New Fusion: First Oil Change?

[inkblot]

So, the Fusion Ti I have on order will be my first brand spanking new car, ever. I've been trying to do some research on how to best 'break-in' a new car's engine. The general consensus is to try and give it a decent mix of city/highway driving in the first 1,000 miles or so, but not to overstress the engine (no burnouts, hard acceleration, etc.).

 

The one thing I can't find good consensus on is the first oil change. Some, of course, say nothing at all - go with the normally scheduled first oil change. Others change their oil after just 1,000 miles in case of any particulates in the engine from manufacture. I seen some suggest an oil change after the first 100, and one guy did it after just 50!

 

A 1,000 mi change doesn't sound unreasonable, but am I being too cautious here? Why do you folks think?

[chuckokie36]

I would go with the Manufacturer's reccomended oil change schedule, or shorten it just a little.

I have owned over 15 new cars and never had a problem.

[boogs]

I was told 5k, so Im bringing it in at 5k. Engine manufacturing tech ( as well as oil tech) has come a long way since the days of extended break-in periods and "change your oil every 3000 miles"

[expresspotato]

I will be changing mine after about 100 KM (60 Miles) and will be breaking in the engine relatively hard. With hard presses on the throttle and breaks to properly seal the piston rings in the engine to their walls.

[Serraph]

So, the Fusion Ti I have on order will be my first brand spanking new car, ever. I've been trying to do some research on how to best 'break-in' a new car's engine. The general consensus is to try and give it a decent mix of city/highway driving in the first 1,000 miles or so, but not to overstress the engine (no burnouts, hard acceleration, etc.).

 

The one thing I can't find good consensus on is the first oil change. Some, of course, say nothing at all - go with the normally scheduled first oil change. Others change their oil after just 1,000 miles in case of any particulates in the engine from manufacture. I seen some suggest an oil change after the first 100, and one guy did it after just 50!

 

A 1,000 mi change doesn't sound unreasonable, but am I being too cautious here? Why do you folks think?

There are a few out there, some say vary the RPMs/speed and don't stick to one speed. Another popular one is the Drive Like You Stole It. Might have to look up that one but there are some professional testimonies.

[bluspikez]

I will be changing mine after about 100 KM (60 Miles) and will be breaking in the engine relatively hard. With hard presses on the throttle and breaks to properly seal the piston rings in the engine to their walls.

 

How exactly would "hard presses on the ... breaks" help to seal piston rings?

 

As for the oil change question, I'm going to drive it until the oil change light pops up. Every time I've checked my oil so far it's looking normal (2k miles in), I see no reason to waste oil/filter on an unnecessary change.

[expresspotato]

You can read about break in here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and here: http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

 

 

On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Edited February 3, 2013 by expresspotato

[Tiblue2013]

By the time you get the car the rings have already seated into there bores.

[akirby]

That procedure (including an early oil change) is not applicable to OEM automotive engines.

[bluspikez]

You can read about break in here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and here: http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

 

 

On the Street:

Warm the engine up completely:

Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

 

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want

anyone to get hit from behind !!

 

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more

and run it through the gears !

 

I understand the idea behind this break in process - not saying I agree it needs to be done for our cars at the point when we receive them, but I agree that a brand new engine does need to have it's rings set by a process like the one you mentioned. Either way, it's not really going to hurt anything to do it to a car you buy, so by all means go ahead and try it.

 

My point was that braking with the brake pedal alone isn't going to help or hurt in this case. As you're slowing down using the brakes, It's not likely that the auto trans will hold the gear you were accelerating in and there won't be the load on the engine that there would be if you decelerated in the same gear. They might not explicitly state it, but I'm pretty sure that load from engine braking is what those articles were getting at when talking about decelerating.

[expresspotato]

Hmm you're right - especially in the Hybrid... Its probably going to use regenerative breaking and un-clutch the engine from the electric motor.

[akirby]

Hmm you're right - especially in the Hybrid... Its probably going to use regenerative breaking and un-clutch the engine from the electric motor.

 

That only works in manuals where you get engine braking. In an automatic there is no engine braking when you let off the gas because of the torque converter unless you're in manual or sport mode. Not an issue with motorcycles since they're almost always manual gearboxes.

[Charlee]

Ford recommends oil changes every 10K on the Hybrid. I'm going to do the first one on my Hybrid at 5K (1.2K to go), then 8 K after that with synthetic, which is what it comes with.

[BondMan007]

Ford recommends oil changes every 10K on the Hybrid. I'm going to do the first one on my Hybrid at 5K (1.2K to go), then 8 K after that with synthetic, which is what it comes with.

10K? Wow. I'll have to remember that when I get mine.

