone. But again, this is something you would need to clear with your Dealership beforehand. The reality is...Signed contracts or not, as long as they are willing to take the chance of angering Ford (who usually has bigger fish to fry) and possible court action by an angry customer (which most people will not bother going through), any car Dealership can sell any vehicle out from under anyone, if they so desire. no mater how much paperwork we have. However, like most of life/society, we all have to operate on a certain amount of trust that the other side has some honor and decency. As you can see, all of your questions can really only be answered by speaking to the Dealership. And I would recommend you speak with the Sales Manager in order to have the best chance of getting the right answers, in order to put your mind at ease...at least as best as possible. And of course, getting whatever you can in writing is always very helpful. One other thing. In the future, be sure to get a completed/signed Purchase Order contract. Not just random paperwork like unsigned (other than by you) paperwork like Order Sheets, etc. At least then you have a legal contract. I am sure others will also jump in to advise and help. I believe everything will work out okay, and you will have nothing to worry about, so keep us updated and good luck.

Hi Ralph. Yes, you must use the steering wheel controls to navigate to Trip 2. If you are lucky, Lefty205's instructions for his MKX are the same as yours. The instructions for how to navigate from Trip 1 to Trip 2 in my 2018 MKZ are the same as what Lefty205 told you for his 2016 MKX, but they may differ on your 2022 Nautilus. If they are different, how to get there would depend on several factors, so you can either sit in the vehicle and experiment with the Driver Information Center settings, or check your Owners Manual instructions. On a related note: Since you and your wife are probably unaware of a lot of nice features available in the various settings of your Nautilus, sitting in the vehicle and experimenting and/or taking a look at the Owners Manual may be a very good idea anyway. Then you and your wife will know how to navigate through the many useful Driver Information Center settings. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

Hi akirby. Yes...the OP stated the Sales Manager told him that. Still, currently available or not, the OP did ask the comparative comfort question, so the information may be useful if he/she or others may want to wait until they are available. ? So the information and my opinion/advice on the 10 way versus 24 way seat adjustment/comfort is now out there for all eternity (or until SkyNet becomes self-aware), in case the OP or anyone else is interested...or not. ? Good luck. ?

Hi skypilot. Just to add to akirby's information: The problem with the 10 way seats may have been just a lack of time to adjust them properly for yourself. However, although the standard 10 way seats are very good, I would definitely recommend the 24 way seating. Either way nowadays, the problem with so many available adjustments is...With such a wide range of adjustments, it takes some time playing and experimenting with all the adjustments in order for each driver to make the seats comfortable. In the old days, it was just slide the seat forward and backward. Then reclining seat-backs. Then we had seat height adjustments. Now it takes a degree in engineering and chiropractics to fully adjust the seats. ? With so many choices/adjustments, it becomes harder to get the right fit. And far easier to get a very bad fit. But once you get the right fit, it will be much better than seats with less adjustments. It simply takes some experimentation and patience. So many adjustable cushions, inflatable bladders, extensions, etc. etc. means more time necessary in order to tailor the fit to each individual body type, size, taste etc. I would recommend starting from scratch. Widen all bolsters, soften/deflate all bladders etc. In other words, make the seat as welcoming to the biggest person possible. Then...incrementally/slowly change all the adjustments, bolsters, cushions etc. one by one until you get the best for for yourself. But personally, I would still go with the 24 way seats. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

H Flying. Just to add to your information...For those how would like more information on US refineries, see here: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Fuel+refineries+in+the+US And here: https://www.eia.gov/energyexplained/oil-and-petroleum-products/refining-crude-oil-refinery-rankings.php Good luck.

Hi GrussGott. Well, the whole point is that there are multiple points. Octane, quality, price for many owners etc. ? As far as 85 octane? Hopefully anyone who owns a Lincoln/Ford vehicle, and who hopefully also owns enough common sense to check important yet easily verifiable information about their expensive purchase, will not use 85 octane fuel. 87 octane fuel is the minimum allowable. And as you and others of us have stated...If we use fuel with a lower rating than 87 octane, Lincoln/Ford is within their warranty contract rights to deny any warranty claims which can be connected to that error. Yes, I know...common sense is not so common nowadays. But hopefully we have helped someone here. Good luck. ?

