Leaderboard

Yes. Thursday today

Ford just slammed thru $17 price point and is up over 8% in last day or so. Nice pop. Analyst on CNBC is giving an $80/share target price. Don't know about that, but $20 price target certainly is in sight short term. I would say keep the dividend yield under 3% and let the stock price fly. Stocks with high dividend yield don't do well in this economy.

Bob - the frustrating part is this has been posted and discussed at least 4 or 5 times (maybe a lot more) over the last few months. In this case a search for COVP would have shown that.

Is it just me or do you feel almost dirty after dealing with these guys? SiriusXm has to have the worst customer service going. Slimy, shady business practices. Almost like dealing with an old time shady car dealer.

That is not always true. Ford chose to fund its future investments by redirecting existing resources and cancelling less profitable projects and vehicles. There is a limit to how much a company can invest without overextending fixed overhead and debt. Ford obviously believes it can do both.

WOW and very nice ? and I think this has removed any question…. I know it takes time for you to do want you do and it is very much appreciated. Thank you ice-capades

2021 Ford Customer Order Verification for Priority Scheduling and Allocation (Revised 06/09/2021) WHAT IS HAPPENING • The Customer Order Verification Program (COVP) will be opening to all unscheduled orders on all vehicle lines (excluding Mach-E, Bronco and specialty units) • Verified orders will receive priority scheduling and will receive incremental allocation • The required documentation for COVP approval will again require a signed and dated buyers order along with a copy of the customer’s driver’s license. A WBDO Screenshot or DORA is no longer adequate documentation for approval. • Any previously approved retails will not have to be resubmitted SUMMARY Dealers will be able to utilize the existing COVP website on https:// to register retail orders for all vehicle lines (excluding Mach-E, Bronco and specialty units). Verified orders will receive priority scheduling and will receive incremental allocation. Vehicles that are not verified will still be scheduled but will be scheduled within the dealer’s regularly earned allocation. Note that while this program utilizes the same process as the Retail Order Incentive, only previously communicated vehicle lines are eligible for the incentive. Please check SmartVINCENT for incentive eligibility. Retail Order Prioritization Violations This program is built on trust and cooperation between Ford and our dealer partners. There will be a zero-tolerance policy for dealers if it is determined that false retail orders were submitted in order to receive incremental allocation. The program will be audited by a third party to ensure consistency and compliance. One violation will result in the dealership being excluded from the Retail Order Prioritization program moving forward. ELIGIBLE VEHICLE LINES All vehicle lines (excluding Mach-E, Bronco and specialty units) are eligible for verification and incremental allocation through the COVP process. • Mustang (Non GT500 or Mach 1) • EcoSport • Escape • Edge • Bronco Sport • Explorer • Expedition • Transit • Transit Connect • Ranger • F150 • Super Duty COVP PROCESS • Customer places eligible retail order through their local dealership • Dealership will enter retail order into COVP website located at https://

