Gosh, maybe they should name it Ranchero! 😀

To the best of my knowledge all of Ford's PPOB are bonded neutral and there is not a way to change that. Some people cut off the ground prong of the plug but that is not code compliant or safe. I'm not an expert on portable gas generators but I think many (most?) can be changed from bonded neutral to non-bonded and vice-versa. Owner's manual explains how.   Here is another video that describes a method to make your entire main panel a sub-panel that is safe and code compliant. This allows you to pick and choose any circuits you want to operate as long as you do not exceed the power capability of your generator. I hope to pursue this approach when I get a Ranger PHEV with PPOB. 🤞   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLwr0MWOG1g

MotorWeek test drive of new Nissan Leaf.  Tested vehicle close to $40k so not most affordable.   https://motorweek.org/first-impressions/first-drives/2026-nissan-leaf/  

In related news the new Nissan Leaf was made available for test drives, and Electric article mentions both 1500 W interior outlets plus available adaptor providing up to 3.45 kW.   https://electrek.co/2025/09/12/2026-nissan-leaf-3rd-generation-first-drive-impressions-dont-you-dare-call-it-a-hatchback/      

Thanks for information.  If correct, it’s interesting that some PPO are bonded and others (base unit) not according to video if I heard it correctly.  Seems odd to me that Ford would not be consistent on this.  For reference I just confirmed that my generator is not bonded, which may explain why it worked fine powering house for entire week.  Quick search suggested Honda and Yamaha are not bonded, while others are, apparently depending on power rating according to one source.  I’ll keep this information in mind should Ford ever offer Pro Power Onboard in a van in US.

This is very cool but very expensive and not what I was referring to.  I was talking about affordable or cheap systems, which obviously span a spectrum of options with different features.  I view this back-up power issue as having numerous options largely based on cost and intended use/requirement.  About the cheapest system I’m aware of is using a small portable generator which can cost as little as $500, and can be connected to a house’s panel manually.  AFAIK to meet code requires a lockout switch where the main breaker has to be off before the generator can feed the panel.  This is usually easy to install and relatively cheap.  Unfortunately most people I know don’t even do this, instead relying on just knowing they have to turn the main breaker off.  Obviously this causes concerns that generator can back-feed grid if home owner screws up and forgets to disconnect generator before turning main breaker back on.   Anyway, when using a portable generator that has to be connected and started manually during extended outages, there’s little point in having an automated transfer switch, right?  In my opinion a sub-panel with transfer switch is overkill for this scenario.  However, if the back-up power supply is a generator that starts itself automatically, like a Generac, or a battery system which includes an inverter/charger with transfer switch, then a sub-panel makes a lot of sense in order to reduce the portion of the house’s power requirement that will automatically transfer over to inverter.   The Ford Pro Power Onboard we were discussing does not have enough capacity to power an entire house, so if connected manually during emergencies (just like a portable generator would be), the home owner could limit loads manually by turning off all breakers for non essential loads.  In my case with portable generator (approximately same power rating as basic PPO) I turn off all 240V circuits and leave all 120V circuits active so I have lights available in any room I walk into, and also fridge, alarm system, internet, TVs, and fans.  I figure that as long as I don’t turn them on, it doesn’t hurt for everything to be connected to generator.  As long as I’m controlling everything manually I can use my judgement to limit loads.   Automation changes everything when trying to keep system affordable (cheap) because the house could be using far more power at time grid goes down, and an auto transfer switch could easily lead to overloading the backup power supply.  That was the context of my comment about advantage of permanently wiring in a small sub panel that limits connections to only critical circuits.  Below is screenshot of Generac panel used as example in video Texasota linked.  There are other ways to shed non-critical loads but are more complex and expensive IMO.  To be clear I’m not endorsing Generac generators or equipment, only used as example because they are popular in my area, though not as common as portable generators.  

The Escape/Corsair is nothing more then a C2 variant that could be filled partially or 3/4 of the way with the Bronco Sport or maybe a LWB model.    I see the CE1 as a hedge product-it will supplement the current C2 products if/when the market accepts EVs. I have this feeling that the EV pickup they are doing is going to be more of a crossover with a bed then a truck like the Maverick is. I also have a feeling ford will also keep offering to subsidize home installations of charging like they are currently doing with it.    The rest of the core lineup is already in production and just needs updates/new Electrified powertrains  

Took your advice and called a different dealer this past Wednesday.  My order for a 2026 F450 was placed and confirmed yesterday.  Amazing difference between the two dealerships.  

The only question here should be, is Ford going to build in in Mexico or import it from Asia? 

It shouldn't be seen as a replacement for the Escape. It's more accurately positioned as an alternative to the Edge marking in developing regions.