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Engine Oil, Need Your Opinion


Escapism

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Got my 2.0 back from the dealer today. It had "the works". Basically it's first oil change and tire rotation. I noticed on the printout it states they used 5W-20. The manual says to use 5W-30 for the 2.0. What the heck is that about? Should I call them on it? I live in Virginia so it's not like it stays really cold here for long. I mean after all we are a southern state for petes sake.

 

Update- called te service dept and they said the techs run this in all the vehicles during the winter months because its easier on the engine. So at this point I guess my question would be to all you northerners. Do you use 5W-20 in the winter months way up north even though the manual states 5W-30?

Edited by Escapism
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Got my 2.0 back from the dealer today. It had "the works". Basically it's first oil change and tire rotation. I noticed on the printout it states they used 5W-20. The manual says to use 5W-30 for the 2.0. What the heck is that about? Should I call them on it? I live in Virginia so it's not like it stays really cold here for long. I mean after all we are a southern state for petes sake.

 

Update- called te service dept and they said the techs run this in all the vehicles during the winter months because its easier on the engine. So at this point I guess my question would be to all you norterners. Do you use 5W-20 in the winter months way up north even though the manual states 5W-30?

If the manual calls for 5W-30, that's what should be used. Your engine must have a higher operating temperature than those designed for 5W-20 oil, so you were fed BS. Check out this article for more details:http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

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The dealer screwed up and does not want to eat the cost of the oil, filter and labor to fix it. I would not have even driven it home.

 

Ford says 5W30. They do not say 5W30 unless your dealer screws up and forgets, uses the wrong oil and then its ok for now....

 

If they refuse, call Ford Customer Service. Show them the manual and tell them you want it done right, they will back down. The local Lincoln dealer did the same thing on our MKT last year. Was actally funny to see the service manager doing an oil change in a business shirt (he took off his tie) as all the techs had left and the rental desk was closed. I refused to drive it home with the wrong oil in it. Even went as far as to review the owners manual but in the end, they fixed it. Next time I went in there was a sign in the service writer area that read: Ecoboost = 5W30, note all OC tickets.

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Update - i emailed the service manager this AM and explained my concern. I said in the email that Ford recommends blah, blah, blah. The last thing I mentioned in the email was I was willing to change the oil myself, but the dealer needs to give me the oil. While driving home from work today I got a call saying my oil was waiting for me on the service advisors desk. When I picked it up, he told me he was 99% sure that they put in the correct oil, but that the system just prints it out that way. Uh, OK, whatever. Anyway, I will change it tomorrow. This will give me an opportunity to inspect the underbody cover and see if they put all the hardware back in, properly. Place your bets now.

 

Such a shame. I swear I would give a left lug nut (I'm done having kids) to not have to worry about the dealership service on my vehicle. But my experience in life has proven otherwise on more than one occasion. :banghead:

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I've changed my oil myself for over 40yrs and mistakes can be made even by the dealerships. I found out on my '09 FEH 2.5L that if you use front wheel ramps, the old oil gets trapped in the head and doesn't drain completely. I added 5qts of Mobile 1 5W-20 and saw a ~10% drop in MPG. This is the first Ford in many I've own that I found this problem with overfilling the oil because it didn't drain on my ramps. No problem with my '05 FEH with the 2.3L engine draining the oil on the same ramps. If I was not a hypermiler, I would not have noticed my MPG had dropped from 53mpg to 48mpg. I drained the oil on level ground and confirmed the overfill because of the ramps. I did another completely new oil change w/filter after draining the mixed oil on level ground.

 

The next thing I read is people having smoke coming from their '10 Fusion Hybrids. When I posted the questions about them having their oil changed recently, they all said their dealers had just changed their oil when it started smoking. Mixing old oil with new oil and overfilling the pan was not good and most people reported the dealers just drain their oil levels to stop the smoking. If oil was getting pass the rings and causing the engine to smoke, those engines and exhaust systems could have damage. I found the problem in my '09 FEH before getting smoke out my tailpipe and my MPG returned to normal after I changed the oil.

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Should be fine due to the fact that its the winter right now. Thats what the 5W is for. Not sure I would want to run that on a 98 degree day. That's what the 20 versus 30 is for. The hot point is a little higher with the 5W30. And then there is the slight diff in oil pressure. I learned my lesson and I will specify what oil I want next time. I changed mine today with the oil the dealer gave me. And my underbody panel and oil filter were put on by the dealer perfectly.

 

5W20 might not be a bad thing up north. I just wish the manual would say one way or the other. i'm just going by the book.

Edited by Escapism
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I had my first oil change done back in July. After reading this thread I got curious so I checked the invoice.