I've had this '75 Bronco for several years now. With the way the value of these things has increased recently I thought it was time to drag it out of the mothballs. The biggest changes I've made to it so far have been to the drivetrain. When I got it it still had the old 302/3-speed stick combo. I replaced that with a stroked 351W (393 ci) and a New Venture NV-3550 5-speed manual transmission. I'm now starting to do some bodywork as the old girl has started to show some of the typical rust issues. I had already replaced some of the inner sheet metal like a section of the floor and parts of the front inner fenders a few years ago. Overall though the original body tub is in pretty good shape which is not very common for these old Broncos, especially in the Northeast. The problem now is that I am starting to see the typical rust at the rear quarter panel seams. The 1st gen Broncos used an unusual construction which I assume is similar to the '67 - '72 F-series. The upper section of the quarter panel includes the lower inner body panel (or inner bedside in the case of the trucks) that has the wheel well housing attached to it. The lower section of the outer quarter panel is a separate piece which is spot welded to a flange on the upper section. Bad idea as the resulting exposed horizontal seam is a prime location for rust. Several years ago I found a pair of one piece fiberglass quarter panels made by a CA company (KAL Offroad Racing). So far, after removing the rusted lower quarter panel section and trimming away most of the corner cap where the taillight mounts, I have trial fit the new passenger side fiberglass quarter. It actually fits over top of the original rust-free upper quarter panel section which means I am not losing any structural integrity. Still a lot of work to get it right but at least I have proven that I can make it work. The Bronco already had 'glass front fenders when I got it and I have another set of nearly perfect OEM steel doors. The doors that are on it now have way too much Bondo in them which is starting to crack. I also have a full convertible top with a folding frame which means I can finally get rid of that heavy-assed steel top. The only steel left on the outer body will be the doors, hood and tailgate and I am considering replacing the hood with a fiberglass one as well. The hoods on this gen Bronco extend from the grill all the way back to the base of the windshield and must weigh over 50 lbs. They are also held up by a prop rod. With a 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body lift and sitting on 35" tires getting the heavy steel hood lifted high enough to slide the prop rod in place is quite an exercise. I'm 5'-10 and the tops of the front fenders are chest high. James Duff makes a gas strut conversion kit for the steel hood and that may be an option as well.

Yes, and since that isn't a signed agreement, I am under no obligation to pay any inflated price...hard no and I will just walk away from the deal.

I switched to the ultimate lariat and added the led lights. Kept the trailer assist tho. I love the 360 view. Don’t really plan to use the knob to back the 5er but whatever. I also added upfitter switches cause why the hell not. I can use them to turn on the dc to dc charger on the camper. These forums are a bad influence. Now I have ambient lighting and fancy stuff.

The culprit was a bad sensor o the left half shaft for the front drive. Pleasantly surprised with the diagnosis and repair that so far (knock on wood) has fixed the problem.

Ten minutes after my last post I got the E-mail its scheduled for the week of 11-29 YEA

For all incumbent automakers, that kind of legacy "baggage" presents a huge challenge as they enter the new world of sustainable transportation. In Ford's case, fortunately CEO Jim Farley is a good businessman with a visionary mindset. He should be able to come up with strategies that make future Ford BEV and related mobility services appealing to a broad base of consumers, including those that were disappointed with Ford's poor efforts involving BEV in the past.

Who the hell is Dan?

And using the same tools and other information sources……

Thank you sir.. Much appreciated.

Personally, just me...my opinion.... I think it'll be an improvement. Took years for the Escape to be a great seller and the current version was not very exciting to look at, and sitting inside was nothing orgasmic...had Fiesta plastics throughout. It was underwhelming. Hopefully, they have addressed the issue. The 2 vehicles that received the most slack of chintzy interiors last few years have been the Escape and the Explorer. You always spend a bit more time and attention on your core products. Hopefully this rectifies it.

I'm not sure where some of those guys ended up. The ones I knew stayed with the company and just worked on Medium Duty. As far as Navistar and EPA goes, Navistar deserved even more of a royal screwing than they got. They should have been shut down or, at minimum, told to buy all non-compliant engines and lemons back. Several of my current customers sued Navistar over their engines....and won or got hefty settlements or alternative arrangements made. Navistar knew darn well what they were doing, and that is the reason Cummins walked away from them because they told Navistar their "technology" doesn't work, yet Navistar continued down the Extreme EGR path anyway. If they reversed course and went to SCR they would have been 2 years late to market and would not have any trucks to sell in 2011/2012MY, so they decided to try and cheat the system with their own flawed engines, instead. One of my customers, who has 100 trucks and are complete morons when it comes to accounting, bought 50 lemons from Navistar in 2012/2013 and the settlement was just finished 2 years ago. What was the settlement? Given this company completely mismanages cash and has no financial sense whatsoever, they typically buy trucks from those who can magically arrange financing for them. So the settlement with Navistar was they would drop their lawsuit if Navistar sold them 50 trucks over a 2 year period, at discounted price AND agree to finance every one of them with a 5 year FMV/walkaway lease. Navistar agreed and case closed.....LOL....