Hi GrussGott. Well, in all good spirits, now we will need to clarify again. ? First, you slipped in two quite large qualifying exceptions there when you stated "In general there's one spigot", and "...but you're likely getting the same gas...". So let's make it clear that "In general" and "...but you're likely..." are quite ambiguous and not guarantees. So in other words, as was already stated, the only way to ensure we get those beneficial additives (excluding fraud, mistakes, etc....lol), is to purchase name brand, Top Tier fuels.. Anything else is an "In general..." or a "...but you're likely" gamble. ? And concerning your comments about "when BP screwed up", one exception does not make the rule. And we should not infer someone said something they did not, in order to exaggerate a point (Strawman argument). ? No one, including me, stated it is a matter of "adding additives to this truckload and withholding it from that truckload". The reality is refineries produce very large batches of fuel for different customers, according to supply/demand and orders. And those batches can/will vary in formulations, even if portions of the same batch may go to multiple customers. And please don't partial quote me out of context. Because as can be seen with your "In general there's one spigot" and "...but you're likely getting the same gas..." , any quick Internet reply can be dissected to death. ? In order to save endless debate and discussion: Top Tier fuels are tested for quality, octane, to be sure they are formulated with the promised additives etc. etc., in order to provide the benefits noted. Non Top Tier fuels are not. Quite the contrary, we can be sure, in general (?) that convenience store gasoline will likely (?) not contain the same additives/detergents which most (?) Top Tier, major brand fuels contain. And if we purchase them, we take our chances as to whether they have those beneficial additives and will provide the best performance and protection for our engines. So as you stated in your NET-NET summary, and I agree..."Top Tier is real, the additives are effective..." and "...there's probably some marginal benefit picking a major affiliate.". And a benefit is a benefit. That we can agree on. Now, concerning the OP's original question about 87 versus 93 octane (and those grades in between): All the pertinent information is in this thread, and the OP and everyone else can make an informed decision as to whether they need/want to pay for premium fuel and full power output, or can do with a slight power drop/a few less ponies, in order to save some money every tankful. It is a personal decision with no single answer which is right for everyone. And they can also know that fuel quality is at least as important, if not more so, than the debate between minimum 87 or 93 octane. Good luck my Lincoln friend.

Hi Allen. Exactly. They last no longer than spray on waxes, spray on polymer waxes etc. There are also car wash shampoo and ceramic coating combo formulations available. You mix it in the bucket and wash your car with it. But again, it is a gimmick and lasts no longer than the spray on wax treatment that a car wash would charge $5-$10 extra for and does essentially nothing. In the 70's and 80's, it was "Teflon" paint treatments/coatings. In the 90's and early 2000's, it was "polymer" coating technologies. Now it is "ceramic" paint treatments/coatings. Second verse, same as the first. Or..."A fool and his money are soon parted..." ? Some owners are now paying $1,000-$1,500 and more for ceramic paint treatments that they think will protect their paint finish for the life of the vehicle. Then they read the fine print and/or find out later that it needs to be retreated every 3 years or so. And yes, the better quality treatments will give some additional minor scratch/chip protections, it is not the invisible shield that many owners believe it to be, if they listen to the advertising and marketing spiels. In the end, most of it is just another way to liberate a bit more money from our pockets. But then again, I am admittedly old school. So everyone should do what they think is best for their own situation. Good luck.

Hi BL. Well, not necessarily. Brand new vehicles can have rail dust and other contaminants on the paint which are not visible to the naked eye. Or maybe not. All depends. So you need to properly evaluate your paint for any prep work it may need. And as opposed to waxing, which is virtually...but not completely...idiot proof (why it's what I do?), ceramic coatings do take a certain amount of skill and know how to apply properly. Applied incorrectly, it can truly look terrible, with high spots, dullness, paint distortion etc. And once applied incorrectly, it is not easy to remove, as opposed to waxing. I am not trying to discourage you from applying ceramic coating yourself. Especially since I feel professionally applied ceramic coatings are far too expensive to be used on anything but a show car. Plus...I enjoy waxing and detailing my own vehicles, and don't see the need to have the paint finish of my vehicles outlive me, the electrical systems, electronics, engine and transmission of my cars. A bit of exaggerated sarcasm there...? However, if you decide to do it yourself, I would strongly recommend you do some extensive online research on how to properly apply ceramic coatings, the pitfalls and what too watch out for etc. Then you can avoid the mistakes and do it right. You don't want to screw it up, because it is a witch to remove and redo. Let us know how you make out and good luck.