Mine reads:

6 XO*5W30*BSP 5W30 MOTORCRAFT OIL

 

Perfect. Maybe cause it was done in July? Like I said, if the manual said to use 5W20 when it get cold out, I would schedule my oil changes accordingly.

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I don't think it has anything to do with the time of the year it was changed. It clearly states in the owner's manual and I'm sure in the service manual, 5W30 for the 2.0L Ecoboost and 5W20 for the 1.6L and 2.5L. I wonder if the quick lube or service department at some dealerships aren't paying close enough attention to what they're reading, if they're looking it up at all, or don't know there's three different engines in the Escape. I don't know why it would make a difference the time of year, both grades are 5W and have the same winter viscosity, the second number is the running viscosity and 30 grade gives more protection. Ford and others switched to 20 grade to improve mpg numbers.

I guess I'm just one of the lucky ones, I have a dealership that I trust, I'm getting good mpg's, all my panels line up, I don't have any rattles, squeaks or leaks, my keyless entry works, my cargo area carpet is holding up, my name plates aren't pealing, my brakes and pedal don't squeak, my windows work, my MyFord Touch is working as designed and my tires are round. I have nothing to complain about, my Escape has been flawless.

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I like the "and my tires are round" part! Good one. My MPG are up because I conducted a test. My last tank full I promised myself I would drive 55mph on the highway and 30 to 40 where I could. With that tank I got 26.4 MPG. Not bad at all for a combined figure with 70% highway.

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Perfect. Maybe cause it was done in July? Like I said, if the manual said to use 5W20 when it get cold out, I would schedule my oil changes accordingly.

 

The 5W is for start-up temperature and the 30W is more for max operating temperature. Your engine thermostat controls operating temperature so cold weather has little to do with the subject at hand. If it did, the 5W would drop to 0W and the oil would have a 0W-30 for cold weather. I don't see a 0W-30 oil spec in the requirements here.

 

Go out and pop the hood and most likely the oil fill cap has big yellow letters that say 5W-30 on it and say Motorcraft Recommended. You don't even have to look it up in the manual, so it's not like the idiot should have made this kind of mistake when Ford makes this that clear on the oil cap he had to remove. The SA was feeding you BS about the 5W-20 oil for winter that was noted on your paperwork, and he knows it. Ford gives these guys training classes on new vehicles for pete sake.

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Go out and pop the hood and most likely the oil fill cap has big yellow letters that say 5W-30 on it and say Motorcraft Recommended. You don't even have to look it up in the manual, so it's not like the idiot should have made this kind of mistake when Ford makes this that clear on the oil cap he had to remove. The SA was feeding you BS about the 5W-20 oil for winter that was noted on your paperwork, and he knows it. Ford gives these guys training classes on new vehicles for pete sake.

Yep, that was the first thing I checked and you are correct. Big, bright yellow letters say 5w30 on the cap. Chances are that's what they put in, but the SA told me "that's just the way it prints out". So worst case is my Escape got 2 oil and filter changes.

 

I am aware of what the 5w means. So maybe the 2.0 runs a little hotter? I don't know about that but I know what the manual and filler cap say and that's what I'm sticking to until Ford tells me otherwise.

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Yep, that was the first thing I checked and you are correct. Big, bright yellow letters say 5w30 on the cap. Chances are that's what they put in, but the SA told me "that's just the way it prints out". So worst case is my Escape got 2 oil and filter changes.

 

I am aware of what the 5w means. So maybe the 2.0 runs a little hotter? I don't know about that but I know what the manual and filler cap say and that's what I'm sticking to until Ford tells me otherwise.

 

There is a gauge I recommend and have them in all my vehicles: '05 & '09 FEH, '11 Explorer, and '12 SEL Focus for my Son that's in College. It's called a Scangauge and just plugs in to the OBD II connection above the brake pedal and sits in front of you above the steering wheel anywhere you want. This gauge can read just about anything the Ford scan tool does and can also read OBD codes and reset them. The head and coolant temperature are just a fraction of what it can do. I constantly monitor everything to get great MPG and identify any system problems at the start. I don't drive without a Scangauge in front of me since I discovered it in 2005. As you learn what the gauge does, your MPG will increase and you will identify problems as they begin in every vehicle you plug it into. People tell me all the time that their vehicle has a trouble light (OBD) problem and I save them a minimum of $100 the dealer charges to find the problem. They can then save $100's of dollars replacing the part them self's if they can change the part. The gauge retails for $169.00, but some sites offer it for a big discount. I get my gauges through http://www.cleanmpg.com/ and join for free. Here is the information on the Scangauge if you are interested: http://www.scangauge.com/

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