Yes.... a re read that post... Thanks for setting me straight, comprehending what I read is not always my strong suit ! ! ! !?

At the risk of sounding like a Monday morning quarterback...... I believe the 'mistake' of the HN80 program was not selling it to Freightliner shortly after introduction. The mistake was not cancelling the program entirely before any real money was spent on it. The Louisville might have been getting a bit dated by the early 90's, but remember it's major competitor, the Mack R, was 5 years older and still selling well. No question KTP was nowhere near it's full profitability potential building heavy trucks and retooling it for Super Duty production was absolutely the right move. What Ford should have done was not bother with HM80 and continue with the old Louisville at KTP until retooling for the Super Duty in 1998. Whatever they got from Freightliner for the HN80 was probably less that what they spent on the program. I remember hearing rumors around the time HN80 was introduced that the program was late and way over budget. If true, I wonder it that had anything to do with Ford selling it off so quickly. Cut your loses and run?

I had the 2014 ram eco diesel with the dial shifter.. I cant tell you how many times i put my RADIO IN REVERSE when a good song came on.. Hated it.. Now paddle shifters on the wheel.... or at least the ability to shift it there.. HELL YA.

Wrong. The same issues would apply to Ford BEVs.

"I"...Re your comment on early 90 rumors, I would have to believe that the decision to spend all that money on HN-80 was made during that time frame-given truck came out in 96?? And Poling was guy at top then?? (When HN-80 was approved?) One of the things that really bothered me (as a stockholder as well as Ford truck diehard) was the truck was on the market two years and they give the business away? Once again I guess Jac the Knife carried that vote given his "most profitable wins out" mind set versus any thought about a broad product slate. As for your comment on "Baby 8-go big or go home", no argument as you worked there-me? I'm a "civilian" but I always thought that a market existed for low cost tandems-either because they were low annual mileage vehicles and/or they were in an application where the chassis was more of a "platform" for like a boom. bucket, Vactor etc. Back to Detroits, one of the best "bang for the buck" Fords I ever bought were some LN-9000 tractors, 6-71, 238's, RT-910 Road Rangers. They typically pulled short pups and replaced mostly 9000 Whites-which were nice trucks but they were powered by V-185 Cummins V-8s that were a disaster. Drivers loved those Fords!

I'm with you as far as AS, I'll wait for it. RIDE OR DIE!!!! ?

Theres a good YouTube video showing the steering wheel change. Was really only 15 minutes once the tools were gathered. 15/16 on a wratchet, long skinny Allen wrench to push in and release the airbag retainer clips, and I think a 10mm to disconnect the batteries is all that's needed. New wheel comes with a light grey trim and I removed it and reinstalled the black trim from my wheel

I got to see the '22 over the weekend at the auto show, and the updates looked great. The new back end is definitely more refined looking - they nicely had the '21 on the floor on a diagonal from the "pedestaled" '22, so it made for a good back and forth look at both simultaneously. I think Automotive News' timeline is off, but they're claiming a new Navigator is arriving for '23, while they had a new Expy for '24. To me, this could be 3 things - 1) a year off, and both are '24, 2) a "straddle" debut like '15 Edge and '16 MKX were in that Edge came out in '15, and MKX was only a few months later but made a '16, or 3) means Navi comes a complete year earlier than Expy, which also explains why Navigator's refresh was more mild compared to Expedition, with it's replacement sooner on the horizon. On a related note, also saw the '22 Expy, and the interior looked much better and more appropriate for the vehicle compared to a mostly direct copy from regular F-150s the 18-21 has.

Got them mounted yesterday. No doubt the old setup was more aggressive looking but these should be way easier to live with. I'll probably keep the old ones in case I want to use them for car shows or something.

