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Some advice needed... Please


Oil  

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  1. 1. What do ya think

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Motorcraft oil is made by conoco phillips. I cant remember who makes the filters but I think it might be wix?? Anyway, Ford does not make this stuff they only market it. I believe the oil is the same as Kendall Tropartic.

 

Purolator makes the Motorcraft filters, but the Motorcraft filters are unique. Apparently, the Motorcraft filters run down a separate line and have key design differences from Purolator filters based on Ford's specs, and I've also heard Ford even periodically inspects the assembly of the filters.

 

Motorcraft filters are an outstanding value, and an excellent filter.

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Does the technician that finds the work not get to do the work?

 

Not always

 

Brakes are a pretty sweet gig, and many need the fuel/air filters.

 

Yes brakes and fuel filter exchange are considered gravy as are any of the "flushes" but how are you going to charge a customer for installation of the air filter when you've already removed the old one for inspection?

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QUOTE (Marginal Economist @ Jan 2 2009, 11:58 PM) *

Does the technician that finds the work not get to do the work?

 

Not always

 

Brakes are a pretty sweet gig, and many need the fuel/air filters.

 

Yes brakes and fuel filter exchange are considered gravy as are any of the "flushes" but how are you going to charge a customer for installation of the air filter when you've already removed the old one for inspection?

 

It isn't so much the "labor" to change the air filter (they will charge it if they can get away with it), but the full-pop you will pay for that air filter. My girlfriends' Escape had a similar episode. As a side note, she brings her car to a "oil change facility" because that is what she always had done...they wanted to charge her $35 for an air filter claiming it was dirty. It was iffy, but she called me and I told her not to have them do it. We got the filter for $11 at a parts store and put it in ourselves. Normally, I won't touch her car since she wants to have it done "there" but I told her she was crazy if she paid that kind of cash....

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Purolator makes the Motorcraft filters, but the Motorcraft filters are unique. Apparently, the Motorcraft filters run down a separate line and have key design differences from Purolator filters based on Ford's specs, and I've also heard Ford even periodically inspects the assembly of the filters.

 

Motorcraft filters are an outstanding value, and an excellent filter.

 

Thanks for explaining it to chevys for me, I was at work.

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Motorcraft 5W-20 is without a doubt the best oil for the money.

 

And you can go much longer than 3K miles with it.

 

3,000 mile changes for special operating conditions as called for in the owners manual.

I live only 4.5 miles from work (frequent cold starts/short trips) and on as many weekends as I can I tow an 8,000 lb boat.

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Motorcraft Filters only, they are the best on the market.

 

And Full synthetics are the way to go.

 

In the 92 Grand Marquis (4.6) After the 4th oil change I went to full synthetics only I do not rember who's it was at the time It was hellishly expensive as Full synthetics were still fairly new and hard to get. Later on it was Castrol Syntec when it hit the market. With fairly regular 5K oil changes there were few times it was negleted to alomst 10k miles espcially later on in the cars life.

 

Being in Northern Alberta the car regualrly seen sub -0F temps and down as far as -47C (-52F) I almost never plugged it in and it aways had cold winter starts. The car was parked at about 650K miles due to exssesive structural body rust. The engine only started consuming oil in the last 100K miles before being parked and then I only had to add a liter between changes.

 

The Excursion gets Castrol Syntec as well. The 6.8l V10 Is notorius for consuming a bit of Oil and when I got the truck it was using about a liter between changes again every 5K miles. Now after almost a year of Castrol Syntec it does not use a drop.

 

So ya if your looking to keep a vehicle for a long time Synthetics are the way to go.

If your gonna dump it in a couple 3 years use what ever is cheapest and meets the warrenty requirments.

 

The biggest advantage of sythentics is the better ability to neutilize combustion byproducts deposited in the oil.

Not so much a big deal now with the really really low sulpher content in todays gasolines. But it is still a concern espcailly with Cold weather short runs as, they are the hardest on an engine as the engine never gets hot for long enough to cook all moisture out of it or the oil. This is where synthetic oils really shine.

 

 

I have never had much luck with Quaker State in Fords the stuff seems to evaporate. And Again I have had the same thing occur with Valvoline though not any where near to the same degree as the Quaker State. Now the newer Penzoils tend to do the same thing ...vanish.

 

Valvoline is made by Martahon Oil for Ashland (Owners of Valvoline).

 

Quaker State Is made by Royal Dutch Shell as is Penzoil and they make Slick 50. Shell Also owns the Jiffy Lube Chain. Since the aquistion of Quaker State and Penzoil the Domestic Aero Shell lubrication products are no where near as good as they used to be. At one time they were the best on the market by a wide margin.

 

Once Shell Gets Scottford Refiney ugrader expansion finshed (a few more years) Then supposedly all thier Domestic lubricating products will be Synthetic crude based.

 

Castrol is owned by BP All of the of the domestic sold Castrol Syntec is made from synthetic crude from the Syncrude & Suncor facilities. BP is a big player in the oil sands. Eventally all of Castrols Oil will come from the Joint Husky BP refinery upgrader in Toledo Ohio utilizing synthetic Oil Sands crude

 

Exxon-Esso makes Mobil One.

 

In the U.S Motorcraft Oil is made by Conoco Phillips.

In Canada Motorcraft Motor Oil (bulk and some consumer size contaniers) is made by Petro Can.

 

Petro Can Lubricants meet all of Fords requirements. Here they have filled the spot vacated with the poorer quality Shell and the Aero Shell products. All of Petro Cans lubricants are Synthetic Crude based. The only issue with them is avalibilty (pretty much only avaible at petro can service stations and bulk dealers) and if you can not get them from a bulk dealer cost is a big issue.