[bucky919]

I have the 1.6 I did my first oil change at 1,800 miles I went to full synthetic, I'll do my next oil change when I hit 6k next week. Then after that I'll change it when the oil life tells me to change it.

[Iggnutts]

Anyone care to comment on reasons to use synthetic? Is it better for the car? Does it help the cause of getting away from foreign oil dependence?

[bluspikez]

The Fusion manual states that the longest you should go on a change is 1yr/10000mi for the lightest usage cycle. The shortest change interval is listed as 3000mi for severe duty cycles. The oil life monitor will turn on the change oil indicator somewhere between these amounts depending on vehicle usage.

 

The manual also states that 6mo/5000mi is a safe ballpark for most normal usage if you don't trust the oil life monitor or think that it is malfunctioning.

[ghent360]

I have 4k miles and so far the oil life indicator is on track for 10k oil change.

[Morcelu]

Anyone care to comment on reasons to use synthetic? Is it better for the car? Does it help the cause of getting away from foreign oil dependence?

My understanding is that synthetic oil better resists breaking down due to heat. (Compared to conventional). Since turbo engines put out a lot of heat, theoretically synthetic oil would last longer.

I am planning to put synthetic in my car at the first change.

Edited February 10, 2013 by Morcelu

[Escapism]

I have the 1.6 I did my first oil change at 1,800 miles I went to full synthetic, I'll do my next oil change when I hit 6k next week. Then after that I'll change it when the oil life tells me to change it.

I have been told by mechanics that going full synthetic early on is not good if it is not a requirement from the manufacturer. You want to wear in the engine a little before going full synthetic. Its just too slick. I'm doing the blend for the first 20K or so, then going full synthetic. Just my $.02

Edited February 11, 2013 by Escapism

[bucky919]

I have been told by mechanics that going full synthetic early on is not good if it is not a requirement from the manufacturer. You want to wear in the engine a little before going full synthetic. Its just too slick. I'm doing the blend for the first 20K or so, then going full synthetic. Just my $.02

 

Ya you are right its just the matter of opinion, ive built my share of engine's for Mod cars, snowmobiles ect. my theory is as long as it has/has a good quality oil there should be no issues, in the end it comes down to your luck really.

[Darthsnipe]

I have been told by mechanics that going full synthetic early on is not good if it is not a requirement from the manufacturer. You want to wear in the engine a little before going full synthetic. Its just too slick. I'm doing the blend for the first 20K or so, then going full synthetic. Just my $.02

Isn't it that if you did Oil Changes from the dealership, that they use a Synthetic Blend? I read in the manual that the oil that should be used is the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. I would believe that initially, Ford places their own Motorcraft branded Synthetic Blend into the vehicle. I know a synthetic blend is different from full synthetic but I would perhaps think it'd be close to putting full synthetic.

[deadman64]

Isn't it that if you did Oil Changes from the dealership, that they use a Synthetic Blend? I read in the manual that the oil that should be used is the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. I would believe that initially, Ford places their own Motorcraft branded Synthetic Blend into the vehicle. I know a synthetic blend is different from full synthetic but I would perhaps think it'd be close to putting full synthetic.

 

I just had my first oil change (free) at Ford. I was at 3800 miles / 3 months of ownership. I asked what type and it was a partial synthetic or something to that effect. He said he would recommend every 5000 but I would probably be fine for a little after that. Switching to full synthetic would cost a little more but I would be good for 10,000.

 

Does anyone have an opinion or recommendation on what would be better?

[akirby]

I just had my first oil change (free) at Ford. I was at 3800 miles / 3 months of ownership. I asked what type and it was a partial synthetic or something to that effect. He said he would recommend every 5000 but I would probably be fine for a little after that. Switching to full synthetic would cost a little more but I would be good for 10,000.

 

Does anyone have an opinion or recommendation on what would be better?

 

The factory recommended oil is synthetic blend and that's what you should use regardless of where it gets changed. You can go up to 10K on that depending on your driving conditions - the built in monitor will tell you when to change it - somewhere between 5K and 10k. You can change to full synthetic but I wouldn't recommend going over the recommended intervals.

[Fonemann]

Congrats on your new Fusion! The oil quality is not the issue on "break-in", it is minute aluminum particles. I was used to small aluminum engines settling in and leaving sparklies in the oil so when I bought my Fusion in 2005, I decided to drop the oil after a 1000 miles to see if the same thing happened in new auto engines. Well I wasn't very surprised to find very small particles in the drained oil. This to me was cheap insurance ($19 at the time) to preserve the engine I planned on keeping a long time. I have used the Motorcraft Syn blend & FL-820S filter the life of the car at 5000 miles intervals. Now with 107,000 miles and still running like new, I am glad I changed the oil. I am waiting on my F150 now and will do the same thing at a 1000 miles.