I also just picked up a set of General Grabber X3 tires in size LT295/70R17. As you can see they are nearly the same overall size as the old Wild Country 35x12.50/15's on the Bronco now which is interesting since the 295's are listed as 33.3" in diameter and that's pretty darn close to the actual measurement of the old so called 35's. I'm doing this for a couple of reasons. First is the safety aspect. The tires that are on it now are at least 18 years old as they were on the truck when I bought it in 2003. While they show no signs of checking or dry rotting I still don't trust them. My other goal here is to get the tires inside the fender flares, especially on the front. While it may look cool the tires throw all kinds of crap up the side of the truck plus it is not exactly legal in PA for them to be outside the body. However, there is a limit to how much more back spacing I can get away with since the tires will rub the radius arms and limit the turning radius if I go too far. The other thing is that the inside edges of the current 15x10" wheels are almost touching the tie rod ends which means that even if I had a different set of 15" wheels with more back spacing they would not fit due to interference with the tie rod ends and the 17" wheels should also solve that problem. I'm still trying to decide on which 17" wheel I prefer. So far I've looked at the Pro Comp 69 Series Vintage in 17x9 and the T-Series 17x 8.5 wheel from 4 Wheel Parts. I like both styles. The Pro Comp is obviously more period correct but the 4WP has the bronze center which would go well with the color of the soft top. Both wheels have the same 4.75" back spacing. Pro Comp 69 Series Vintage 4WP T-Series

While it would be nice to see the dividend return (and that, by itself, likely would boost the value of Ford stock at least a little), right now, I think I would prefer Ford forego resuming paying a dividend and, instead, put that money into a focused, rigorous effort to improve the quality/reliability of the Ford and Lincoln products currently being produced (including Sync system software updates that, at times, have been "buggy"). Make no mistake, I, too, would like to see the dividend return, but I think the long-term interests of Ford Motor Company would be served better by improving Ford's somewhat-shaky reputation for quality/reliability.

Received the antique plate for the Bronco today in the mail.

The two-door Bronco that Ford had on display at Carlisle this past weekend had a set of running boards. That might be something that could be modified to fit the original Broncos and would look better than some of the pipe options IMO. Here's a super nice early model that was also at the show. This one had the James Duff rock sliders which I also like.

I finally got around to putting a timing light on it. Before that I decided to make a piston stop so I could verify that the timing marks on the crank balancer were correct. They were off by about 4°. The stop is made from an old Autolite spark plug. I removed the guts and then tapped it for 3/8-24 threads and installed a long bolt. The way it works is that you pull the plug for No. 1 cylinder, install the stop and turn the engine over by hand until the piston bumps against the bolt, then mark where the pointer is on the balancer. You then turn the crank in the opposite direction until it hits the stop again, then mark that spot as well. You then measure the distance between the marks, divide in half and mark the balancer at the midway point. That is TDC (Top Dead Center). Once I had that established I could see that the timing was about 4° retarded which explains why it was running a little warm. I reset the timing to about 6° BTDC with the vacuum unplugged from the vacuum advance canister on the distributor. What you see in the photo is about what you would see with the timing light at idle after the vacuum is reconnected to the distributor. After all that it now starts immediately, idles at 180° and no longer tries to diesel when I turn off the ignition. That had more to do with the idle adjustment on the carb being set too high but it wouldn't idle at a lower setting until I got the timing set correctly. What causes an engine to "diesel", or try to run backwards when you shut off the ignition is usually some carbon deposits in the combustion chambers along with a slightly open throttle. An IC engine can't run without air, fuel and spark. However, if there are hot spots in the combustion chambers they will act as the spark even after the ignition is off and the engine will try to run in reverse if it has enough air and fuel which makes it critical that the throttle adjustment is set as low as possible at idle. Back in the early days of emissions tuning the manufacturers set the timing and carb adjustments for lower emissions and would install a throttle solenoid switch which would hold the throttle slightly open so that the engine could idle but when the ignition was turned off it would retract and allow the throttle blades to close completely and thus prevent "dieseling". I've been running it around on the property quite a bit just trying to get all the bugs worked out. Next up will be to get it registered and inspected so I can put some real miles on it. After I hosed off some of the mud I couldn't resist making another short video.