High JG. Ceramic coating costs can vary wildly, according to the individual or shop doing the job, the quality of the products etc. etc., as you can see here: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=cost+to+ceramic+coat+a+vehicle How long do ceramic coatings last? Well, the general consensus is a good quality job will last ~3 years before needing to be redone. And periodic maintenance is also recommended every ~3 months or so. See here: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+long+do+ceramic+automotive+coating+last Ceramic coatings are not the maintenance free paint protection that some owners seem to think they are. Not telling anyone not to do it, only making the information known for those who are not familiar with how long the coatings actually last, as opposed to the marketing and advertising hype and real world costs. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Hi JO302. As the Owners Manual states, and others have mentioned, the vehicle is designed to run using minimum 87 octane regular and up, but you will get the full advertised HP and Torque using 93 octane premium fuel. More important than 87 or 93 octane, is fuel quality. So use name brand, Top Tier fuel brands, and avoid convenience store/no name fuels whenever possible. Yes, some people will tell you that most fuels come from the same few refineries, etc. etc., and that is true. However it is the fuel additive/detergent packages that make the difference. Name brand/Top Tier fuel companies pay the refineries to add particular additives/detergents to their fuels (additives/detergents which are not added to most cheaper, convenience store brands). Those additives/detergents are what make many/most name brand/Top Tier fuels better for your vehicle engine in the long term. According to the particular driving situation and environment at the moment, using 87 octane may/will dial back certain engine parameters, in order to avoid premature fuel detonation/engine knocking/pinging. That dialing back can result in about out 20-30 less hp (according to vehicle), compared to premium. That is a simplified explanation, of course. 89 and 91 octane fuel power outputs/losses will fall somewhere in between 87 and 93 octanes. For those who care, the fuel economy differences between 87 octane regular and 93 premium are negligible at best. And any small mpg gains obtained by using premium fuel do not make up for the higher cost of premium fuels. In other words, you may get a slight mpg advantage using premium fuel in some cases, but you will pay more per mile for that gain, because of the relatively substantial higher cost of the premium fuel. So if you are not worried about getting full power, if you do not tow with your Navigator, if you do not run it hard a lot or race your Navigator etc. etc., then 87 octane is perfectly fine, according to Lincoln (the people who designed, engineered and built our vehicles). As is 89 or 91 octane. On the other hand, If you need/want full power from your Navigator, then use 93 octane premium. But it is not necessary or required. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Hi Ralph. Yes, there is no way (from the factory) to permanently disable it. The default is enabled, and it must be disabled on each key cycle. There are some aftermarket OBDII modules available to disable it on a permanent basis. I'm not promoting their use or vouching for any, just making the information known. ? The starter and electrical system are beefed up for the feature, so not much to worry about there. Good luck.

Hi gang. Costco in Central New Jersey. Currently $3.69 for regular. Fuel prices here have been slowly dropping since hitting a high of ~$4.25 in the earlier days of the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Good luck.

Hi BL. Then if it was Black Label Dealer, they were mistaken. A Black Label Owner can receive eligible Black Label perks at any Black Label Dealership. Fly safely and good luck.

HI BL. Since it is not clear (to me) whether this was a Black Label or non-Black Label Dealership you went to for the car wash, I will add this to your experiences and observations: Free anytime car washes are only a covered perk at Black Label certified Dealerships. Part of the certification process to become a Black Label Dealer is to have a readily available car wash line or staff for Black Label customers. Non-Black Label Dealerships do not normally have the staff or facilities to provide any time/on-demand car washes. So we purchase a Black Label vehicle from a Black Label certified Dealership, and we can then get free anytime car washes at any Black Label Dealership. However, non-Black Label Dealerships are not required to offer free anytime car washes. They are only required to provide car washes when we have service performed on the vehicle. So if you went to a non-Black Label Dealership for a car wash, Lincoln Concierge certainly went out of their way to help you, since technically, you were not entitled to a car wash there. Unless you had service performed. I know, a lot of if's and but's about what type of Lincoln Dealership it was....? Good luck.

Hi Allen. Again, I am not condoning the Dealer behavior. However, we are all adults and if we do not want to be taken advantage of, we need to be adults and not act like Bambi out in the woods on our own for the first time. If we buy online, we need to then get a signed, purchase contract listing all pricing, options, fees, taxes, other additions etc. Can't see how anyone should argue with that. That is how we protect ourselves. To do otherwise is foolhardy, unless we are on a personal friendship trust level with the Dealership/salesperson.. As vehicle buyers, it is up to us to protect ourselves, our rights and our wallets. So the way I look at it, we can either help others here learn how to do it right (Get a signed contract), or tell them it is the Dealers fault every time they set themselves up to fail and get ripped off. We can "put it back on the dealer" as much as we want, but that is not going to protect anyone. Being older with experience (as you are too), I try to help others learn how to purchase a vehicle in a manner that minimizes the chances of them being disappointed/ripped off, as opposed to telling them it is the other guys fault when they take the easy way out by leaving it open for a Dealer to be dishonest. And again, this goes for buying anything. From a car, to a house, to a chair or baseball glove...lol Ironically, you and I have had discussions in the long ago past, where we disagreed because you were more interested in protecting the feelings of the poor Dealership/salesperson, and I was more interested in getting the prospective customer, (sometimes being me too) the best deal possible. ? In my opinion...Yes, we all need to hold the Dealerships to a higher standard. So we can't leave it up to them...or put it back on them (other than denying them our business). We need to be big boys and girls and not be gullible buyers. Again, I am not excusing or condoning dishonest Dealer practices (or any dishonesty). Simply trying to help other forum members avoid being taken advantage of as much as possible. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. ? Typed all the above about 2 hours ago and got sidetracked before hitting "Submit Reply". Good luck Allen. ?

