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Engine break-in?


Camride

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I was just poking through the owners manual and noticed that there is not much written on engine break-in besides vary engine speed, avoid high loads (assuming they mean full throttle) and no towing (lol). Breaking in engines is a pretty highly debated topic so I'm curious what you all will be doing with your Fusions.

 

I've never had a new car or new engine, but I am inclined to follow the "drive it like you would normally, if it breaks it's under warranty" mentality. From what I've read any significant bedding of the rings and such is done at the factory and while there is additional break-in once you get the car it isn't as critical. I figure I will drive the car like I normally do which usually includes one short full throttle sprint per day (getting onto the highway near my house) and then mostly normal driving. I don't beat my car to death, but I don't drive like a granny either.

 

What do you plan to do? One of my co-workers got a new STI earlier this year and he wouldn't go over 4k rpm or 50% throttle for the first 1,000 miles. I thought that was overly cautious personally. If the engine is going to break I'd rather it go ahead and do it now rather than later (and possibly after warranty).

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When I was in law enforcement we would take newly delivered cruisers and run at speeds over 100MPH. We broke them in hard and rarely had an problem and these motors had 150K+ miles on them when they were retired.

 

For those who just fell out of their chairs - we did this on airport runways we had access to.

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There is one thing that is consistent with all of the information you read online about engine break in:

- Vary the RPM's continuously and don't take the car on a road trip for the first (1,000 Miles -> 1,600 KM).

 

Some others suggest changing the oil after the first 20-30 Miles due to the fine metal particles you will find in it.

 

Here is where the controversy comes in:

- The owners manual and some online sources say to drive the car easily without hard accelleration

- Some other online sources say drive the engine hard to help seal the piston rings to the cylinder wall

 

For me when I get the car I will be doing as everyone says, varying the RPM then change the oil after 30 Miles (50KM). Once or twice I will just stomp on it to seal those rings!

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Sorry for my ignorance, but was exactly is the issue with going on a long trip with a new car? I mean, what is the difference of going one way to work every day on the highway, vs a longer trip? I would think as long as you vary RPM's on the highway and not use cruise control, it wouldn't make that big of a difference.

 

This will be my first new car and would be using it for long trips from RI to VA. I will most likely be taking a trip down sometime after getting the car. Again, sorry for my ignorance, I've never had to deal with a new car before.

Edited by jinx8402
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Fuel economy will improve after the second tank of gas.

 

Fuel economy will continue to improve for quite a while after the first tank. Gas mileage will get better as the engine breaks in and as the ECU learns and adapts to your environment and driving style.

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My Fusion Hybrid got 44mpg on the first tank of gas, but is getting about 39mpg on the second tank of gas. I'm pretty sure it is due to the fact that it is a lot colder outside now.

Can you post some pictures of your Hybrid? You might need to start a new thread on it and the more pictures the better! :headspin:

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When I was in law enforcement we would take newly delivered cruisers and run at speeds over 100MPH. We broke them in hard and rarely had an problem and these motors had 150K+ miles on them when they were retired.

 

For those who just fell out of their chairs - we did this on airport runways we had access to.

 

Firm believer in "drive it like you stole it". Just don't hammer down until you get to second gear(for the first 1000 miles) it will save your tranny. Seat the rings and teach the ecu to get the most out of the motor. I always change the oil to synthetic at 500, 1500, and 3000 miles. To each his own I guess. Then again, people call me crazy for doing mods to a brand new vehicle.

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Firm believer in "drive it like you stole it". Just don't hammer down until you get to second gear(for the first 1000 miles) it will save your tranny. Seat the rings and teach the ecu to get the most out of the motor. I always change the oil to synthetic at 500, 1500, and 3000 miles. To each his own I guess. Then again, people call me crazy for doing mods to a brand new vehicle.

 

Any plans for the Fusion? I'd love to hear your thoughts.

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At the mercy of aftermarket vendors. I'm thinking this motor can pushed to nearly 300 hp with a programmer and few other parts added/changed.

 

It's do-able to get 300hp out of a K03, but that will really be pushing it to the edge and you'll likely be wringing every last pound of boost out of it. The K03 just isn't big enough to make a lot of power. My Audi started with a K03 (170hp) and now I have a hybrid K04 and aren't even making 300hp (closer to 280). Then again this engine has 2L instead of 1.8L and a whole lot better tech (direct injection, VVT intake and exhaust, etc).

 

I will be interested to see what people get, but I won't be doing anything that will void my warranty unfortunately. Reliability is going to be more important to me on this car.

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After seeing the pictures of the CDC car, I would love to see the details on the powerplant modifications. I also like the look of the black grilles they made. I'm Hoping some suspension stuff will be exploited more on the Mondeo once it comes out and those can be added here. Exhaust is tough as on a 4 cyl, it can sound horrible, but we'll see.

Edited by MineralstangGT
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After seeing the pictures of the CDC car, I would love to see the details on the powerplant modifications. I also like the look of the black grilles they made. I'm Hoping some suspension stuff will be exploited more on the Mondeo once it comes out and those can be added here. Exhaust is tough as on a 4 cyl, it can sound horrible, but we'll see.

 

Totally agree, I ended up going with a Borla exhaust on my Audi because it's relatively quiet (louder than stock but not annoyingly loud) and it doesn't get raspy at high rpms. Unfortunately a lot of 4cyl exhaust sounds like crap.

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Totally agree, I ended up going with a Borla exhaust on my Audi because it's relatively quiet (louder than stock but not annoyingly loud) and it doesn't get raspy at high rpms. Unfortunately a lot of 4cyl exhaust sounds like crap.

 

Borlas always a good choice. Its just so hit and miss, so I'm anxious to see what the two motors sound like with some exhaust work.

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