The building is 40ft x 50ft x 14ft at the sidewall eaves. It came from Olympia Steel Buildings in McKees Rocks, PA. I got a helluva deal on it when I bought it back in 2016. I paid $12,900 for the kit but that didn't include windows or doors but it did include the metal framing for all of those. That price also included shipping and PA sales tax but did not include erection. For that I hired a local Amish crew who also helped with pouring the concrete floor. I installed the doors and windows myself and designed and built the office and overhead storage loft myself with a lot of help from AutoCad and the loader bucket on the Kubota. I also modified the design by adding a block foundation which I laid myself. These typically sit on a concrete slab. The Kubota also did all of the landscaping which included tree stump removal and digging footers, floor drain ditches, etc. The inside photo is not long after I finished the loft and before I wired the building for electricity. The loft is on the end closest to the house and is pretty much full of junk now. ?

Finally got around to firing up the Bronco again after the latest round of changes. Temp gauge held steady at just below 180° after about ten minutes of idling and driving around the lot. The steering also works like it's supposed to now after repositioning the idler arm.

It occurred to me yesterday that there was no wiring diagram or instructions for how to wire the electric cooling fan. I thought I had it figured out based on normal use of colors but I thought I had also seen some wiring instructions in the description of one of the dozen or so listings for this radiator on eBay. I also did an internet search and came up with a wiring diagram that was similar to the instructions I found on the other eBay listing. Amazingly after following all that it actually works. I did have to add an extension to the ground wire on the fan motor and I removed an extra metal eyelet on the wire between the relay and the thermostat switch on the intake manifold. My starter solenoid is going to go on strike if I add any more wire connections to it. Between the LED light bar, the electric choke on the carb and the cooling fan it's getting awfully busy around there.

In FedEx' defense there is a pretty steep grade at the end of my lane where it intersects the highway. If your vehicle isn't at least AWD there are days when you ain't climbing that hill. Anyway, they did deliver the package to the Dollar General yesterday as I had requested but no one ever called to tell me it was there which I had also asked them to do. I called the store around 1 PM and they confirmed that it was already there. When I picked it up the cashier had no clue how to deal with it so I gave her the tracking number and said it was probably the large box right behind her. After verifying the tracking number she pushed it back where she found it. I had to then tell her that I needed to take it with me. I asked her if she needed to see any ID and she said that wasn't necessary. Whatever. Funny thing is I was wearing a mask anyway. When I checked FedEx tracking today it said the package was out for delivery and would be at the Dollar General today. I would assume the driver should have scanned the bar code when he dropped it off at the store yesterday and you would think FedEx would require that the store scan it again when the customer (me) picked it up. ? If I was like some people I could probably claim I never received it and ask for a refund. I haven't permanently installed the radiator yet but I did do a trial fit yesterday and was surprised to find that there was an interference between the electric fan's shaft and the water pump pulley. I fixed that by modifying the mounting brackets so that the radiator is closer to the core support. I suppose some of that could be attributed to the 2" body lift but you would hope that the radiator manufacturer would know their product well enough to account for vehicle mods that are fairly common. Then again I don't suppose there are too many old Broncos running around on the streets of China let alone any with a 2" body lift.

I just happen to have an extra push bar that is the same as the one I have on my F-150. There is an LED light bar that mounts in it as well. All I would need to mount it on the Bronco are some brackets to attach it to the frame rails, which I can make. Yes, no?