 

 

 

Matthew

Edited by matthewq4b
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Why is it ok to waste oil just to make someone feel better?

 

3,000 miles is the recomended interval for my driving conditions, read your owner's manual.

 

I guess I could stretch it to 5,000 miles but I get the parts from work and do it myself for a total of $20 about every 4 months, big freaking deal.

But if you don't like going to the dealer you can buy Motorcraft oil and filters at parts stores like Advance or even crappy Walmart.

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Why is it ok to waste oil just to make someone feel better?

Since most motor oils are recycled...it isn't really wasted, just re-entering the recycling phase sooner than needed.....This is a free country....lets start acting like it.

 

If John/Jane Q Public wants to waste his/her money on more frequent oil changes, that is the only thing he/she is wasting, I say, let them go for it. But don't deride my decision to use a 5,000 mile plan.

Edited by twintornados
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3,000 miles is the recomended interval for my driving conditions, read your owner's manual.

 

I guess I could stretch it to 5,000 miles but I get the parts from work and do it myself for a total of $20 about every 4 months, big freaking deal.

But if you don't like going to the dealer you can buy Motorcraft oil and filters at parts stores like Advance or even crappy Walmart.

 

I wasn't referring to your driving conditions - I was referring to the statement that 3K is fine for anyone just because it makes them feel better.

 

And even if it's recycled - that takes more energy than not using it in the first place.

 

I've always changed my own oil, but doing it twice as often as the OM requires is simply wasteful. But then again most people don't give a crap about conservation of resources.

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3,000 mile changes for special operating conditions as called for in the owners manual.

I live only 4.5 miles from work (frequent cold starts/short trips) and on as many weekends as I can I tow an 8,000 lb boat.

 

I'm sure if you look at the 2008 or 2009 F-150 owners manual you see that the 3K service changes are around 5-7500 mile now.

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Read your owners manual.

 

 

Look at what "severe driving" means.

 

Basically, unless your start your car and drive at legal speeds continuously, without stoppping, through clean, cool air on level ground with no towing you won't have to change your oil until 7,500 mi. Severe driving is towing, stop and go, uphill, short trips, dusty roads, heat, cold.

 

Anyone here do "severe driving"?

 

I'm surprised there isn't a "severe driving warning" issued for your area!

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Hey all,

I am looking to get a long long time out of my wife's 08 Taurus X Limited AWD. What do you guys think about going with Mobil 1. I have heard a lot of good things about it. Here are the details. Its got 11,000 miles on it and she does "hard" miles.... 95% stop and go. Only about 7,000 miles per year. So.... what do ya think? Worth it? And if so what would the time and miles be still 6 months or 7500 miles?

Thanks for your advice!!

Steve

 

 

Hey, I have a 1997 F150. I just put Royal Purple in last summer and its been working great. So if your considering synthetic oil you might want to look into it.

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Take this for what it is worth to you. I have been specifying oils for years, and keep up to date on the changes in oil additive packages and base oils. For the average driver I find that following the manufacturers normal service months/mileage intervals using a name brand conventional oil (Motorcraft is a name brand to me) of the recommended service classification and viscosity will keep the engine reasonably clean. I have not seen an oil related engine failure, even with over 250k miles on an engine, when this was done. In any case, I recommend changing oil at least once every 9 months if the vehicle is not driven much unless it is in dry humidity controlled storage,

 

For special or unusual conditions:

Severe stop and go (congested city driving) more than 60%, use conventional oils, change 3 months/3k miles, or use full synthetic and change 5 months/5k miles.

 

Severe cold (low temps below -25 F and daily highs not much above +20 F), use full synthetic, change 6 months/6k miles.

 

Severe high temps (100 F and above for weeks at a time), use full synthetic, change per manufacturers schedule.

 

Severe service use (high engine rpms for extended periods, significant lugging, running engine at greater than 70% of rated output for extended periods), use full synthetic and change per manufacturers severe service schedule.

 

If a vehicle spends a lot of time idling, go by an hourmeter, change oil every 70 to 90 operating hours.

Edited by lfeg
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If your going to quote the owners manual, you should try to be accurate !

 

 

Not a word about hills or hot and cold !

Well, 5 out of 7 isn't bad. The point I was trying to make is that the farthest extent of oil change recommedations is based on an unlikely assumption of vehicle operation.

 

In every motor vehicle thread for motorcycles or cars, "oil threads" always ends up a brawl. :finger:

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Hey, I have a 1997 F150. I just put Royal Purple in last summer and its been working great. So if your considering synthetic oil you might want to look into it.

 

Thanks! Do you guys see how split it is. The votes have been running 50 50 since I posted last week. Funny...

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"For special or unusual conditions:

Severe stop and go (congested city driving) more than 60%, use conventional oils, change 3 months/3k miles, or use full synthetic and change 5 months/5k miles."

 

This is me. So I think this is what I will do. Maybe 6 months. Thanks for all your input. Motorcraft full synthetic a good choice?

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"For special or unusual conditions:

Severe stop and go (congested city driving) more than 60%, use conventional oils, change 3 months/3k miles, or use full synthetic and change 5 months/5k miles."

 

This is me. So I think this is what I will do. Maybe 6 months. Thanks for all your input. Motorcraft full synthetic a good choice?

If you are still under warranty it sure is. Just keep the reciepts in case you need to prove to your dealer what oil you have been using. Or better yet, have your Ford dealer change your oil if you are still in warranty. It is a little more money, but could avoid a hassle. It is $6 more for my Ford dealer to change my F-250 PSD 6.0 oil than to do it myself.

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