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blksn8k2

1970 Q-Code Mach 1

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Finally getting back to my Mach 1 restoration project. Last winter it was the '75 Bronco project and this will be my winter project for this year. This is not going to be a "concours" restoration but rather a mild restomod. By that I mean it will have some period correct performance modifications like an Edelbrock intake manifold and water pump, Hooker Super Comp headers, Comp Cams camshaft and Magnaflow stainless exhaust system which could all be converted back to original if desired.

 

According to the Marti Report, this car is one of 320 '70 Mach 1's equipped with a non-ram air 428 Cobra Jet/4-speed combo. The car was originally ordered in Grabber Blue with Mach 1 trim, black interior, black hood stripes, 4-speed trans, tilt-steering, AM/8-track stereo, full tinted glass and a tachometer. It was originally sold by a dealer in North Carolina. It came with a 3.25:1 axle ratio with an open differential. I have upgraded that to a 3.50:1 with Trac Lock and 31 spline axles.

 

I bought the body shell back in the mid 2000's and started repairing the body and getting it ready for paint which was completed in 2013. Prior to that the body was really rough. The only original sheet metal parts remaining are the roof, rear quarter panels, rear wheel well housings, rocker panels, deck lid, hood and the center portion of the firewall. Everything else, and I mean everything, was replaced with either better used OEM parts or new parts mostly from Dynacorn. That included a complete one-piece floor pan including the driveshaft tunnel, the trunk floor, intermediate pan over the rear axle, tail light panel, torque boxes, toe boards, front and rear frame rails, doors, front fenders, inner fender aprons and shock towers, core support, outer firewall panels and inner and outer cowl panels. The only part of all that that I have not done by myself was the Grabber Blue paint. Why would I go to that extent? Because of the "Q" engine code in the VIN.

 

A lot of folks will tell you that aftermarket parts don't fit very well. While that might be true for some things, what has impressed me the most about this project has been how well it has gone together and how well those major body and chassis parts fit together. For example, I was really dreading the engine and trans install because every part they attach to had been replaced. But guess what? Every mounting bolt fit perfectly which proved that miracles do happen!

 

I have also added power front disc brakes and power steering which the car did not have originally.

 

I replaced the entire interior with a Mach 1 Deluxe interior kit from TMI. The hardest part of that was teaching myself how to install the seat covers on the original frames.

 

After the car was painted and after installing the interior, all new wiring, fuel and brake lines and all new suspension components the car sat for about eight years. About a month ago I installed the engine and transmission and have been progressing from there. Yesterday I installed the radiator. I still need to do a lot of little stuff like vacuum lines, plug wires, etc. After that will be the driveshaft and exhaust system and at that point it should be just about ready to fire up for the first time. And, I still need to install the grille, front bumper, headlights, hood, etc. but it's finally getting closer to being a complete car again.

 

Most of the parts I'm installing now I have had for at least ten years and just keeping track of where all that stuff is has been a major challenge. One of the best investments I have made for this project was buying a complete set of fastener kits from AMK. That has saved a ton of time and effort. Unfortunately, one of the parts I'm looking for now is a tiny little metal clip that holds the plastic gear on the end of the speedometer cable and that was not included in any of the AMK kits. I think...

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Ooh, I'll be following this one closely, this is my dream car right here.

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Any mods to the 428?  Or is it stock?

 

 

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On 1/9/2022 at 6:59 PM, mackinaw said:

Any mods to the 428?  Or is it stock?

 

 

 

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold, Edelbrock aluminum water pump, Comp Cams camshaft and Hooker Super Comp ceramic coated long tube headers. Also planning to use a full length 2 1/2" Magnaflow stainless steel exhaust system which includes an X-pipe. I intend to use the stock Mach 1 oval shaped exhaust tips in lieu of the Magnaflow tips.

 

BTW, I did find a speedo cable gear clip. I had an old FMX auto trans lying in the shop with a stub of the speedo cable still in it.

 

Here's a few more photos. The first is of the driveshaft I bought for the car back in 2009. It came from a company that specializes in Mustang reproduction parts called Dead Nuts On. LOL. It has the correct paint markings and even came painted with a coat of clear to prevent rust. I also bought a rebuilt Autolite alternator from them which also has the correct markings. I had to take a photo of the driveshaft since it's the prettiest part on the car that no one will ever see. LOL

 

The other photos are of the Magnaflow exhaust. I have it laid out on the garage floor right now so I can measure and mark where I need to make a few cuts. The system came designed to mate up with the downpipes that would have been attached to stock cast iron exhaust manifolds. However, because I'm using the Hookers and the collectors are not only farther toward the rear of the car but also closer together, I need to remove about 6" from the end of the pipes where they enter the X-pipe as well as several more inches from the other end of the same pipes where they attach to the header reducer flanges. Basically, what I'll end up with is two 45° bends with a couple of inches of straight pipe on each end.