Thanks tbone. I need all the encouragement I can get. And thank God for small victories. After fooling around with the doggone horn off and on for days I finally got it working again. As I mentioned before, I had ordered a new horn button for the steering wheel. I did that because I was able to get the horn to blow at least once by touching the two wires inside the steering column together which told me the horn itself was not the problem, or so I thought. The new horn button came today so I installed it and .......nothing. WTH? I took the wheel back off and touched those same two wires together again and....silence. So I ran a jumper wire from the battery to the hot side of the horn and, again, nothing. Next I grabbed a new horn that I bought for the '70 Mach 1 that was still in the box and checked the resistance across both horns with a multi-meter. BINGO! The old horn showed zero resistance while new one read about 14 OHMs. After installing the new horn and the steering wheel with the new button the horn works like it's supposed to. That should be the final item I need for PA state inspection, although I do plan to disassemble both front hubs and re-grease the wheel bearings.

I've kept just about all of the receipts for parts (I think) but I couldn't even begin to guess the amount of time I have spent on it. To be fair I would need to include all of the costs incurred on this years ago when I did the drivetrain and suspension changes, among other things. Bottom line though is doing this kind of stuff truly is one of my favorite hobbies and if I kept track of all the expenses I would probably be disappointed in the end result and that is not the goal. I have friends who started out building project cars for their own use but eventually started building them just to sell and make a profit. Just my personal opinion but at that point it would become too much of a business (i.e. job) and would no longer be as enjoyable for me. Don't get me wrong, I'm also not into spending (or wasting) unlimited amounts of money that I don't have anyway. One of the things I enjoy most about these projects is finding the parts I want for the best price. Sometimes you have to put some sweat equity into making them useable but for me that's a big part of the fun. The roll bar is a perfect example of that . I got it as part of the deal when I bought my '70 Mach 1. I have spent an ungodly amount of time cutting it down and cleaning it up. I could have just bought a brand new rollbar and bolted it in but would not have gotten the same satisfaction. BTW, that storm that came through here yesterday dropped 21" of snow in about 14 hours.

Today's task: Paint the rollbar. Once I get the rollbar installed I can put the soft top back on which gets it off the hood. Then I can install those Duff's hood struts. Better than having to drive anywhere in this snowstorm. Getting about an inch per hour. About 8" on the ground so far...I have a feeling most of tomorrow will be spent plowing myself out. I live about 1/4 mile from the highway on a gravel road and I'm the only one who plows that road.

I installed one of the F-150 door checks on the passenger side door. Works like a charm! I now have three open positions and it even closes properly.

I decided to try a different design for the "rock sliders" or "nerf bars". I initially planned to use the ones from Wild Horses but decided instead to go with this set from Aries. I still like the look of the WH design better but sometimes looks aren't everything. The biggest issue is that the WH bars are not designed to be used as steps. I assume that is because they attach to the sheet metal of the rocker panels. The Aries design is made from 3" powder coated pipe and attach directly to the frame rails. They are also a direct bolt on and do not require drilling any holes in the body. It also doesn't hurt that they are less than one third the price of the WH design. I may lose a little ground clearance but there aren't many places to go rock crawling around here anyway. The Bronco has a 3.5" suspension lift, 2" body lift and sits on 35" tires meaning it would be great to have something I can actually step on besides a step ladder to help me get into it. I must be getting old. ?

Sprayed the clear on the passenger door today.

Sprayed the color on the passenger side door today. Will have to wait for a clear day with low humidity before I can spray the clear. Also painted the inside of both doors satin black a few days ago.

Started adding a little color today. I'm spraying the quarter panels and passenger door off the vehicle. I'm not confident enough to risk spraying those large vertical surfaces while on the vehicle. By laying them flat I'm not fighting gravity as much and way less likely to get sags and runs. I mounted the passenger side quarter panel back on the Bronco temporarily since that is the safest place to keep it. So far I've done the base coat on both quarters, both door jams and both rocker panels. The passenger side door and top half of the tailgate will get color next and then I can start spraying the clear, shiny stuff. In case you haven't figured it out yet, this is definitely a low buck, do it yourself operation. ?