Hi gang. Not condoning dishonest Dealerships (or dishonest anything, for that matter). However, I would add..Customers need to have a little bit of common sense and insist on a purchase contract. All pricing, taxes, fees, etc...and a final purchase price... should be clearly listed. It is foolish for a buyer not to insist on a contract for any purchase, let alone one as expensive as a new vehicle. Anyone who naively agrees to buy anything without a contract is only setting themselves up to be taken advantage of. And if a Dealer refuses to give a fully detailed and signed contract, or stalls/delays, then they should not be trusted. Just another perspective on the subject. Good luck. ?

Hi Allen. Yes, you are correct. The AXZD-Plan rules I linked to were dated "Effective October 13, 2018". However, a newer version of the rules can be found here (dated "Effective March 2, 2022): https://www.jdemmerford.com/ford-x-plan-official-rules.htm Pronoun trouble. ? And here is a direct link to the AXZD-Plan/Partner X-Plan rules from Ford, as opposed to being a Dealer link to the rules: https://www.fordpartner.com/partnerweb/jsp/howitworks/fordpartner_rules.htm#faq26 Good luck.

Hi gang. Just as an FYI, and to avoid confusion: As per Ford's AXZD-Plan rules, Documentation Fees on AXZD-Plan purchases are capped by Ford/Lincoln at $75. AXZD-Plan eligibility also applies to all vehicles, unless specifically excluded by Ford. These exclusions will usually always apply to Special Edition/Limited Edition models such as Ford GT's, Shelbys etc. And sometimes when a brand new model is first introduced. Currently, all vehicles (non-Special Edition), including Escape/Edge/Explorer etc. are eligible for Plan sales. But keep in mind that Dealer participation is voluntary, so an individual Dealer can refuse to accept AXZD-Plan sales on any vehicle they so choose. But they are not excluded by Ford. So if a Dealer is refusing to accept an AXZD-Plan PIN for an Escape/Edge/Explorer etc., it is their choice, not because of Ford. You can find an explanation of all the rules and regulations here: https://www.myplan.ford.com/myplanweb/jsp/howitworks/myplan_az_rules.htm#CanIbechargedadocumentfeedocf Good luck.

Hi bigzaj. In the current world? The reality is...there is no accurate way to answer that question in a way that would help you, with all the pandemic related shortages and shipping delays. It all depends on where it is being shipped to, how it is being shipped (rail, truck/car carrier etc.), weather delays, what other delays may be on that particular route (driver shortages, strikes etc.) and so on and so on. Even if your next door neighbor ordered the exact same vehicle as you, from the same Dealer as you, and got theirs shipped in 10 days last month, it has no bearing on what may happen with yours this month. Or next month. That is how fluid and unpredictable the situation is right now. Hope you get yours as soon as possible and good luck.

Hi Hosftra. Well, not really. These are not limited production vehicles, like a Shelby Mustang etc. The way things are going with commodity shortages and production, there is no guarantee it will be produced "...in the next couple of weeks" anyway, no matter what he was told. And as you mentioned, your friend really has no control over who the Dealer sells the vehicle to once he decides not to purchase it. He has no "right" to sell his place in line, so to speak, because he has no legal "right" to the vehicle itself.. In fact (and in reality), your friend really has no "right" to purchase it in the first place, because the Dealer could decide not to sell the vehicle to him at all, let alone someone he sells his imaginary "rights" to. All the Dealer would need to do is return any deposit he left (if applicable) and it's all over. Also, keep in mind that even if your friend sells his "rights" to the vehicle, he can not guarantee the agreed to price. At least not without the new buyer negotiating this with the Dealership. But you never know until you try. So tell your friend to ask the Dealership. And tell your friend good luck.

Hi tobe. Yes. The "Standard Equipment Included At No Extra Charge" for a trim level is listed on the window sticker in that top box. Then optional additions are listed below. So in the case of this particular Navigator Black Label, the standard equipment grille is a "Grille-Chrome Mesh". However, in the case of this particular order, it has the optional "Monochromatic Grille". So it will have a "Monochromatic Grille" (assuming no odd window sticker error...lol). Good luck.

Hi patsmac. Your question is a bit confusing (to me at least), so I will try to answer it this way: If adaptive steering was not included as either standard or optional equipment on the vehicle that was spec'd in your original order? Then yes, you would need to pay for it if you are adding it now. Good luck.