Waxing New Cars

[johnjyi]

All,

 

I have a question regarding the new cars. A while ago, I was told that I should not wax a new car for about six months due to the paint curing time. Is this still true or is it safe now to wax almost right away?

 

Thanks!

[BORG]

I've heard this before, but I'm not sure that's still true. I avoid waxing by regularly visiting the premium car wash which applies a clearcoat sealer. I swear by it, my black cars look better after 3 years with me than they did when I bought them

[BlackHorse]

If it's a brand new car there's really no reason to wax it within the first six months of ownership anyway.

[jpd80]

That's right, Borg.

The only reason you ever use wax is for UV protection.

Unless you're in high UV areas like deserts, Mexico or Australia then the clear coats

of the newer carwashes are probably better at avoiding paint damage caused when applying wax.

[Footballfan]

If it is a new car from the factory, you can take a buffing wheel to it- the paint is for the most part cured. Where you have to be careful is if you get a second-rate repaint (often times like the ones that you get at the dealer). They will reccomened that the car not be waxed for 90 days to allow the paint to cure, as well as not exposing it to the elements. However,an average paint shot costs about $500 million- the finished product from that shop is uncomparable in terms of durability. Think about it; a vehchle assembled may sit around in a dealer's lot for months in all sorts of elements- the paint job better hold up!

[Ovaltine]

That's right, Borg.

The only reason you ever use wax is for UV protection.

Unless you're in high UV areas like deserts, Mexico or Australia then the clear coats

of the newer carwashes are probably better at avoiding paint damage caused when applying wax.

 

JP:

 

I respectfully disagree.

 

While the UV protection is a very big part of the benefits of waxing, I also contend that the ease of maintenance (aka: washing) that an annual or bi-annual coat of wax offers is an equally valid reason.

 

Bug guts and road grime fly off the car under a high-pressure wash wand when you use this stuff once or twice a year:

 

 

I've used variations of this product on my vehicles for years, and swear by it. My everyday vehicles have to sit outside 365 days a year, and I had an 11+ year old Plymouth, and still have a '93 Chevy truck that still had good looking paint. That's probably an example of the UV protection you mention at work. Plus, all of the little pinprick rock chips, etc. are constantly covered when you use this type of product.

 

-Ovaltine

Edited October 29, 2007 by Ovaltine

[johnjyi]

If it is a new car from the factory, you can take a buffing wheel to it- the paint is for the most part cured. Where you have to be careful is if you get a second-rate repaint (often times like the ones that you get at the dealer). They will reccomened that the car not be waxed for 90 days to allow the paint to cure, as well as not exposing it to the elements. However,an average paint shot costs about $500 million- the finished product from that shop is uncomparable in terms of durability. Think about it; a vehchle assembled may sit around in a dealer's lot for months in all sorts of elements- the paint job better hold up!

 

I am actually inquiring about my currently ordered 2008 Focus. I figure the parts would only have been painted about two months when I take delivery in about a month. With winter just around the corner, I thought I may need to get a coat of wax on the finish. Also, that would help prevent build-up when driven during the winter months.

 

So, it sounds like the general concensus here is that it should be okay to wax? I normally use Meguiar's Gold Class but am trying to get the the NXT Generation.

 

Thanks!

[BORG]

The sealer applied at the Autowash also has the same effect of repelling dirt and grime. I'm lazy and I've had some very bad experiences waxing my cars before, especially with the textured plastics. There are better waxes now which don't cause as many problems, but I seem to be doing much better with the car wash application. Generally, if you are worried about your fresh paint, I would take it to a quality car wash which will apply the clear coat sealer (top and underside) to keep the car's paint in tip top shape until you have a chance to wax it after winter. Make sure it's a soft cloth car wash and you'll be all set to go. I happen to have one just down the street from me and I visit them once a week.

[johnjyi]

The sealer applied at the Autowash also has the same effect of repelling dirt and grime. I'm lazy and I've had some very bad experiences waxing my cars before, especially with the textured plastics. There are better waxes now which don't cause as many problems, but I seem to be doing much better with the car wash application. Generally, if you are worried about your fresh paint, I would take it to a quality car wash which will apply the clear coat sealer (top and underside) to keep the car's paint in tip top shape until you have a chance to wax it after winter. Make sure it's a soft cloth car wash and you'll be all set to go. I happen to have one just down the street from me and I visit them once a week.