I did a trial fit of the soft top this morning. Man, that thing is a bear to stretch over the frame and get snapped into place, especially by yourself and on a cold day. Fortunately, the bow mounting brackets are slotted so you can release some of the tension. Hopefully we will get a warm day or two and it will stretch out even more. The perimeter of the cover has hard plastic flaps sewn into it that roll under and into grooves in the metal frame. Surprisingly there are only eight actual snaps and two of those are at the outside top corners of the windshield frame. I still need to drill holes for those snaps which is one of the reasons I wanted to install the top so I could mark where those holes need to be. It also looks like the top pulled the windshield into better alignment with the door frames which should mean a lot less wind noise and potential for water leaks. Now if the wrinkles in the plastic windows would just go away. Not holding my breath on that one though. They are all held in place by zippers so they are removable.

The new door hinges for the driver side came yesterday. After literally hours of adjusting and adding and subtracting shims, etc. I finally settled on this. The gaps are pretty uniform. Not perfect but okay. Both fenders have been moved back by about 3/16" which really helped. One of the issues that I really struggled with was getting the door to latch properly and not drop when opened while still maintaining all the gaps. I'm still waiting on the new passenger side door hinges plus some other hardware. After that door is done next up will be the alignment, or should I say realignment, of the hood.

Amen to the first part. I haven't decided how I'm going to paint it just yet but with the way I have attached the quarter panels I can unbolt them just like the fenders so I will have the option of removing them along with the doors and tailgate for painting. The only reason I would not do that is that it is really easy to nick the paint with all that handling. However, doing it that way would eliminate a ton of masking. I may decide to not paint the fenders and hood as they are more than good enough for what will be mostly a driver and only occasional show/cruise-in vehicle. Fuzzy I have to believe modern day body tolerances and assembly equipment and techniques are vastly improved over what they were 50 years ago but it must still be a tedious job. Early Bronco bodies are cool looking but still very crude. It was just a utility vehicle after all. What's really sad is that the metal they used back then was actually formulated such that it promoted rust. The manufacturers didn't do it intentionally. They just didn't know any better. Speaking of which, here is an episode of an outdoor TV show that is filmed in my area. In this episode they are restoring an Early Bronco to use in a raffle to raise money for elk conservation in Pennsylvania. I actually saw the finished Bronco in person at SEMA of all places. Small world. Yeah, the show is kinda folksy but the guy from Dynacorn gives a pretty good explanation of the rust issues on vehicles of this age. It starts at around the 19:10 mark. The restoration shop is about 30 miles from me and the Bronco they used was found on a farm about 10 miles from me. BTW, this episode is also where I found out about the wheels that I bought for my '70 Mach 1.

Sounds like a terrible life you have there, lol. The “choice words” help every project go smoother. I do like the rock guards.

Thanks. Be careful what you ask for. LOL I started doing a little more trial fitting over the past few days. I now have the driver side quarter on and removed the green passenger side door and replaced it with this red one. It may look worse right now but believe me, it is in way better condition. The green door was even dented on the inside! I also cut out the opening and fitted the taillight on the passenger side quarter panel. When I found this roll bar it had a bunch of extra tubes added to it to make a full roll cage. It wasn't all that well done. I cut most of that trash off and used it to make a cage for my 4x4 Kubota tractor. I believe this is an original Bronco sport bar which may have been a factory option. Lots of folks will argue that Ford never offered such an option and maybe that's true but I seem to recall otherwise. Anyway, the diagonal bars and the bottom bar were part of the add-ons but I decided to leave those as they are. They may hinder access to the rear seat a little but you would have to be an acrobat to get back there anyway. I'm actually leaning towards leaving the rear seat out. The extra cargo space is more valuable.