 

Also, if you look closely at the tailpipes they are not bent the same on both sides. The driver side has a different bend over the rear axle and that is to clear the shock absorber on that side. All 428 4-speed Mustangs came with staggered rear shocks to control wheel hop during acceleration. The passenger side shock is in the normal position in front of the axle while the driver side shock is behind the axle. Believe it or not, I had to buy another complete system from JBA just to get the correct driver side tailpipe. Of course it doesn't attach to the back of the muffler quite the same way as the Magnaflow system which means it will need to be modified (shortened) as well. JBA was the only place I could find that makes that tailpipe in 2 1/2" stainless and they would not sell just the one tailpipe. I asked. The stock system was 2 1/4" non-stainless and you can buy those just about anyplace that sells Mustang parts.

 

Now I'm wishing I had a lift...

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First trial fit of the exhaust. I need to pull it back off and shorten the pipes in front of the mufflers to get a little more clearance at the rear axle. I need to remove about 1" and it should be good. Better to have been too long than too short. Geez, where have I heard that before?

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I think I have the exhaust where I want it now. Taking out that extra inch of length in the middle made all the difference.

 

And as far as the engine, I'm down to plug wires, vacuum lines and fluids.

 

National Weather Service says 8-13 inches of snow by tomorrow afternoon. Looks like about 3 inches so far. I know what I'll be doing tomorrow... 

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It's nice to see such a nice underbody with no rust.  This thing should haul ass when done.  

 

Back in high school, a buddy had a Ford engineer as a neighbor who let him borrow his 1969 Mustang Mach-1 with the 428/C6 for a weekend.  My buddy had no idea on how to drive it, he just put his foot to the floorboard and watched the rear tires smoke.  He returned the Mach-1 to his neighbor with the back tires nearly bald.

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Thanks. But believe me, it didn't look that way when I started.

 

When I was in junior high one of my neighbors had a brand new Black Jade '69 Sportsroof Mustang with the R code 428 CJ and 4-speed. It was a Drag Pack car which meant that it was also a Super Cobra Jet with a 3.91:1 rear axle. I had to walk by his driveway every day after school and see that thing sitting there. He added a set of Cragar five spoke wheels. I thought it was perfect.

 

One evening after school my Mom sent me to the corner general store to pick up some groceries. When I came out of the store carrying two paper bags of groceries I had to cross the main street through town. As I started across I could hear something coming up the street from about a quarter mile away. It was my neighbor in that Mustang. All I could hear was that shaker hood scoop sucking air and the roar of the exhaust. He damn near ran over me before I could get to the other side. I've been a Ford guy ever since. 😲 

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Thought I would throw in a few photos from early on so you can have some idea of the amount of work I went through to get it to this point.

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One of the other tasks I need to finish is installing the power steering hoses. Back then Ford used what it called "Non-Integral Power Steering" on their compact and intermediate models which included the Mustang. What that meant was that there was a slave cylinder attached to the steering linkage that was fed hydraulic fluid (automatic transmission fluid) from the power steering pump. What a plumbing nightmare! There are a total of six separate hoses which consist of a high pressure line and a return line from the pump to the control valve and back and each of those is divided into an upper and lower section of hose. Then there are two more short hoses that connect the control valve to the slave cylinder. Lots of opportunities for leaks.

 

Like most of the other parts for this car, I bought those hoses back in the late 2000's. Turns out the two short hoses, which have a section of metal tubing with bends and flared fittings on each end, were not bent correctly and are basically impossible to install. I now have a pair of "concours correct" hoses on order from NPD. You can still buy the hoses I already have from other vendors and when I checked the current customer reviews they all said the same thing...they don't fit worth a damn. The reviews for the ones I just ordered were mostly all positive. Live and learn...

 

These are the two "shorty" hoses I already have:

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This is an OEM hose:

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And these are the hoses I have on order:

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One other task I had to complete was adjusting the position of the control valve on the steering linkage. There is a required distance of 4 7/8" between the center of the grease fitting on the valve and the connecting rod stud in the linkage. That also has an obvious effect on how well those two hoses fit.

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The the two short PS hoses came today from NPD. Fit like a glove.

 

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