 

With my daily commuter, I used the car wash at the gas stations that has the multiple cycles. However, what I've noticed with them is the residue left on the car. I finally got around to washing that car recently so I could wax it. Whatever residue was on the car turned the wash sponge and mitt black...yuck. I haven't been to one of the fancy places in a long time so perhaps it's different. I noticed the same residue with the Mr. Clean car wash thing that uses a filter to rinse with ionized water. Notwithstanding, I want to take care of the Focus. So, I may just put on a coat shortly after taking delivery.

[Ralph Greene]

If it's a brand new car there's really no reason to wax it within the first six months of ownership anyway.

 

 

Correct IMHO

[johnjyi]

Correct IMHO

 

Again, I am more concerned with driving the car through the snow and other winter weather without waxing it at least.

[Ralph Greene]

Then wax it sooner than 6 months if you wish. It won't really matter. While the clear coat will break down over many years, it's main job is to protect the paint underneath. Lots of people no longer wax their cars at all.

 

I wax mine about once each year (Florida UV rays), and then use a product like Meguirs "Quick Detail" or Mothers "Showtime" every few months. They go on and off easier thn wax, but require a wax underneath to work well.

 

Some of you folks who live in the snow and salt belt, and also the industrial belt, get more corrosive stuff on your paints than we do here in Florida, but your car mainly rusts from the inside where you can't see it. Paint is just cosmetic, and newer paints with clear coat on top last longer than paints of he past. But even in your area, if I was just going to keep a car 2-3 years, I doubt if i would wax it at all, or not until it started looking dull. which might take 5 years or so.

 

Also, I can take an old car that has never been waxed at all in many many years, and with my buffer, can make it look the same as one that is waxed regularly.

[Michael Reynolds]

All 3 of our cars receive a coat of wax every 6 months regardless. I don't know how many cars I've seen in SoFla with paint that has detoriated and faded to all hell. I don't want to look at a car that I own 5 years from now and be all bent out of shape about something that could have been prevented. Call me paranoid but I like to play it on the safe side, especially with a black car.

[Blueblood]

What everybody should do to their new cars is to clay bar them, and then wax them, even when new there are contaminants in the paint from rail dust and other crap. I used a clay bar on my car a few months ago and it made the paint look better than new, and it's 5 years old..

[Michael Reynolds]

What everybody should do to their new cars is to clay bar them, and then wax them, even when new there are contaminants in the paint from rail dust and other crap. I used a clay bar on my car a few months ago and it made the paint look better than new, and it's 5 years old..

 

Ditto that with the clay bar. I always strip the car with a clay bar b4 waxing.

[johnjyi]

Ditto that with the clay bar. I always strip the car with a clay bar b4 waxing.

 

I've never used clay before so please bear with my questions.

 

On the new car (Focus), I should use it before I wax for the first time? The car won't come with wax so will the clay affect the clearcoat?

 

On my relatively new vehicle (Mariner), I just waxed it. So, if I use clay on it, I will need to wax again, right?

 

On my baby (2003 Mustang), should I use clay? It stays in the garage most of the time and has been waxed at least once each year since I bought it.

 

Is the clay safe to use on plastic bumpers? Won't the particles in the clay scratch the finish? After clay-ing, do I need to re-wash the cars? What happens to the lubricant that's still on the car? Is there a good brand?

 

Thanks!

Edited October 29, 2007 by exrub

[theoldwizard]

What everybody should do to their new cars is to clay bar them, and then wax them, even when new there are contaminants in the paint from rail dust and other crap. I used a clay bar on my car a few months ago and it made the paint look better than new, and it's 5 years old..

How many hours did that take ?

 

I'm lazy. I just run it through the car wash and then hand dry it. I got a 10 year old Econoline that has never been garaged. 10 years of SE MI winters, slush, salt etc. The only thing that is really showing any rust is the rear step bumper.

Edited October 29, 2007 by theoldwizard

[Michael Reynolds]

Personally, this is what I typically do before a wax job:

 

(1) A good car wash

 

(2) Dry

 

(3) Clay bar the vehicle and what I use as a lubricant is Meguiars Quick Detail spray. Basically spray the area then work it with the clay bar. After that towel dry with a fine microfiber cloth. Also I'd recommend doing it in smaller sections.

 

(4) Wax 'em up

 

I've never used clay bars on a plastic surface, and honestly I don't think it would do you any justice to use it there. I simply tape off plastic surfaces or any other surface that isn't painted metal.

 

If you plan on using a clay bar you might as well plan on waxing it, as the clay bar most likely will remove the wax along with contaminents.

 

Without a doubt use it on your new Focus. Their is raildust and residue from the plastic they put on portions of the car before you got. Also I never let the dealership wash or detail a brand new car. The Fusion, A4 and G35 were delievered unwashed.

[Ralph Greene]

Funny this subject came up. Just this morning I waxed my wife's 2 year old Montego. First time. Looks like new now. But it does sit in garage except for her morning trips.

 

RE my above posts, all my cars are garaged about all the time. Even in the daytime, so my waxing needs are not so great.

 

I only clay bar a show car. Not my drivers, but it won't hurt any car. Buffer cleans up the surface pretty good also.

 

I use a 10" orbital buffer. (About $25 from Home Depot) It saves a bunce of time. If paint was old or dull, would use it to put wax or cleaner on, it will bring back the new car look. On car with good paint, I just put liquid wax on big area by hand with circular damp pad, like hood, top, or truck area. Let it almost dry and then buff it off. Without buffer, would not be able to do large areas at a time. After using buffer on whole car, I go back over it with a fiber cloth desinged for this purpose.

 

For a show car, I would do things a tad different, depending on paint color, swirl marks, scratches, etc.

[Hydro]

Wax it. It won't harm anything. I did my wifes 07 Edge and my 08 SD the next day we bought them. I wanted piece of mind that there is a coat of wax to prevent UV and harsh weather damage. Both paints feel smooth as glass and look great. Now I just use the "wax as you dry" everytime I wash it. I only apply the Meguires NXT twice a year (before Winter and Summer).

[jpd80]

JP:

 

I respectfully disagree.

 

While the UV protection is a very big part of the benefits of waxing, I also contend that the ease of maintenance (aka: washing) that an annual or bi-annual coat of wax offers is an equally valid reason.

 

Bug guts and road grime fly off the car under a high-pressure wash wand when you use this stuff once or twice a year:

 

 

I've used variations of this product on my vehicles for years, and swear by it. My everyday vehicles have to sit outside 365 days a year, and I had an 11+ year old Plymouth, and still have a '93 Chevy truck that still had good looking paint. That's probably an example of the UV protection you mention at work. Plus, all of the little pinprick rock chips, etc. are constantly covered when you use this type of product.

 

-Ovaltine

Point taken old son,

I thought you Americans don't get outa your cars to wash 'em, LOL

We wax all the time down here in AUS, the UV is unbelivable!!!

 

Down here a bigger problem is that the UV destroys plastic interiors in about 5-8 years

if unchecked, so we use baby oil. If you use those water based plastic treatments from

car shops, the plastic goes brittle and milky, it doesn't restore the plastic, just shines it.

[NickF1011]

Point taken old son,

I thought you Americans don't get outa your cars to wash 'em, LOL

We wax all the time down here in AUS, the UV is unbelivable!!!

 

Down here a bigger problem is that the UV destroys plastic interiors in about 5-8 years

if unchecked, so we use baby oil. If you use those water based plastic treatments from

car shops, the plastic goes brittle and milky, it doesn't restore the plastic, just shines it.

 

The UV isn't as bad here as the ACID RAIN. It does numbers to paint without wax.

 

Has anyone else noticed that Honda's paint seems to REALLY be awful in the roof/C-pillar area? I always see them with paint burned off down to the primer.

[Michael Reynolds]

The UV isn't as bad here as the ACID RAIN. It does numbers to paint without wax.

 

Has anyone else noticed that Honda's paint seems to REALLY be awful in the roof/C-pillar area? I always see them with paint burned off down to the primer.

 

That's because Honda's last so long....

[kenp77]

JP:

 

I respectfully disagree.

 

While the UV protection is a very big part of the benefits of waxing, I also contend that the ease of maintenance (aka: washing) that an annual or bi-annual coat of wax offers is an equally valid reason.

 

Bug guts and road grime fly off the car under a high-pressure wash wand when you use this stuff once or twice a year:

 

 

I've used variations of this product on my vehicles for years, and swear by it. My everyday vehicles have to sit outside 365 days a year, and I had an 11+ year old Plymouth, and still have a '93 Chevy truck that still had good looking paint. That's probably an example of the UV protection you mention at work. Plus, all of the little pinprick rock chips, etc. are constantly covered when you use this type of product.

 

-OvaltineWhat is that JP stuff u have there is it wax and cleaner or just what don't beleive I have seen it before of course I am on the west coast??

[johnjyi]

While we're on the topic of waxing, another question:

 

How the heck do I get the wax residue off of the textured plastic parts like the mirror housing, window trim, etc.?